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#1
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oil pan for a stroked 340
Help, I was about to buy a Milodon 30935 from Summit when I noticed the info mentioned it was not clearanced for anything more than a stock stroke. Does anyone know if this will clear a 4" stroke forged crank 340? I have this pan on my stock stroke motor and want to use one if possible on the stroker since I know it clears headers, etc. Any other brands, models suggestions are welcome too! thanks in advance for the help.
Bruce |
#2
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I seldom believe salesmen, so I called Milodon's tech guy, and he says the pan will clear the crank, just have to dimple the sides of the pan where it mounts to the block to clear the connecting rods if you use Eagle H beams, which of course I am, so issue solved I suppose, with a ball peen hammer. Seems to me if they know this, they oughta change the stamp that pounds them out so that dimpling wouldn't be necessary. Suppose the change would cost too much tho.
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#3
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cause the salesman spends 99 percent of his time selling sb chevy junk...has no clue what fits in a mopar...
i showed my neighbor how a 4 inch crank with scat i beams fit in a small block mopar with no grinding at all.... he was speechless... |
#4
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And if you are building an "A" body and using race headers you will need more than a dimple!!!
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#5
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#6
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Truth be told, there's enough "tolerance" in all the parts, the only sure way to tell if the oil pan will clear the H-beam rods is to try it and see. Same problem with headers. Everybody swears "they'll fit", but it depends on how accurately the tubes are bent, how good the jig for holding them is, and how the welder's feeling the day he made them. BTW, I think you'll love your stroker when it's done. The new HP's nice, but the tooooorrrque is the real great stuff!
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#7
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I have a 410 stroker sb w/milodon 8 qrt and the only thing I had to clearance was a lil dimple for one of the rear no.4 main studs, thats it.
The windage tray is a different story...... |
#8
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Oh and milodons don't clear the front k member lip very well on the passenger side, and headmans just barely touch on the driver side so I loped off 1 1/2 of the front pass corner welded a plate then opened a weld with a grinder hammered back together and welded it back up to clear the one tube on the drivers side.
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#9
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Will I have a problem using a windage tray on a 360 with a 4" Eagle crank? Simple modification or should I just leave it off?
Locke |
#10
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Locke
Hughes has a stud girdle for the 360 they claim works (as a scraper)better than the windage tray (in their tech articles). I'd look farther afield for an oil pan that actually fits! The milodon pan is a notoriously BAD FIT! |
#11
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AARRacer,
I have the 30935 on my stock stroke 340 with no clearance issues using TTI headers, however, I do take into account the variances just about everything is made with. Supposedly TTI headers dont need to be dinged to fit, but thanks to I think, TTI's variances, and the welding/setup of the jig when my K frame was welded for the idler arm, I have to ding the crap out of the #4 tube to clear the idler arm. On the new stroker motor, I will wait and see how the fit is, I will put the pan on and spin the motor over slowly and let the connecting rod bolts leave their marks on the pan where it needs clearancing, and then remove the pan and clearance however/wherever I see needs doing. I will let Milodon know I am unhappy if it requires a lot of work, but got my fingers crossed it wont be too much. This pan does require notching the k frame for the pan to clear the passenger side front of the sump on my A body Duster. But then again, variances can go the other way as well. I think I will use studs for the pan when mounting it as the first one I used the bolt holes did not line up well with the block. We will see how it all fits in my 68 fastback Barracuda. |
#12
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I have had another thought to bring up, many of the windage trays I have seen are for stock stroke smallblocks, I asked for how to mount one on a stroker motor using the stock main bolts with the threaded ends on them, and was told I could just use a longer stud than the original tray bolts and put an appropriately thick enough nut on it before mounting the tray to space the tray farther out to clear the rotating assembly. I suppose grade 8 bolts will be in order for this. I dont want to switch to the ARP studs to replace the original main bolts as the block has already been machined and I would think it wise to line hone/bore? the mains if switching to studs. Not sure on that one tho as I got away with it when building my buddy's stock stroke 360. I have the suspicion that the outboard edges of the tray will need to be trimmed to fit lower in the pan. Once again, I suppose I will see. Anyone else have a method for mounting a tray on a stroker?
