73 Satellite Engine Rebuild

[oldsatellite73]

Hello, My name is Donald. I am seeking advice and ideas. I am doing an engine build, strictly old school.

The engine in question is the Numbers matching 318 with A904 Transmission which came in the car.

So far I have disassembled and cleaned all parts. Had the block dipped and checked for cracks. Bored .30 over due to a head gasket leak into the #3 cylinder which sat for years. New brass freeze plugs. Crank polished and connecting rods checked/sized and peened. New TRW flat top pistons with double valve reliefs. New cam and main bearings. Standard heads, valve seats cleaned up, new bronze valve guides, a three angle valve job and new springs. Intake ports opened up for better flow but not matched to any particular intake, just the gasket. Upgraded the cam, i.e. Comp Cams XE262H-10. New Mellig HD oil pump. Had the entire assembly balanced as a unit.

Parts which have been given to me are as follows: Edelbrock S.P.2.P.-318 4 bbl intake. Edelbrock 1406 performer series carb. with electric choke. Edelbrock chrome valve covers. Stock Chrysler electronic ignition system for 1973-74. I have the stock exhaust manifolds which will allow me to order Head pipes from tti and install a dual exhaust, or have a dual exhaust with H-pipe made at a local shop.

My birthday present this year included a pulley conversion kit from Bouchillon Performance which allows me to bypas the A/C system and remove excess weight. The A/C system components are now in storage for future consideration.

I would like to improve the performace/durability of this engine with components which can easily be purchased from local stores and suppliers in my immediate area. I am asking for suggestions and advice concerning any do it yourself improvements which can make minor horsepower gains, and do not jepordize long term use. Things such as distributor advance springs, carb. spacers, windage tray, porting, oiling and gasket matching, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

I AM NOT PLANNING TO RACE THIS CAR NOW OR IN THE FUTURE. I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AS STOCK LOOKING AS POSSIBLE. It has become the Street Machine I always wanted during my teenage years growing up.

P.S. I have been given a vintage set of hood pins with lanyards (still in the original mopar box) this could get interesting in the future.

By the way! I am the total computer idiot. It has taken me weeks to get this far. If anyone wants to see a Picture, you will have to walk me through the process. I have tried it the site way, with no luck. I am a photobucket.com subscriber and would gratefully accept any and all help with this part of posting.

Thanks in advace for any and all help....

[Century Cp Guru]

Sounds like you have done all right on your parts selection to me.welcome and have a goodtime.

[passing you]

windage tray, valley baffle, loose the sp2p intake for a performer or action plus and go with a small solid cam, if those are the heavy trw's then return them and get KB 9.5 comp hypers [they weigh a lot less].

Take the 1 heavy advance spring out of the ditributor and leave the lite one, that speed the advance curve.

[BigBlockDude]

Originally Posted by passing you

windage tray, valley baffle, loose the sp2p intake for a performer or action plus and go with a small solid cam, if those are the heavy trw's then return them and get KB 9.5 comp hypers [they weigh a lot less].

Take the 1 heavy advance spring out of the ditributor and leave the lite one, that speed the advance curve.

You obviously are not going to buy new pistons and rebalance it, since thats done. And for what you want, what you have is just fine. Also, I think the cam you already have chosen sounds good too.
Adding a solid cam includes buying adjustable rockers and correct push rods. Which doesn't really make sense for your build anyway.
I do agree on getting a better intake. And a windage tray can't hurt.
You have to watch when changing springs in the distributor. I have found that the single soft spring can bring in total advance too soon, doing so has caused surging at cruising speeds because of too much advance with the addition of vacuum advance.

Blocking the heat crossover in the intake is a good idea to keep the carb and incoming air/fuel cooler. Also I've found the electric choke version of the 600 Edelbrocks are jetted pretty lean. I would set it up with the same jetting as the manual choke version to start out.
My 2 cents.

[TK]

If your running the stock heads, keep the SP2P! Not my choice in cams, but hey, it'll make smoke! With the SP2P manifold, jet the secondaries up two sizes before you fire it, the little ports use more fuel than bigger ports on the 318, it's a velocity thing I guess. (Dual port is a real tricky tune)
As for any guff on the pistons, don't listen, I have a set of TRW forgies I bought in 94, been in three different motors, wore out two .030 bores, and still work great, the only reason they aren't in my truck now is because it's a 390.... I 'd like to see a set of the KB's last half as long. (Lightweight isn't everything)

And, last but not least, the action plus is a terrible manifold on a small chrysler, the worst running yet, even the stocker cast iron runs better! WAYYYYYY BETTER!

