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#1
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How do you install the big block valley pan that fits under the manifold, do you use 1 intake gasket, or two?? Also I do want to block off the exhaust heat cross over so do I just use a regular gasket to cover it up or should I use the little metal things that came with the pan and cover them up?? How exactly do you use thoughs things?? Thanks
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#2
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The valley pan is the only gasket you need, just put a thin coat of gasket sealer on it on a healthy bead of gasket sealer on the rail pans.
------------------ Check out http://www.donet.com/bemiller/ and let me know what you think!! |
#3
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Felpro, I believe, encloses 4 composit gaskets with their valley pan gasket. You sandwich the metal valley pan gasket between two of the composit gasket on either side - no silicon needed - none..... No mess - works like a champ !!!!!
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#4
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I'm with MopART. The Fel-Pro set up works great and has never given me any problems. I must say that using silicone sealer on intake gaskets on anyplace other than the end rails is a BAD idea! Gasoline naturally breaks down silicone sealer. If you like vacuum leaks and the tuning fun that comes with them, or if you just think changing intake gaskets is a fun way to spend every Saturday morning, then go ahead and use it. Personally, I don't want to spend the $17 for a new valley pan gasket set all the time.
------------------ ~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~ Elwenil.cjb.net DodgeChargerSE@aol.com 72 Charger SE |
#5
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As long as you clean up the head and intake surfaces you should have no need for any kind of sealer (except maybe a wee little dab for the rails) or gaskets. I didn't know about the fel-pro setup, sounds pretty slick.
Silicone hater and proud of it , ------------------ "...they don't make no seatbelt for the mind, so I can't buckle up for this ride." Mr Belvedere (aka Jason) Current driver: 1966 Plymouth Belvedere II, 400BB (Torker 383; Purple Shaft 6pak cam; Carter Competition AFB; Hedman headers; 2 1/2" full exhaust with Flowmasters; "Chrome" ECU; recurved distributor; 8.2:1 smogger heads; 8qt Moroso pan/pickup; Melling HV oil pump) and 727 Torqueflite (2400 Stall; Transgo shift kit) Best run 14.40 by previous owner (track opens in MARCH!) This weekend: Jacob's Ultra Energy team (box/wires/coil), block off the heat risers, 1" plastic carb spacer. [This message has been edited by Mr Belvedere (edited February 01, 2000).] |
#6
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Oh, for those projects that you pinch pennies, no matter how few they may be, and don't mill the head face when having the heads cut, this felpro set-up takes up the slack.
Just thought I'd throw that in..... |
#7
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Have always used just the metal valley pan with permatex high temp gasket sealer on the intake & head sides & a little high-temp RTV silicone gasket maker on the ends. No silicone near the fuel that way.
------------------ BFRACN |
#8
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Ok, I did cut the heads/block a total of .030, BUT, I would figure the intake would be closer to the heads because they dropped down right?? So, anyways If i can I will just use the valley pan I bought from mopar performance, and 2 sets of intake gaskets to cut off the exhaust heat crossover, sound good??
Also, I have the chrome timing chain cover and there is a litle "timing hole" on it for timing using the harmonic balancer. The stock water pump housing covers this whole assembly up so its useless! You cant put it on the other side because its upside down and totally not right. Whats the deal??? Thanks. [This message has been edited by Chris A (edited February 01, 2000).] |
#9
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Alluminum water pump housing will work, plus take some weight off the front. One other thing I did with my intake was to fill the heat passage with two part epoxy. Takes care of that problem! Those little metal plares that come with the Mopar valley cover are a waste of time. I use the Fel-Pro# 1215 which is blocked already.
------------------ BFRACN |
#10
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Yea, I just bought the MP "blocked heat riser" valley pan, disappointed when I got it to say the least. I will probably use their "blocks" along with some jbweld.
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#11
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Ok, what I finally did was make a template of the pan where it needed to be blocked then I cut two pieceses 1/16 inch bigger around than the whole out of the old pan I had laying around. Then I just flipped the pan over and used adhesive to set them in the "pocket", ultimately between the head and valley pan. This will not go anywhere because its bigger than both the gasket, and the head holes. The only question is this going to stand up to the heat? What do you guys think? I figure it would and I used that material because I already had no room for any excess material between the manifold and heads or else my bolts would not go in straight. Please reply thanks.
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#12
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I have never used anything but the valley pan and I have never had vacuum leaks or sealing problems. That is all I would use. I am a little confused on the talk of blocking off the heat crossover. The felpro valley pan I just bought does not have provisions for the heat block off. Why is everyone talking about how to block it off? hope this helps
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#13
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To make the most power you want the manifold as cool as possible, the exhaust heat crossover would hinder this notion and would make the manifold hotter. It is also for emissions but I don't care so I just blocked it off.
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#14
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It has been a while since the last time a changed a valley pan gasket. The last time I did, Felpro had two different valley pans, one with the heat crossover holes and one without. I got the one without and used the brush tack, that came with it, to properly seal it.
The only problem that I have had with this, is that the engine is now very cold blodded, even in the summer. ------------------ '96 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT CC 360 4X4 '68 Charger 383-4 |
#15
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I take an old valley pan and make 2 pieces to fit over the heat crossover holes just so they fit in the indentation in the new pan (seal them with RTV). I have done this twice with different intakes. The car runs really good and the power increase is noticeable. Car is not cold blooded. Had to change accelerator pump volume though for the denser air.(needed more fuel) Also it ran better with the paper gaskets on each side of the pan, one valley pan I had did not have a sealing ridge around each port it had one around both, in this case the paper gaskets are a good idea.
[This message has been edited by Squad (edited February 13, 2000).] |
#16
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Just go out and buy Felpro #1215 intake gasket kit. It has the blocked off intake gasket incorporated right in the metal part. Dont have to cut anything out to fill any hole.
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#17
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Hey Squad, Thats exactly what I did. It took 5 minutes and should work great.
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#18
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I blocked my heat riser the weekend before last. I used the supplied "heat blockers" trimmed down to a bit larger than the manifold opening, pounded them in and then filled with 2-part epoxy (formerly known as JBweld). My choke is flakey now, but I have little doubt that I will be able to get it adjusted. I don't know how much gain it is, but anything helps. The previous owner ran a best of 14.40, with the heat risers, windage tray, and the Jacobs (I haven't finished the install, and nothing is tuned for it yet) I am running 5.3 zero to sixty (stopwatch times), which should be solidly into the 13s (I think, track not open yet!). As far as the heat riser goes, I would probably do it similiarly next time, the epoxy should be a much better insulator than the sheet metal or valley pan. I should be able to check out how the epoxy is holding up in a few weeks, going to swap head gaskets, need to go with the thinner gaskets, 8.2:1 (factory) just ain't enough!
Jason |
#19
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Hey guys, Has anyone tried welding up the heat port where it starts @ the exhaust port. I see this hole as a flow problem in that are. Then you wouldn't need to worry about the intake gasket. What do you guys think?
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