493 xe285 comp cam

[FC7RT]

Hello,im new here and was hoping to get as much feedback on this as possible,i have a 493 stroker, ported stealth heads,diamond pistons +.005 above deck yeilding 10.6.1 compression, performer rpm, 1 7/8 hooker 4 into 1, 850 pumper carb, 727 trans, coverter not purchased yet but will be 2600 2800rpm and i have both 3.23 and 3.55 diff centre to choose from.Its going in 70 challenger the cam ive just ordered from the usa is the comp xe285hl 241/247 @ 50 with my 1.6 rollers i have 585 lift,has anybody used this cam? Or something simmiler, how is it on the street? what does it sound like?I know its a mild cam but all this talk of big cubes soaking it all up worries me,i dont intend to drag race but rather want a tuff streeter ,im hoping to get 540hp and around 600+ TQ, am i on the money?let the feed back roll in Thank you from Australia

[passing you]

A lil small for my taste, but not tiny, it'll be turn key every time, a real good reliable street terrorizer.

You should have 71* overlap with that cam so I'm guessing it'll sound/idle like a warmed up 440 or in other words act like it only has about 66*. jmo
I don't know how you drive,except=3.23-3.55??????
but you did build a stroker.....so I'm recommending the solid 294s 250*@.050 110*cl and .525 lift 74* over lap+1.6=.560 and it won't hammer the valve springs as bad plus you have not much gear even though it's a stroker .imo

I like the lift .585@ 1.6 , but not enough overlap & dur @.050
heck the old .509 has more overlap=76* but not enough lift.

Why the split lift/dur cam?
What's up with the head/flow ratio?
Really a 108* cl would be nice but need a lil more info.

[BigBlockDude]

I think it'll run good with that cam.
My boss just built a 440 for a customer. It has Edelbrock heads, 10 to 1, and an Edelbrock cam that is in.238, ex.242 @ 50, and 512, 528 lift with 1.6 rockers. It made 549 hp, 548 ft lbs on the dyno with a Torquer II and 750 Holley.

[TK]

Originally Posted by FC7RT

Hello,im new here and was hoping to get as much feedback on this as possible,i have a 493 stroker, ported stealth heads,diamond pistons +.005 above deck yeilding 10.6.1 compression, performer rpm, 1 7/8 hooker 4 into 1, 850 pumper carb, 727 trans, coverter not purchased yet but will be 2600 2800rpm and i have both 3.23 and 3.55 diff centre to choose from.Its going in 70 challenger the cam ive just ordered from the usa is the comp xe285hl 241/247 @ 50 with my 1.6 rollers i have 585 lift,has anybody used this cam? Or something simmiler, how is it on the street? what does it sound like?I know its a mild cam but all this talk of big cubes soaking it all up worries me,i dont intend to drag race but rather want a tuff streeter ,im hoping to get 540hp and around 600+ TQ, am i on the money?let the feed back roll in Thank you from Australia

Be one awesome truck motor! Or a torquey street motor)

With the converter, unless it is going to see tons of highway miles, I would go with the 3:55's.....
With that much lift, be real sure your not pinching them valve springs.

A lil small for my taste,

hehehehe......

We think alike!

[FC7RT]

Thanks guys,just spoke to kim from 440 source to order few bits and pieces,he also thinks it will be fine,tells me i should achieve my goals but to keep it at zero deck instead of +.005 out the deck,like i said id be happy with the power as its not seeing any track duty,he also tells me it wont sound like a vacuam cleaner rather it will sound like a tuff muscle car and a little lope,wish someone out there had my combo!!!!

[DEMON SIZZLER]

I did some carb tuning on a friends near identical 498 stroker 440 with the same cam and it was a really strong running motor. In his nearly 3,900 lb '70 Cuda with 3.91 gears and 3,200 stall converter, it would run low 12's in the qtr with a basically stock jetted 750 cfm Edelbrock Performer carb and with very limited traction. It would have been an easy 11 sec. car, David.

[FC7RT]

Thanks for that info,How did your buddys car sound?

[DonCarr]

www.Hughesengines.com is a well known Mopar only shop.

They have a few dyno tests of big strokers.

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArt...st11162002.php (276/280 @ 0.050) Solid tappet http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArt...ckhevsolid.php

***http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArt...st05012006.php (246/252 @ 0.050) Hydraulic roller http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=23988

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArt...ross012007.php (236/244 @ 0.050) Hydraulic roller http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=22068

Hope dyno charts help. The second 2 seem similar combos to yours. (6 pack though). Looks like you don't need much gear (<3.23) or converter (stock) on street tires.

***("The owner of the car said it was frightening to drive on the street. The torque was so explosive that you had to be very careful with your right foot.")

[DEMON SIZZLER]

Originally Posted by FC7RT

Thanks for that info,How did your buddys car sound?

Somewhat depends on what mufflers and dia. pipe is used. This '70 Cuda had 3" exhaust/mufflers from TTI and it was loud and mean sounding!

[TK]

I would imagine it would be a rolling lope, more than a choppity lope.......

I love the way 3" sounds, even the smallest motor sounds BIG!

[FC7RT]

Thanks DONCAR that hughes stuff seems almost unbeleivable,cheers

[FC7RT]

Guess what i went and done?,i switched my order from xe285hl to xr292hr-10 hyd roller 242/248@50 1.6 roller gives 585/580 lift,should easily make my 550hp 620 TQ and drive like a stealth on the road,Doncar i was inspired by that,although it seems a little unbelivable,not saying its not true but wow!