But it should be a great running little motor, with good vacuum and a smooth idle.

[valiant64]

The engine build sounds like a well thought out combo for a nice reliable cruiser. The SP2P intake is an old economy intake, and while the runners are sized for the small 318 head ports, the intake is not a good choice for even a mild performance engine. It would be better suited on a bone-stock engine in a very heavy vehicle such as a truck or rv. The Edelbrock Performer would probably be the best intake for you. Headers with 1 5/8" tubes & a 2 1/2"-3" collector with dual 2 1/2" exhaust w/ "H" or "X" pipe would be good. Run the 1406 carb as is first, I seriously doubt it will be too lean for your 318. Consider upgrading the ignition box to either the orange or chrome box, or maybe consider looking into the MSD 6A box. You dont want or need a really quick advance curve in such a heavy car with presumably high rear gears and stock converter. A good rear gear for cruising depending on rear tire diameter would be in the 3.55 to 3.91 range for city & highway driving. The stock converter should work ok with this combo, but give some of the converter mfrs. a call & see what they have to offer. Have fun.

[dodger1]

I like the shortblock you have already built - probably last longer than you or I as a mild street cruiser. I might send the distributor to FBO Systems (http://www.4secondsflat.com/ ) along with your engine/gearing specs - lots of folks here are very happy with their work and it is completely stock appearing. (I intend to do just that with my 360 dist. this spring) Smallblock heads mostly like to have the exhaust side opened up a bit, headers help a lot here, although they are a bit of a p.i.t.a. If I do replace my Hedman headers they'll be TTI products for sure. Pricey but fit right. I'd be tempted to work with the carb and intake you already have - that's the easy bit. Keep us posted on how it works. Enjoy! (I wish I still had the 73 Satellite my roomie wrecked )

[TK]

Keep the SP2P, you will like the low end torque, and thats exactly what you are building, a low end torque motor.

[valiant64]

If your choice of intakes is between using the SP2P or nothing, then in that case the choice is obvious. To reiterate what I've stated in my earlier post, the SP2P intake was and is intended for stock engines for emissions & economy purposes, period. This intake has both a very small runner size & plenum. The Performer intake will be a better all around intake choice if you decide to purchase another intake. Then you can put the SP2P to good use- As a museum piece to demonstrate yet another oddity from the early era of emissions friendly engine components, or preferably a doorstop or urinal. ;-D

[TK]

From someone who has ran one..................... the SP2P works great in mild performance engines, better, in a near stock 318, than the performer, bigger isn't always better. Mild engines, go hand in hand with Emissions and economy.

[valiant64]

I can gladly say I've never owned an SP2P, however I have driven vehicles "equipped" with this intake, and the "performance" from this intake on a dead-stock engine was less than impressive. I'm sure that even in the O.P.'s mildly modified 318 build, that this intake will be even more of a disappointment. I'm pretty sure if one were to call the folks at Edelbrock & ask to speak to one of their techs, they'd agree that the Performer intake would be a much better choice than the archaic & utterly useless SP2P. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY! ;-)

[Walkercolt]

OK, my "commercial" for the guys at Hughes Engines.com. They built a 390 stroker from my 5.2(318) Magnum and it was a jewel. Talk to Dale at Hughes. He won't lie to you, and you might not like what he says, but they have forgotten more about Mopars than most places ever knew. I'd suggest ditching the points distributor for an electronic unit(for relability) but that's not a must, if you maintain your points, condensor and rotor like we used to have to do. There are a number of better than stock harmonic balancer's out there, and that's a worthwhile purchase. You don't need a racing unit, just a good solid piece. Since it can't be seen, pitch the stock timing chain and gears, and upgrade to a premium set, money well spent IMHO. A windage tray will do no harm, and gain a few HP. I like Fel-Pro gaskets, but you may want to use steel OEM type head gaskets to keep your compression up a bit(if your pistons are down in the bores). What is recommended to use with the TRW's, I'd use. A Performer intake is a more modern design, but I can't say it will work better with your cam, pistons and carb from personal experience. Losing the old two-ton Air-Temp A/C compressor is great if you can live without A/C. There are kits to "hide" a new-type Sankyo compressor that uses much less power to turn. I think it's Legendary Air sells them. You aren't gonna make 400 or even 300 HP with your build, probably 200+/- is realistic, but it sounds durable, and should be better than stock. Best of luck on your project.

