Mustang to Mopar

[bbwake]

I have been a Mustang guy for most of my 48 years but my 9 year old son loves Mopars. I found a deal on a 1973 Challenger and I bought it as a project with my son. I've gotten rid of the Mustangs and now my focus is on the Challenger. We have pulled the 318 and we are going back in with a 440. I'm going to need lots of advice on how to build a streetable performance engine so I hope you guys can help me.

[bbwake]

I am new to the Mopar family. I have been a ford guy for most of my life but my 9 year old son convinced me to buy a 1973 Challenger. Three weeks after buying the car we went to the Mopar Nationals. So I have been converted. We are pulling the 318 out and I have bought a 1977 440 to put back in. I need some advice on a streetable performance rebuild on a modest budget. The block has the original (60,000 miles) bore with the 452 heads. I would like to bump up the compression, upgrade the cam and keep the low end torque. Any suggestions on cams, head work, parts to use, or what I should and shouldn't do would be appreciated.

[70AARCuda]

just a note ..you will need a 727 that fits a big block and long with the correct converter....and drive shaft will have to be shorten ...trans yoke from 318/904 does not fit either...

[rampage_82]

I would suggest the KB hyper pistons.. such as http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

There are many camshafts available that will get you worlds of power. However one thing to note about the 440's. They will make a lot of low end power naturally so don't worry so much about "over-camming" it. I've seen the Mopar 509 cam pull like hell from 2,000 til almost 6,000.

The 452 heads will work fine for what you are wanting, however the more work and money you put into them, the closer you will get to the cost of Stealth / Edlebrock heads. I would however suggest some bowl work and the bigger valves I.E. 2.18 x 1.84's. Believe me the power is made in the heads, unfortunately I have to run factory casting heads (class rule), but I could have had some killer aftermarket heads with work done to them, for what I have in my 906 heads.

Other things I know will help dramatically are as follows. The Eddy Performer RPM intake, or a smaller type single plane work great on 440's. Exhaust work, headers, 3" w/ crossover tube, and any high flow muffler combo, anything to let it breathe. Also don't skimp on the ignition, people swear by the FBO systems, I personally like any of the CD ignition systems, Mallory , MSD, Jacobs, etc. I've had soo many problems out of the stock systems over the years, I will never run another one.

Case in point I have a 1988 ramcharger, with a 440. The motor is a stock rebuild, with the exception of some mild head work and the MP 4452783 cam. The carb is a Eddy 750, with headman headers, 3" pipes, and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. When I got it it had the stock intake, and stock ignition. The truck was an absolute gutless pig. I put three stock distributors, the one that was on it, the second was a reman Checker, the third I went in and checked out on our distributor machine. I changed wires, coils, ignition boxes, caps, rotors, absolutely nothing worked. It was hard to start, wouldn't idle, and would backfire through the carb and exhaust, sputter, and you couldn't make it rev past 3,900 in gear.

I got sick of it all, and I went with a MSD 6a box, and a Procomp Billet distributor, and while I was at it I threw on an Eddy Torker 2 manifold. Now the truck runs like it has EFI compared to what it was before. You can touch the key and instant startup, and no bobbles through the entire rpm range... I really couldn't be any happier with it.

Now this isn't the first truck I've had these issues with, I am just one of those that cannot get along with stock ignitions. I've run aftermarket boxes with stock distributors, and still have had nothing but problems, but I switch to aftermarket ...well everything, and no more problems.

Ok so to get off my soap box now, there is my .02.

Now watch there will be 50 posts saying how great the stock ignition system is, and you won't get any of your questions answered.

[BigBlockDude]

Originally Posted by bbwake

I am new to the Mopar family. I have been a ford guy for most of my life but my 9 year old son convinced me to buy a 1973 Challenger. Three weeks after buying the car we went to the Mopar Nationals. So I have been converted. We are pulling the 318 out and I have bought a 1977 440 to put back in. I need some advice on a streetable performance rebuild on a modest budget. The block has the original (60,000 miles) bore with the 452 heads. I would like to bump up the compression, upgrade the cam and keep the low end torque. Any suggestions on cams, head work, parts to use, or what I should and shouldn't do would be appreciated.

I went with speed pro forged in my 73 440 block and ended up with about 9.4 to 1. I'm sure keith blacks would be fine too, and they are less expensive.
I also have a Hughes Engines 2832bl camshaft in my Coronet. It makes TON'S of low end torque and has awesome response with the stock torque converter. With dual quads and 3.23s and crappy tires it ran 13.62 with hp exhaust manifolds. Also went with an MSD and dist, there is nothing better IMO.
I would keep the cam in the 224 to 234 @ 50 range to retain awesome torque and response. Hughes, Comp, and Lunati make some good grinds.
I agree on the Performer RPM. Also bigger valves, since it will most likely need new ones. And a little pocket porting would be nice. Thats can be a do it yourself job if you have any mechanical ability and a grinder.
Ok, you'll get a million different opinions, but I know what worked for me.

[bobr]

Originally Posted by bbwake

I have been a Mustang guy for most of my 48 years but my 9 year old son loves Mopars. I found a deal on a 1973 Challenger and I bought it as a project with my son. I've gotten rid of the Mustangs and now my focus is on the Challenger. We have pulled the 318 and we are going back in with a 440. I'm going to need lots of advice on how to build a streetable performance engine so I hope you guys can help me.

I went the opposite way for my racing. Still have my Challenger, though.

[Ray Bell]

You should already have a 727 behind the 318. If it's not a manual, of course...

If it's a 727, then you need a big block version. If it's a manual, you need to get a big block bellhousing. In both cases it should have the right driveshaft and yoke already.

[BigBlockDude]

Originally Posted by Ray Bell

You should already have a 727 behind the 318. If it's not a manual, of course...

Huh? From what I've seen most had 904's.

[Ray Bell]

That surprises me... I thought the Challenger would only have the longer tranny, which is the 727.

I could, of course, be wrong, but all the manuals are the longer one.

[ehostler]

The 318 should have a 904. The 360 may have a 727.

[Century Cp Guru]

73 ebody with 318 definelty a 904 unless some body swapped it still he needs a BB case.

[ehostler]

when going to a 440, don't forget to install larger torsion bars.

[pcrmike]

You got a real car now, buddy. Nice. :-) PCRMike

[valiant64]

bbwake, welcome to the board & good luck with the Challenger!

[valiant64]

Building a strong 440 for cheap is pretty easy. The compression on the later 440's like your 77' is pretty low. The compression needs to be up to @ least 9.0:1 or so depending on cam selection. Since you mentioned that the build will be done on a modest budget, I assume you will be sticking with a hydraulic cam for use with the stock valve gear. What are your plans for the car? Daily driver street car? Street/strip? Strip only? Also more specifics are needed on the car itself, such as rear gear ratio, converter stall speed, etc.

[bbwake]

The car will be a weekend driver. I want it to look good, sound good and run strong but my drag racing days are in the past.

[bbwake]

The car will be a weekend driver. I want it to look good, sound good and run strong but my drag racing days are long gone.

[rumblefish360]

Run a split duration cam of approx. 8* - 10* to help the cruddy exhaust side.

[70Ted]

Originally Posted by Ray Bell

You should already have a 727 behind the 318. If it's not a manual, of course...

If it's a 727, then you need a big block version. If it's a manual, you need to get a big block bellhousing. In both cases it should have the right driveshaft and yoke already.

nope, if its stock its a 904

[jams002]

oh you get you're car now so congrats to enjoy you're new car, new rides!!good luck

[jams002]

oh you get you're car now so congrats to enjoy you're new car, new rides!!good luck