340 sleeves in a 318

[^ChYmAiL^GTX]

Has anyone tried placing 340 sleeves into a 318??? We don´t have 340 here... only 318.... and I want to build a big inch stroker.

Thank

[TrashedCharger]

I believe that a 360 is far closer to the actual bore size of a 340 than any 318 engine.

In fact, a .040" overbore 360 will have the same bore as a 340. The difference between the main caps changes the pans, etc. I believe that the 360 replaced the 340 and used basically the same heads in the first year, with smaller valves and the bore was smaller. I wouldn't doubt that a 360 is nothing short of a factory modified 340 design. Somewhat of a mild stroker version of the 340 with .040" under boring and a few other design changes to suit the external balancing for the longer stroke. The relationship between a 360 and 340 are much closer than a 318 and 340.

What would be the perpose of gaining displacement in bore on a 318? Stroke is always better, especially for any street use. Unless you plan on hiking the power making RPM up higher for constant rolling usage, like circle or other circuit tracks that allow for it, I'd rather keep the RPM lower and make more power that way.

[passing you]

weaker 'less beef' main caps on the 318 also.

[Walkercolt]

GTX, I had a 390-ish CID stroker build from a 5.2L Magnum(basically a 318). 4" stroker crank and clean-up on the bores get there. The 340 is a stock 4.08" bore, which is a lot of over bore from the 3.92" of a 318. Block disortion and tolerences(as I meantioned above) become a problem with that much bore. Just go for a 390-396 CID stroker and you'll have plenty of power. 375 HP is cheap and easy to get to, and 400 ft/lbs of torque.

[rumblefish360]

Sonic check the cylinder walls before you attempt this. It is possible to bore the 318 out o a 360.

[66sportfury]

i agree with cageman 360s suck

[passing you]

340 bore is 4.040 standard, btw.

[cageman]

If you have 360 blocks, you can put crank spacers in there that cost $175, and make a 360 into a 340. Done it and it is a cheap 340.
Dont know what it is about 340's, but they are hands down a better motor. If I ever run a 360 again Ill be amazed.

[john briggs]

hey cage,
were can I get the crank spacers?

[cageman]

Richardson Auto Machine, PO Box 10426, Lynchburg, Virginia 24506
(434) 846-0043

[Mecki]

There has been a lot of discussions on the forum about boring a 318 to 340 size (4.040"). Some have done it without issues, some have had some cooling leakage eventually.

How about boring the 318 to 360 size (4.000") and throwing in a stroker crank? 360 stroker pistons are available in all sizes, even stock 4.000" bore and they are much cheaper than the 318 stroker pistons.

$299 for an Eagle crank and $338 for KB pistons. Not so bad if you want to be cheap and get a 402.

Has anyone done this build or even considered it?

[cageman]

Or use a 360 stroke crank with the stock 318 pistons, Im looking into that build, cheap motor. Sticks the pistons out a little.

I have a 67 la318 I took a big ol hammer and beat the cylinder walls out of and it was .200 thick. I have a 360 block I dropped a valve, it was a 78 block, it too was .200 thick. Either one could be a 340 easily.

[Mecki]

Originally Posted by cageman

Or use a 360 stroke crank with the stock 318 pistons, Im looking into that build, cheap motor. Sticks the pistons out a little.

But then you need to spend some $ to turn down the mains.

No problem with low C/R tho!

[cageman]

No, you buy the crank for like 300 to 400, cant remember exactly how much, you can find them cheaper though. Already has the smaller mains.

[Mecki]

I did not know that such crank even existed, but yeah I saw one when I was checking out some options for this kind of build.

I found some interesting things. Cambell Enterprices have the Eagle crank 103404000 for $255. They also have a new KB piston KB356 available in std. 4.000" size for $300. The quench pad has to be machined, so you can get good C/R with any head type you want to use.

Add rings, bearings, cam and lifters, oil pump and the rest of the stuff required and you have a 402 stroker short block for around $1000.

No big deal if it blows after a while as long as it was fun when it lasted.

Does any one know Cambell Enterprices? They seem to have good stuff for good prices, but I don't recall hearing/reading anything about them here.

[Cudafever]

I have been checking out them as well and Manciniracing...........one of then i will be buying my stroker kit(360)from
Been leaning toward Cambell as they have been the best to return e-mail with answers for my question.

Haven't buy from either one of them...............Yet!

[Walkercolt]

Ray Barton does many 318 bores to 4.00, and most work fine, but some castings that the bores aren't straight on(not uncommon) or have bore shifts will break-thru. Mass produced blocks have more tolerance than most people realize. The coolent and oil passesges are done with clay cores, and they can move around during the casting process making thin spots. Really, it's like a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine. It's amazing they can make so many for the price they do with so few failures. The stroker kits with Scat rods and decent pistons and a cast crank can be had for $1100 plus shipping. Even just cleaning up the 318 bores, you get a 390-396 SB that with the Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap intake and your choice of carbs will out-power most 383's for less money. This isn't a 7000 RPM 600HP build, but it's 150-200HP more than a "smogger" 318. Your butt will feel that.

[Zach H]

I seen some small block stroker kit for the 318 and 360. I think it was on 440source.com. I have seen some pretty mean 360 to 408 or 410 strokers but nor sure of the 318 strokers. I guess why stroke a 318 when 360s are all around at reasonable cost.