[DonCarr]

Just some ideas to throw in the mix.

Intake suggestion - old square bore cast iron 340 with carter/edelbrock carb. Should look the part and work well. Heavy car anyhow.

Heads - back cut valves - could be done with drill press and dremel + care
- blend the entire port with a dremel, narrow guide bosses + care
- polish the combustion side with dremel rounding all edges (protect seats with scrap valves) + care
- have machine shop mill the heads 40-60 thou, maybe more to get compression up 9.5-10:1 (get proper advice here, care with port alignment + distributer fit)

Oiling system - port the oiling system, pump too, even square shoulders where passages meet (requires long ball carbide), more holes in oil plate, big oil filter and larger diameter pickup tube. Apparently the stock pickup tube diameter negates the high volume pump.

Anyone know if the stock module can support an msd coil for a few extra revs + good cranking spark.

[oldsatellite73]

Well people, I took the car out of storage 2 days ago. Beautiful thing, started right up after charging the battery and priming the carb. Just a small bit of smoke on start up, and purred like a kitten once warmed.

It seems I may have told a smll lie. After reviewing all my grandfathers papers in the glove box, the engine had been replaced once at 22,319 miles. This was a warranty replacement (Chattanooga Dodge).

Since I forgot to provide the casting numbers earlier, here they are. The numbers on this engine are as follows: left front pad - M348R C7122184 (Mound Road?). The block casting number is - 2536030 318-9. Head casting number is - 2843675 (int. - 1.78 and exh. - 1.50). When the machine work was done only 10 thousands were taken off the block deck to clean up the surfaces. 5 thousands were taken off of the heads to clean the surfaces. The compression should still be from 8.2.1 to 8.8.1 (guessing). I did not have it zero decked to the pistons at the time.

Exhaust manifold casting numbers are: L/S - 2951916 and R/S - 2843953 (Stock).

My transmission is a A904 automatic equipped for light duty. The rear end is an 8 1/4 open carrier with the 271 tag still on it under the grease and grime.

Took the time to put the new tires and rims on her to see what it would look like. 15x8 aluminum slots on front with P235/70R15 WRL and 5x8 on the back with P255/70R15 WRL. Stance is really nice and looks sweet. Still have to get a 15 inch steel rim for the spare.

Finally scored the inner rear sail panels to replace the heat cracked old ones ($25.00 for the pair). The should arrive in the mail in a few days from California.

Don't know if the further information will help any, or is of any interest.

Thanks.... Donald

P.S. There is currently a 318 from a donor 1974 Satellite Wagon running in the car. The original engine mentioned above, is on the stand to be worked on.

[valiant64]

A shift kit from Transgo for your 904 trans would be a good upgrade. With the rear tire size being 255 70 15, that would put the diameter around 28" or so. I would suggest swapping the 2.71 rear gear to something between 3.55 to 3.91 to get the car moving quicker. If the rear diff doesn't already have a limited slip, these are available new or at the junkyard fairly cheap. The 318 exhaust manifolds are pretty restrictive compared to headers, so this would also be something to consider. Oil system mods with the exception of a windage tray aren't necessary for your build. The hi volume pumps use up more HP to operate than the standard pump which is adequate. If using the hi volume pump, always use it with the Mopar Performance or similar pump drive, don't use the stock drive as it WILL eventually shear off the tip of the dist drive with HV pumps.

[oldsatellite73]

It seems I may have told a small lie. After reviewing all my Grandfathers papers in the glove box, the engine had been replaced once at 22,319 miles. This was a warranty replacement (Chattanooga Dodge). All of the service papers are there. Even his hand written note book, with ideas and reasons for his sound system modification.

Since I forgot to mention them earlier, here are the casting numbers. The numbers on this engine are as follows: left front pad - M348R C7122184 (Mound Road?). The block casting number is - 2536030 318-9. Head casting number is - 2843675 (int. - 1.78 and exh. - 1.50). When the machine work was done only 10 thousands were taken off the block deck to clean up the surfaces. 5 thousands were taken off of the heads to clean the surfaces. The compression should still be about 8.6 to 1, maybe a bit higher (guessing). I did not have it zero decked to the pistons at the time.

