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Old 03-12-2009, 11:00 AM
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Question Plumbing an 8 3/4 axle??

Sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum. I am looking for a little help on plumbing an 8 3/4 axle. I am swapping this into a 95 Dakota. I have a rebuilt axle with all the brake components and wheel cylinders, but need to put brake lines on it. There is no proportioning valve currently on the axle. Any suggestions on what type or kind to use?? Can I use the old from my Dakota or upgrade to something else?? I was going to get a brake line bender and some line from the local auto parts store and start bending around everything. Any tips or things to look out for would be appreciated. This is the first time for me plumbing an axle..

Thanks...
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:45 AM
passing you passing you is offline
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Initially I wanna say use the dakota prop valve.

Most important is the prop valve being matched to the masters bore/stroke capacity.
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:46 AM
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all you need is a splitter on the rear housing =2-1
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:20 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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You also need a "Double Flaring Tool" that swages/bells the end of the tube before finishing the final flare!
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:41 PM
Century Cp Guru Century Cp Guru is offline
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The Bolt that Holds Junction on axle Is special as Its Other Purpose is top vent The Rear, also the Prop Vale is an the Metering Block it Called A combination Valve, Since the Dakota had Drum already you should be ok.
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Old 03-12-2009, 04:34 PM
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nhdriver nhdriver is offline
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Does your Dak have antilock rear brakes? You will have to get rid of them as the sensor for them is not adaptable to the 8 3/4 as far as I know.
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:54 PM
Century Cp Guru Century Cp Guru is offline
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The Anti lock Sensor thing is Mounted before the Rear up on the Frame at least they used to be And Brake Shoes are the Same or real close
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:58 PM
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Default Lines

Inline Tube has prebent and accurately shaped lines for your axle. They also have the splitter/ vent fitting that bolts to the housing with a special grooved bolt. This splitter/ vent is critical. It keeps heat pressure from blowing seals. Their stuff is first class and fits well.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:03 PM
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Thanks for all the input so far. I am going to have look closer at the anti lock brakes. i don't think it has them, but not positive.

aaracer - thanks for reminding about the double flair. i may look at buying a pre bent set from inline tube. might be easier in the long run.

i've replaced brake lines in the past. I have bought the standard lengths and bent them myself so that worked. I ended up with a little extra, but could easily be bent somewhere out of the way. I may end up doing that even now until my funds get a little better. Being a laid off engineer in michigan kind of sucks.. but gives me time to work on the old truck...

I need to do some research on what car this rear end is out of. I have a seen list with casting #s on it...
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:42 AM
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Default Hemmings

Motor News has a complete multi-paged data book on these axles. You will be able to determine which car line the axle came from by the dimensions in the book. It can be printed online.
The book has virtually everything you need for dimensions, seals, bearings etc. Great tool to have.
Here's the address;
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/...errearend.html
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Old 03-14-2009, 12:15 AM
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I would use the brake lines directly from the 9 1/4 on your dakota and swap them on to the new axle. They have the correct diameter lines on them for a pickup truck's proportioning and should have every bend in them to clear your axle U bolts, etc.

If you decide to go with the 8 3/4 setup, just go and pick up a double line flairing tool and a line bender for cheap. I've fabricated the entire fuel line, brake line and transmission cooling lines on the last three vehicles that I restored for dirt cheap going this route.

Summitracing.com has a nice selection of lines in different uncut length rolls if you're going to be doing this from time to time. If not, just pick up a stick of the line in the diameter you need.

Be sure to get more than you need and also be sure that your bend isn't too close to your flair before making your flair, or you won't get a clean place to put the flairing tool on the line. Get your bends close, then leave a little bit of length that is straight, even if it is supposed to be bent, install your fitting, make your flair and then do your final bends (if any) near your fittings.
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Old 03-14-2009, 07:55 PM
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Thanks for all of the replies. I am probably going to pull the rear end tomorrow or Monday. I will see if I can get the old lines off without breaking them. I remember changing them on my 94 after a wheel cylinder was leaking. They were so old that the tube just sheared right off... The lines are 14 years old... I may just run all new with some cheap tools. It will be good to learn for any future projects. Also there is some type of electrical connector that goes to the top of the gear housing. It is hard to tell what it is while still in the truck. It does connect to a spot on the frame rail. So it is probably the abs sensor. I'm ok without abs. I think my brake light is already on... It might be unhooked somewhere already from the previous owner.
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