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#1
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Lots of questons.
I just got a 69 Plymouth Fury III 2 DR hard top with no dents or rust. I dont know a thing about dodge out of all the hot rods I have owned this is my first. So first off any one know were to get restoration parts for this car? I found a company called firm feel for suspension stuff but as far as body parts and interior goes not much is out there. My dash pad gages and door panels need replaced as well as the driver window. What I would really be happy about finding is a fiberglass hood with the 6 pack scoop on it. Also going to be doing rims and tires soon I would like to fit the widest set of 17s I can in the rear any suggestions on tire size width and back spacing? Do the 440s have the same motor mounts as the 318 is it just a drop in deal or do I need a new front clip from a big block fury cuz the old motor has ban sitting for a few years and I want some power.I will try to get a pic soon of the car I have a few but dont know how to post them ye
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#2
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Welcome aboard, Joseph. One of the first things to learn about your Plymouth is that it is not a Dodge, although some models share sheet metal and other components, but each brand is distinct and recognized as an individual.
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#3
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And next
Get a subscription to Mopar Muscle magazine. It contains source advertising for everything you will need.
Welcome aboard, and keep us posted on your progress. |
#4
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Ya I have looked through the Mopar mags but no one makes parts for the C body I would think being that a lot of these cars were made as cop cars they would have more of a hot rod following my biggest thing is I want to fined a company that makes fiberglass lift off 6 pack hoods I think it would make the car look a lot better. Also will the 440 bolt in with out any mods to the motor mounts? Cuz it would be nice to just drop a motor in with some power instead of trying to squeeze power out of a small block looking for around 350 HP and I like the sound that a big block has I want it to have a quiet rumble.
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#5
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This website also has a search feature, so you can review previous discussions on topics you are interested in.
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#6
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The 440 and 318 don't share the same k-member. They also don't share the same transmission.
how's 415hp out of a 318? http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...ine/index.html |
#7
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Joe, one of the first things your going to find out is even our popular Mopar cars do not get much attention in the aftermarket. Your C-body 69 Fury III is going to be ignored in a big way.
Try this web site, engineswaps.com for a kit that will allow a 440 into the 318's place. This is one thing that bothers me about my MoPars. They wasted money and time developing different K frames for the same car for different engines. Chevy's are wonderful for easy swaps. I did a 318 to 400 swap in my Dodge Magnum. (Something like a Cordoba if you know them......just goggle/E-bay Dodge Magnum - '78 - '79 ) It was very easy with the swap kit. |
#8
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Thank you every one and ya I have built a few motors and am sure I could build a lot of power from the 318 but 400 HP from a small block is not the same as 400 HP from a big block. I want my car to idle smooth be quiet a hot 318 would require a big stall converter and some deep gears. I am planning on running a 2000 rpm stall and 3.55 gears this car is going to be driven a lot. Thanks for all the help I will keep every one posted on my progress.
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#9
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Not true, but a big difference there is.
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#10
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You can readily get a stroker crank to take that 318 out to 380 or 390 or something... and the original mounts will take a 360 that can be stroked to 400+ cubes.
Lighter on the front end with all the punch of the big block, sounds like a win to me. Less work, the plow understeer will be kept down, brake better too. |
#11
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Yes, I'd tend to cost out a stroked 360 (408 cu.in.) since it's basically a bolt-in, and compare that to a built 440, or stroked 400 (451 cu.in.) then make your decision. The big block will need a mount kit and a 727 tranny. Small block trannys don't bolt up to big blocks, so that's another cost to be factored into your plans. Tons more info here, so enjoy your project, and welcome to the site.
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#12
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Stick to the small block build for your first time it will save headaches from K frames, motor mounts, new trans and trans mount, drive line, and so on. I have read for the best road manner 17s are recomended. buy the wheel offset measuring tool. companies dont like the returning of custom made wheels.
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#13
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K frame is the same for big and small block; this is not an A-body. To be honest, a C-body doesn't even have a K-member, it's got a one piece bolt on front subframe. So, you only need the BB engine mounts and it will bolt on + BB transmission. It's a pretty heavy car, so I would go with a big block. A mild 440 can make that a high 13- low 14 second car very easily while retaining excellent streetability even with mild gear ratios and converters. Biggest "problem" with a C-body is, that the body parts availability isn't very good, and that htere is no 150$ headers available. But even with cast iron manifolds it can make some steam, like this stroked 383 (489) that made 459 hp at 4900 rpm and 456 ft-lb already at 2000 rpm through exhaust & mufflers. Stock converter, stock high 2 gear ratios, and easy 13 second performance on street tires should be possible.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1utFs2uOvM...h/DSC08667.JPG |
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