Exhaust manifold casting numbers are: L/S - 2951916 and R/S - 2843953 (Stock). Even though I would like to remain as original as possible in the engine compartment, I am seriously considering a set of headers (always wanted a set).

[dodger1]

I recall reading about repro 340 HiPo cast exhaust manifolds recently (can't recall where, unfortunately) They would look pretty cool in there. Unfortunately the parts are quite spendy, which is probably why I didn't take note of the mfgr. But hey, they are out there if you want them.

[TK]

Don't use a big port manifold with the small port heads, it's killing what you are building it for.

[valiant64]

I wouldn't use an intake with the 340/360 size port with a 318 head either. The 340 exhaust manifolds would flow a bit better than the 318 exhaust manifold, but expect to pay as much or more for them as a good set of headers.

[oldsatellite73]

Time for another update. I have spent the last few days reading through the entire question and answer archives. You people do get around, very opinionated crowd here (ha! ha!). After reviewing everything that has been posted so far and all the messages I have been sent, here is what I am going to do.....

Using many of the parts I have: Keep the Sp2P intake and edelbrock carb in place of the original 2bbl iron intake with carb. Port and gasket match the intake to the heads (minimum only the intake side). Paint to match the engine, keeping stock looking appearance. Use the stock valve covers in place of the chrome edelbrock (stock look). An acceptable air cleaner is going to be a problem????

Use the mopar electronic ignition system without modification. Update this system with a Mopar Orange ignition box. Better plug wire set (to be determined).

Change out the stock exhaust manifolds for headers (brand to be determined). Dual exhaust (2 1/2 pipes) with H-pipe and dynomax mufflers. Forgivable modification????

Going to shelf the Air Conditioning for the time being (old school air for now, i.e. windows down and go faster).

While engine is out: Replace trans input seal (torque converter) and install shift kit (brand to be determined). Checking on a new torque converter (brand to be determined).

Convert to floor shift steering column (Harness should be interchangeable). Install floor shifter and new boot with trim ring. Has been suggested that a small guage cluster would be a nice addition (oil pressure, water temperature and apmerage). Has been suggested that a top dash mounted 3 inch tachometer would look good (am considering these options).

Replace existing 2.71 rear gears for 3.55 set. Limited slip rear end being considered (Money).

Put on new matching sport mirrors (painted black). Apply a 72 Roadrunner roof strobe stripe (semi-gloss black) without roadrunner symbol.

Install hood pin kit received as Christmas gift (cool look).

Rear sail panels have arrived and are being re-dyed to black so as to match interior for installation.

All Satellite and Sebring names are out for rechroming at this time to be put back on the car.

Looking for a Grant 3 spoke steering wheel to change the appearance (does not have to look like a tough wheel), Black or Brushed metal????

Remember people, the donar engine comming out is gouing to be rebuilt and kept on hand as a replacement (or not). This one can be buit better and stronge for the future.

I MAY NOT SEE HALLOWEEN IN THE UNITED STATES THIS YEAR. WE ARE ALREADY "ON ALERT AGAIN". GOT THIS WARNING LAST NIGHT FROM MY UNIT AFTER POSTING THE LAST UPDATE. WOULD LIKE TO GET THIS DONE AND BACK IN STORAGE BEFORE IT IS TO LATE....

P.S. Need suggestions on fabricating (or not) the transmision kickdown linkage and throttle parts to work on this car as is.

Thanks in advance....

Donald

[TK]

sounds good to me.

[valiant64]

The kickdown cable kit from Bouchillon performance or Mancini racing works great & is a snap to install. Best of luck on your car & to those of you serving our country.

[oldsatellite73]

This was a few days ago when the new tires and rims were put on and a fresh coat of wax after 2 1/2 years in storage... The interior is out, and i'm sewing it togeather all by myself (more pictures to come). Its slow work after going back to the job to make a living (ha! ha! ha!).

[DonCarr]

what a great looking car !

[dodger1]

Looking good! BTW, the Bouchillon k/d set-up allows you to use a cable operated kickdown. It works with any carb/manifold set-up - and uses the more common GM-style throttle lever found on most aftermarket carbs. Check their site for details. Lokar also has a very clean cable-operated set-up, but takes a little more fiddling to work correctly. (I have the Lokar) Do a search here for "cable operated kickdowns" and pay particular attention to John Kunkel's comments on adjusting the trans. k/d lever.

