Vacum pod on distributor

[70Barracuda]

I have too much timing at idle. Which way do I turn the allen screw inside the vacum pod to tighten the spring in there so it will take some timing out at idle?

Thanks

[DJM]

You do realize that you disconnect the vacum while you set the timing. what is the engine idling at. A fast no load idle will cause a high vac signal to the vac advance and pull the advance in.

[70Barracuda]

Originally Posted by DJM

You do realize that you disconnect the vacum while you set the timing.

yeah


what is the engine idling at.

1100 stock 383HP


A fast no load idle will cause a high vac signal to the vac advance and pull the advance in.

so which way do I turn it to make the spring tighter?

[DJM]

clockwise: But why a stock 383 idling at 1100?? Way too fast. dle speed on the CAP equipped engine is 600 RPM in neutral and the non CAP is 500 RPM in neutral.

[70Barracuda]

Trying ti get the idle down. I think the vacum is too much for the spring at idle.

[DJM]

what screws are you using to set the idle speed and what carb do you have?

[rusty duster]

what carb do you have? And where on the carb is the hose hooked to that goes to the dist.

[ehostler]

If you've got it connected to ported vacuum (where it belongs), there should be little or no vacuum advance at idle.

[dave5711]

As Ed said, Put it on ported, and the problem will be solved.

Don likes to have guys put it on manifold, but it makes no sense, as it causes the condition you have now. too much at idle.

AS for the screw, I just curved a dist last night, and turning the screw counter clockwise, tightened the spring, and reduced the advance.

It was a sb distributor.


If you crank the screw up to reduce it, you also reduce it at cruise(which is when you want vac advance) A good reason to switch it to ported instead of manifold.

[mhenesian]

Manifold vacuum for the distributor makes sense if you're running a big cam with very low manifold vacuum (say less than 6" Hg), and you're having to run a large throttle openning just to keep it idling at say 900 ~ 1100 RPM. The extra 8~10 or so additional degrees of advance will "clean up" the idle (require less throttle opening and a leaner idle mixture). But this is real "old school". Mostly, 60's Pontiac, Olds, Buick, and some big block Chevy's, Mopar never used manifold vacuum for the distributor (as long as I've been working on them ~35 years).

If you're frustrated, just plug the vacuum advance, and get the distributor recurved to run 18 degrees initial advance with 38 degrees total, all mechanical, in by ~3000 RPM. You'll be much happier. Also Mopar vacuum advance will cause engine detonation (and damage) when you're decelerating from 90 to 70 MPH. Beware,

Mark