[Mecki]

Originally Posted by Zach H

I guess why stroke a 318 when 360s are all around at reasonable cost.

Not everywhere.

That is for a reasonable cost. That's why I was thinking of starting with a worn out, already .030" or .060" over bored 318 block for $5 and go to .090" over.

[Zach H]

Originally Posted by Mecki

Not everywhere.

That is for a reasonable cost. That's why I was thinking of starting with a worn out, already .030" or .060" over bored 318 block for $5 and go to .090" over.

You can check your local swap meets or on craigslist and find a 360 block for I would say $100 or less in fact I have a complete 360 I took out of a volare I would sell for $100 in Cheyenne Wy. When I pulled out the motor the block warmer plug was cracked and loose so I am unsure condition of motor. Would make a decent builder.

[Mecki]

For us the shipping costs always builds up the price level, especially for heavy parts.

[Ray Bell]

Originally posted by Walkercolt
Ray Barton does many 318 bores to 4.00, and most work fine, but some castings that the bores aren't straight on (not uncommon), or have bore shifts will break-thru.....

It's not just the ones that 'break thru'... how many don't break but don't have sufficient material left to hold in the power?

You go too thin and the walls act like your lungs, the expand and contract as the engine breathes. That can't go on forever.

Does he do sonic testing? If so, what does he reckon is a safe minimum wall thickness?

[Tarrbabe]

Of the small blocks. I guess I do too and won't sell mine. But at least here in the states we have a lot to play with. I think if he can't get a 340/360 block to start with, he would be better with the 4" crank. The price on those parts are finally pretty cheap.
I cant help but think he would be better off buying a balanced rotating assembly from someone though to head off problems of machinest down there not understanding what it needs.

[Walkercolt]

I know Barton sonic tests blocks, but I have no idea of his "specs", although I'm sure they are conservative. Having talked to him, it would depend on the intended application what he'd think is a good build. I doubt if he would build a 318 bored to 4.00" for a blower or a 150HP nitrous shot. That's just good sense. Those are applications for new R-3 or Magnum race blocks. Why spend $10 grand or more on a questionable block? You have to use some common sense building an engine. If you're using a 30-40 year-old LA block, bored .060", that's not the best candidate for a super-high performance motor. It's had thousands of heating/cooling cycles, and lots of stresses even if Grandma just drove it to the grocery store. Metalurgy has improved as well as casting techniquices over the years, and MOPAR has beefed-up LA and Magnum engines just for performance applications. Just because you have it taking up space, doesn't mean your old block is a good basis for a power-build. Do you understand what I'm saying? It MIGHT be a good basis for a high-power build, but you really need some very highly qualified expert advice and investigation before you grab a junk-yard 340 block and start pouring $$$$ into it.

[Tarrbabe]

They aren't talking about a 340. Their talking about a 318. The idea of boring a 318 that far is like me deciding to join the army at 60. I don't think it will work but I haven't tried it.

[Walkercolt]

Just meant as an example. To bore a 318 .080" without being able to test it, doesn't sound good to me either. The liner is "thick enough" (you should have about .035" left), maybe. Some machine shops and engine builders can do it. Most can't. Any core-shift and you'll hit water. I had an Olds 350 bored .060" and broke thru the liner. Go figure.

[DonCarr]

Actually a good question about sleeving the 318. Sleeving to 340/360 sizes would allow use of cheaper KB hypereutectic pistons + standard rings compared to 318-390. The 318 bore requires forged pistons with 1/16 rings.

A sleeved 318 may be better than an 0.080 over 360 or 0.040 over 340. Maybe not?

Does anyone know cost and performance issues of sleeving/wet sleeving. At least $600 ? (Enginetech catalog shows sleeves list for $14 each (3/32"), and $22 in high strength materials (1/8") - very interesting) - likely no wall left to go to 340 sleeve -so wet sleeve?

Or just get some bailout money and a siamese 340 resto block with 4.18 crank - 467 inches.
(http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=23812) for Hughes 426 stroker kit.

[Paul Precht]

A rigid cylinder like a .030" will make more power than the .130" overbore with the cube advantage. Do you want to say it's a 340 or do you want it to make good power. Back in the nineties I was charging 100 in labor to sleeve one cylinder. It's a great idea for saving a damaged block.Paul.

[DonCarr]

I think GTX was thinking of installing 8 - 340 sleeves in a 318.

More I think of it, it's impossible. The block would just flop all over the place.

[^ChYmAiL^GTX]

Thanks for the reply. The thing is that the 318 I have should be sleeved. Its 060 over... So.. why place 318 sleeves when y can place 340 sleeves?

I´m not talking about boring a 318 to 4¨... but a 340 sleeve should have enough wall for me not to have any problems...

If distance between centers of bores in a 318, 360 and 340 are the same... Why can´t a place the biggest sleeve of all?? Sleeves are held at the top and bottom of the block... I assume that placing 340 sleeves will be wet sleeving the block.

I know you should have a lot of 340, 360 and big blocks available there... (lucky you! lol) but here in Argentina only a few Dodges GTX had a 318 (all mopars here were equipped with slant six because of gas prices)

There´s also a great deal with engine titles... the law in Argentina about this is very strict because of engine steals in the past (......) so you cannot buy a block in a junk yard... or use one of a boat. Not legal at least...

Anyone was wet sleeved a small block here???