[oldsatellite73]

OK Gusy, Update time once again!!!

Took the long block out of storage (climate controled/oil cloth wrapped). It was full of mineral oil and is clean as a whistle insde (just as I left it), she turned over beauticfully. I will do a partial tear down and make sure it is ok before complete assembly.

Afer several PMs, considerable thought and a few headaches (deep thought and study).. ALRIGHT, ALREADY GUYS, I WILL USE HEADERS (Power Steerin Type) AND CHANGE THE INTAKE. I CAN AFFORD A NEW PERFORMER IN ABOUT 3-4 WEEKS (AFTER I SAVE-UP). FIGURED TO FINISH THE EXHAUST SYSTEM COURTESY OF SUMMIT PARTS (CHEAPER THAT WAY).

I am going shopping next weekend for the essentials. New radiator hoses, thermostat, heater hoses, clamps, plug wires, fluids, some spark plugs and such...

FIRST QUESTION: WHAT BRAND AND GRADE OF OIL WOULD YOU GUYS RECOMMEND TO FIRST LIGHT THIS BABY OFF AND USE REGULARLY???

SECOND QUESTION: Can you people recommend a start up procedure???

[DonCarr]

I'm thinking the intake you have is fine for unported heads, just wondering if a square bore carb fits? There are adapter plates to go from spread bore to square bore. (raises air cleaner a bit)

Anyone solve this ??

[valiant64]

Valvoline SAE 30w NON-DETERGENT oil. My machinist recommended it, so I've always used it & have had no problems with flattened cam lobes etc. Use this for the break-in oil only, then switch to any good quality detergent oil. A straight weight oil like 30w or a multi-grade like 10w40 would work well. Brand isn't that critical. Valvoline & Castrol are good oils as well as some of the synthetics out there. Break-in: Run engine @ high rpm (approx 2k or so rpm) for 20-30 mins. Occasionally rev the engine momentarily up to around 3k or so. The point of this is mainly to get the lifters spinning in the bores while breaking in the new cam & to get some oil splashing around inside the engine. When complete, drain break-in oil & replace oil filter. Refill with desired oil. Keep an eye on the oil level during the first 3k miles as it is normal for some oil loss during this time while the piston rings seat. As far as the old Ed sp2p intake it is flanged for square/spread bore apps.just as the Performer is.

[oldsatellite73]

Ok people, it seems I am working more towards, less horse power, and better functionality (at this stage).

Being that this SP2P-318 intake is aluminum and a 4 bbl, versus the original 2bbl iron intake (?) I get the feeling, that it is perfectly acceptable for what I am trying to accomplish. As I do not want to race this car or spin tires on pavement (STOP , I think keeping this intake may be a good idea (looks like a performer). Only difference I see is the 2 small 1/4 inch holes in the plenum floor (one on each side of the center divider). It seems to lean more towards the stock replacement (theme) I was reaching for. Just a bit of improvement without radically changing the car (fuel economy/power increase).

I would like to hear more of your thoughts and ideas concerning this intake????

It is an EGR version. Would blocking the EGR opening and the Heat Crossover be of any use in my quest for improvements. The Carb I have is an electric choke version and I cannot see a reson/need for the Heat Crossover.

Also would a small plastic crab spacer (1/2 - 1 inch) be of any use to prevent fuel evaporation/boiling??

Edelbrock makes a divided 1/4 inch thich gasket (heat disipation) with installation hardware that eliminates the need for any adapter to mount a square bore to a spreadbore manifold (SP2P).

I have also gotten hold of the (Edelbrock) Fuel line adapter kit and Throttle Lever part to make the modification on this carb for a 4 bbl installation in my car...

My thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice people..

Donald

P.S. HORSE POWER IS NOT EVERYTHING IN ALL CARS!!!!

[DonCarr]

Headers are not a huge gain for small camshafts. We put 2002 magnum manifolds on a 1970 Challenger. They were quite attracive after being sandblasted and coated with por15 exhaust manifold paint. They dump the exhaust near the firewall. Custom dual exhaust was bent on the cheap. Not sure how many custom benders are out there. This was just a cheap, non mandrel bend job.

Certainly good headers and a mandrel bent exhaust is better, maybe 20 HP - but expensive.

A home made x or H pipe system would likely be OK to save money?