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  #1  
Old 09-22-2009, 09:14 PM
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BelvedereII BelvedereII is offline
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Default Front drum/hub

I decided to change over the lugs on my '67 Belvedere II driver's side front drum (10") to right hand thread and have jacked it up pretty good. I first tried this a few months ago, by pressing the lugs out one at a time, but on the first lug noticed that the iron drum itself was distorting. The hub was not about to let that bolt go, and I'd started off with the drum laying flat on the press support. I turned the whole thing over and pressed the hub to get the drum back flat, and tried it on the car to make sure it wasn't distorted. Worked fine for a couple months but now that the track series is over I tried again.

I supported the hub itself using piston wrist pins, 3 at a time, to support the area around each lug, and when it was all said and done the lugs had torn sections of the splines where they went through the drum, and the hub itself was distorted at 3 of the lug holes as well!! I took the setup to the shop that does axles and manual trannies, with their press they were able to get the hub flange flat again, but there's some runout. I installed the drum again, tapping in new RH thread lugs, and it went on the spindle, but there's no way I'm going to drive that around.

Local parts yards don't have any B-body stuff, although they've got some late 60's C-bodies, and I just need the one hub/drum assembly. For what I've found for prices for new drums (which won't help with a distorted hub anyhow), it seems the time might be drawing near to go with a disc brake conversion or maybe those 11" C-body brakes if they'll work with my spindles. The interchange book doesn't show whether that is possible, does anybody know?

B II
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:25 AM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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The best answer is to find a hub and drum assembly for your model for the right hand side... that will then just slip on and Bob's your auntie...

But if you can't, but you can find a left, you can try grinding and drilling away at the thing until it pushes out without damage. Then put in the studs.
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:43 AM
wilks3 wilks3 is offline
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B II, I have hubs, rotors, and brackets to mount calipers (I'm using the calipers on my new setup) off a my 69 Charger. If your spindle is the same as
mine everything will fit, all you need is GM one piston calipers and pins.
E-mail me with you phone number and I'll tell you everything you need to do and the price. Cheap.
wilks3@att.net
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:07 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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The studs on front drums are swaged to retain the drums on the hub, the studs should never be driven/pressed out without cutting away the swages...there is a dedicated cutter for this job.

While many claim to get away with just driving out the studs, it's more likely that the hubs will be damaged as in the OP.
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:58 AM
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BelvedereII BelvedereII is offline
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John, that would explain the damage; as time goes on there have got to be fewer and fewer mechanics that know this kind of thing. Searches of this website and general Google searches didn't turn that up for me, didn't have the right combination of words and "swaged" now turns up tons of info---mostly on the early 8 3/4 axles.

I went to a local gear/tranny shop for advice, they pressed the distorted hub areas flat again and chucked it into a lathe to check for runout. All seemed well, so I put the drum back on and mounted it to the car. Out on the road at 70mph no vibration and hard braking felt the same as before. Will run this way for the rest of the year, overwinter look at gathering parts for discs.

Wilks3, are those the 2-piece rotors? I don't know about the knuckes being the same, I'll have to find another interchange book.

B II
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2009, 01:17 PM
wilks3 wilks3 is offline
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B II, Rotors are one piece hat style, If my memory is right, off 2002-2003 Dodge Magnum. You had to install longer studs, which I did, and disc fits right on using your stock hubs. The bracket centers the caliper on disc.
Look up Scarebird.com, It'll show you everything. My set up was the first design, they have since updated conversion, which I went to just because.
Simple, 1977 Cordoba rotors,bearings,seals, one piece disc. Their brackets and GM single piston calipers with matching hoses, thats it, simple.
What I like is nothing is stupid as for parts. With exception of brackets, you can get all parts you need at any auto parts store anywhere USA.
The rotors are almost 12" dia so you have plenty of braking power.
I used a MC (non-power) off mid 80's Volare which is 70/30 front rear split with 11" drums on rear with the 12" front discs on my 69 Charger.
You can lock fronts up if you really smash pedal hard, but with one foot normal or really hard braking they don't. Really good controlled pedal and braking.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:49 PM
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BelvedereII BelvedereII is offline
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Thanks, I've seen their website before and have looked for testimonials. Seems pretty straightforward, I'll give them a call.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:01 AM
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BelvedereII BelvedereII is offline
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More properly an email, I guess...no phone numbers given.

There's a '68 C-body in the junkyard, 11" drums and it appears to be all there. Does anybody know if they would swap over to my '67 B-body, either spindles and all, or everything from the C-body but using my car's spindles?
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:56 AM
DJM DJM is offline
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Back in the day the fronts were sent as a hub and drum assembly. They were available separately but we sold the assembly.
Like said above find a used drum and hub and make complete switch - much simpler with no chance for drum distortion or grinding of the swedged in studs.
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