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#13
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Quote:
If main bolts then.... good luck.lol |
#14
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Passing You,
I may not have been very clear in what I was describing. On the number 2 and 4 main, with stock bolts, the main bolts top has been tapped and threaded and accepts a bolt to mount the tray with no adjustment needed, but if you use the ARP main studs, they use studs as you described. I'm saying, I will use the original main bolts with longer studs instead of the original short bolts that came stock, so that I can adjust the height as you described. You described it better than I can. Seems easy for me to get tongue tied, if you can do that typing. LOL |
#15
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Let me throw this into the mix. The short block I have was built with standard main bolts so I would have to replace the bolts on #2 and #4 with the bolts that came with the windage tray, is this going to cause a problem? The engine has never been fired.
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#16
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Locke
This should not be a problem, but one should always check for/the clearance between the rotating parts and the windage tray! |
#17
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aarracer, I was under the impression that you need to line hone the mains if you change the bolts to studs due to a possible mis alignment after the change. I have got away with not line honing/or is it boring?, on my buddy's 360, but not sure if I want to try it on my own motor. LOL.
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#18
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You can change bolts to bolts and studs to studs but when changing from bolts to studs you need to line hone the mains with the studs installed to correct any cap misalignment.
You can change regular main bolts out for windage tray type bolts with no problems nor the need to line hone. |
#19
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bbeckwith, The all thread idea should work as long as the all threads are long enough and strong enough to not flex/bend around, cause they are skinny like the stock tray bolts.
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#20
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That thought has crossed my mind, I thought I would see if I can find something in a grade 8 bolt, thats long enough, and cut the end off and use it like a stud. would sure hate to see the carnage a loose tray could cause.
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#21
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arp studs for windage tray in 360 ...you can see how the smaller studs hang down for the tray...
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#22
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milodon windage tray....nut under tray and on top of tray...allows for tray to be adjusted ....
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#23
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A strong vote for all ARP fasteners in the "bottom end". Grade 8's aren't as strong as factory bolts on a 340. ARP can provide you with the proper studs and nuts and washers right off the shelf. They aren't cheap, but anything that loosens-up in the bottom-end when running leads to severe damage or total disaster in a fraction of a second. You also will need their own propietary assembly thread lubricant for the proper torque values. FYI: The newest Mopar engines(like my 4.7L) have one-use fasteners on con-rods, mains and many other places. There must be a good reason for this.
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#24
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Walkercolt, he was talking about grade 8 for the windage tray not main/rods.
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#25
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I'm having strong second thoughts on that idea now. I may just bite the bullet and tear it down and have the block line honed with ARP studs installed. I dont mind too awfully much, just wish I had thought of this predicament beforehand, now it means tearing it all apart, and hauling it back to the shop, and then washing out the block, again, before re-assembly. I think the oil control the tray provides is worth the effort.
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#26
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I have put together several motors without line honing using the ARP studs for windage tray. I thought the caps are sort of located lateraly by the steps on the ends into the block. I have had to cut the studs to fit in the oil pans and ARP still sends a nut for the rear stud under the oil pan that doesn't fit under the oil pump, I have told them about this a couple of times but they didn't get the idea but they did send a shorter nut with a washer built in.
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#27
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I did just that on my buddie's 360 when I assembled it for him, and no ill effects, but I'm leary of doing it to my own motor. LOL
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#28
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Easier to go with the mopar windage tray and bolt kit. With the ARP kit, the stud for the rear main above the oil pump is a bit of a oil pump/stud clearance issue that can take a bit of machining to overcome!
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#29
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Bought a kevco (Two now) one 340 and 0ne 360 pan, both fit with no mods.
$150 a pan with scrapers and oil doors off e-bay 7 qt pans... |
#30
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Quote:
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