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#1
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440 Frost Plugs
I am going to remove my transmission and send it to my local trans guy for some attention , and I thought this might be a good time to change out all of the frost plugs . I have only ever had 1 go in all my time , and it was a different vehicle .
This might be an ounce of prevention , or overkill , I'm not sure which , but if I go through with this I was wondering where I could get a set of drawings for the 440 with all of the frost plug locations , and who has the best kit for this if any ? |
#2
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You can get a freeze plug kit at NAPA.
Spend the extra coin and get the brass ones. |
#3
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Ditto on the brass ones - I had a (steel) one rust through after 5 years. Of course the engine had to come out to access it. The rest of them were replaced as well - with brass.
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#4
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Double ditto, Go w/ the brass they use em in marine engines which have corrosion problems anyway, the brass ones won't rust away.
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#5
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If you have to go steel, paint the back with ultra copper RTV and let it cure before you pound 'em in. Brass is much prefered.
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#6
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Also, if you use straight water as coolant, add some anti-corrosion treatment (water-pump lubricant is one) and never leave it in the car if stored any length of time. Personally I'll never use water again unless I go to a drag strip, and only for the duration of the races - back to 50-50 coolant a.s.a.p.
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#7
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brass fer sure.
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#8
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Brass is ordered and on the way . I had forgotten all about the brass ones . How about instalation , I have used sockets on an old extension as an instalation tool , but I would get the proper tool if the concensus is in favor . Not trying to be a pest , just looking for the least amount of hassels as possible . I had an evening once upon a time where I spent hours removing three frost plugs from the inside of a small block after they had been driven through by the factory builders .
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#9
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Well, removing them is as easy as driving one side into the block with a flat punch and grabbing them with a pair of vice grips to pull out. Putting them in can be done with a large socket (puts some dents i them) or using a seal driver and a hammer or just a large diameter pipe cap for a drift.
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#10
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another pertenant question..
What is everyone using as far as sealer? I know you clean as best as you can, but then what?
I have seen people use a spray Loctite primer prior to using Red and Green Loctite. The Green was used more when the sealing surface was slightly gouged or pitted and couldn't be smoothed enough with wire brush or sanding/smoothing with emory cloth. From what I was told, it filles in the small imperfections. Have even seen people use nothing too. (on a side note, has anyone actually have a frost plug pop when frozen?) |
#11
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I've always sanded the hole the best I can then put a small bead of RTV on the plug and drive it in. I've never had one leak. Never thought about using loctite though. Could make it tough to get out if the need arised.
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#12
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The locktite doesn't really lock them in, it just seals them up where years of water/corrosion has made the sealing surface "not perfect." They still pop out with a screwdriver and hammer to one side.
Also, I was "taught" that the holes were really in the block and heads to get the casting sand out when it was poured/forged. The idea of them popping out when below freezing weather to relieve pressure. if water only is used, is just secondary. Anyone else learn this? |
#13
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Your correct. They are actually called core plugs. After the block or head is cast they are put some sorty of tumbler which jostles the casting around to break up the casting sand so it can come out of the casting. Although they sometimes do pop out if the coolant freezes that isn't always the case. You'd be suprised the amount of people that don't know this.
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