[DonCarr]

Gosh, thought I was supporting your first cam choice. That was quite a good pick to me. That was a very fast opening cam.

Guess you'll have to buy a drag chute now.

[FC7RT]

Not sure about a chute but should be good, great maybe?,i have to wait 2 to 3 months for my stuff to arrive to finish off the engine (cam lifters and some accesories from 440 source),but as soon as i get them my engine will be machined and ready for its heart and i will put it on the pump and post the results,ive got a buddy with a machine shop who has all the gear for the 440 block to square it up,im a mechanic so i do all my own assembly,heads will be flowed in the next couple of weeks then recieve porting,vave job locks and retainers,maybe springs if not up to speed,then flowed again.Cant wait!Its going in a 70 rt challenger,its a numbers car gailen govier certified,i have all docs from production line till today bla bla bla.But driving this thing was so boring that it led me to pull the eng and now shes on a rottiserie getting a nut bolt resto..Cheers guys IM EXCITED!! Hey what do you guys think of my carb Holley 850 pumper square bore with choke,was going to remove choke horn,bought it new,let me know.Remember street use..

[passing you]

FC7RT, glad you stepped it up, wish u went solid but f it, you'll be doing a lot better then with that xe285.

Magical/non magical dynos are good for reference, thats it.
Though you would be surprised at how much power you can find given you had 20 frickin runs on a dyno to figure it out....lol.

Good luck.

[DonCarr]

You're into quite the fun project. Must be awesome to have a '70 Challenger in Australia.

Here's a rotisserie '70 Challenger I did most of. Almost finished now in Dark burnt orange, black vinyl top (frenched rear window insert), covered with trim including body side and rocker panel, magnum hood with flat black etc.

The car had evaporated from rust, put an extraordinary amount of metal, including about 60 pounds of mig wire in it. Front, including cowl was deflanged, sandblasted, and car coated in Por 15 products. Note roof and rear deck was removed to restore roof frame and driprail.

Please don't hesitate to include pictures of your car/engine and beach babes etc. Maybe a koala bear and kangaroo too.

[FC7RT]

No shit! roof skin off! guess its the weather there,my car was born in california then it moved to scottsdale AZ in 1990 so no rust issues at all but it was hit in the rear in 1973 and the body shop tapped and buffed the sheetmetal till it was paper thin (typical americans lol).While i was in the usa i purchased every bit of sheetmetal ie full 1/4s, back panel trunk floor,x member and replaced it all.So much work went into it to get everything looking factory,i even spot welded everything together exept the spare wheel bracket whick have welds from fact,those aftermarket 1/4s are better than nothing but some time gets absorbed getting the finer details just perfect.I will post some pics of how i got it and some progress shots and you will think im a luni for stripping it.BOREDOM DOES IT! Just tried to upload pics couldnt do it,pm me and ill send you stuff maybe you can post..I will try get some pics of a koala as well,But heh people buzz right out with the yanki stuff exept for mustangs which are more common down here than some of our local cars

[DonCarr]

Just post photos on www.photobucket.com and copy and paste the link into a response.

That Challenger shouldn't have been fixed. It was way worse than at first glance. Tremendously strong now, much stronger than new. I added several little braces and brakets + welds to stiffen the chassis. Even added tubes from the lower front "A" post to to shear panels - just above air boxes - while cowl was off. (I'm a structural engineer - couldn't help myself).

Guess it's a bit late, but I think the best way to put a Challenger quarter on is along that curvy contour. It's a disaster at the trunk level. And leave some the factory pieces around the tail light. Then I'd seriously consider deflanging the entire trunk section from the back window and lifting the back end off. This would expose the wheelwells and trunk floor for an easier repair. Then finish weld the quarters off the car, and reassemble.

And man is it tough to finish that contour on replacement quarters. Best to leave that part factory. The replacement quarter had flat sections that should have been curved.

We installed the cheap 1-1/8 front adco sway bar. Rear bar is different mount from factory bar - we welded bracket to rear end housing. The bars are ugly at ends and hard to install (well), but should work well. The powder coat scapes off and brakets are clunky. Would recommend them though, and urethane stub strut mounts, and Moog caster helper bushings, and KYB gas adjust shocks.
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You made a good call on the cam. Put some numbers into comp cams free CamQuest 6 program (http://www.compcams.com/Camquest/). Could only use a 440 with your first cam xe285hl, then swapped to xr280hr. That swap picked up 30HP and 40TQ. They didn't list xr292hl. Sounds like you bought a lot of power without ruining bottom end with that choice.

Guess those hydraulic rollers must have a lot more lift area under the curve than even that high intensity 285. The xe285hl has more total lift and duration at 0.050 than the hr280hr, yet the xr280hr beat it, and the hr292hl will undoubtedly blow the xe285hl away.

You likely picked up 50HP and 50Tq for X$ above the other cam without messing up the bottom end if that program is to be trusted. Good value!!!! I was worried the cams were too similar.

[FC7RT]

Gday,Doncar,the cam choice is sitting well with me,im over the rumble of big cams and converters,i had a street car with a 355 cube aussie engine (holden)GM i had a solid roller 264/272@50 680 lift i used factory rods,crank,block,and head castings,it made 572 HP and ran 10.26 @132MPH i did 200+ passes then threw a leg out of bed,(factory rods) hey i was on a budget,cant be bothered with that bs anymore,i want to hop in my car and drive to car shows and the beach.And when a turbo jap car pulls up i want to blow there minds,in a car they have no clue what it is.Its 1am going to bed ill try and post pics in a couple of days,going away with the lady tommorow.Catchya..