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  #1  
Old 09-29-2009, 06:41 PM
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70Barracuda 70Barracuda is offline
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Default new drain on battery

I just put a new 100 amp alternator with built in regulator. 1 wire hook up, I disconnected the 2 field wires and taped them up, disconnected the voltage regulator and left the plug hanging. Now I have a drain on the battery that I did not have before. Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 09-29-2009, 10:02 PM
Satty71 Satty71 is offline
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Sounds like you may have somehow bypassed the ignition cut off. Start probing for componets that shouldn't be hot with the ignition off. Other than that I am not to familiar with your electrical set up.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:46 PM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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are the two field wires taped together to make a connection?
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:58 PM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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I put one of these on my Cuda in the rear (the battery is in the trunk).
Saved my bacon when I had some wires starting to smoke!! Once I smelled the buring wires, I had the switch flipped in 5 seconds.
Everyone should have one in my opinion. Everyone is almost guaranteed to have some kinda electrical fire or smoke due to a short, in their lifetime. Beats standing there and watching your car burn to the ground!
Also, great theft deterent if hidden.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1432/
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  #5  
Old 09-29-2009, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudabob496 View Post
are the two field wires taped together to make a connection?
should they be? I think some power is coming from the stock set up so the field and regulator wires are moot?
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  #6  
Old 09-30-2009, 12:34 AM
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Just unhook the new alt and see if your drain goes away. Most likely the field inside the new alternator is staying on and causing your drain.
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  #7  
Old 09-30-2009, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVMopar View Post
Just unhook the new alt and see if your drain goes away. Most likely the field inside the new alternator is staying on and causing your drain.
I did, no change. I guess it's random. How the hell do I start looking for the problem?
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  #8  
Old 09-30-2009, 01:31 AM
wilks3 wilks3 is offline
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How are you checking for drain on battery? I would hook a old analog volt meter between neg bat post and the neg cable, so you can watch needle sweep back and forth.
Start by pulling one of the firewall plug-ins out and see what happens. Nothing? Pull next one. If drain goes away, plug back in and start tracing where those wires go. Wiring diagram would really help here. Block go to fuse box? Pull one fuse at a time until clears.
Mopars are pretty good at seperating electrical systems so you can eliminate the good circuits from the bad.
Is it something stupid? Trunklight on with trunk closed? Brake lights on? Parking lights on? The old door switch stuck? Dome light on?
Good Luck!
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  #9  
Old 09-30-2009, 02:09 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Mopar Action

Tech Question
brandon crowe, jesup, GA, 1971 plymouth barracuda 440

Will a late model alternator off a '95 Dakota work on my Barracuda (besides fabing brackets)? Can the stock voltage regulator work? Wiring? My stock alternator sucks: my lights blink at an idle, this is rather annoying. Would bypassing the stock ammeter help any?

Brandon, yes, the Denso alternators will work fine, as will the stock '71 regulator. But since the later alternators are all 90 amperes or more, bypassing the ammeter / bulkhead connector would be almost mandatory -- if you don't want a major-league meltdown -- or worse.

The existing field wiring can remain uunchaged (except for the swapping the terminal lugs from 1/4" blades to ring lugs), but the charging circuit wiring must increase in gauge (lower numerically). I'd say 10 gauge would be OK with a 90 ampere alternator, although #8 would be better.

Rick


http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml Logged
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:39 AM
4HUNTIN 4HUNTIN is offline
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Did you go directly to the battery with the alt output?
I had to go to the disconnect switch on my drag car.
I had the output (alt) going to the start sol. but the alt
kept the engine running with the switch off till i moved it to the disc.
You may be energizing some accs.
Steve
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  #11  
Old 09-30-2009, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4HUNTIN View Post
Did you go directly to the battery with the alt output?
I had to go to the disconnect switch on my drag car.
I had the output (alt) going to the start sol. but the alt
kept the engine running with the switch off till i moved it to the disc.
You may be energizing some accs.
Steve
I should put a wire directly from the output on the alt to the battery and bypass the amp gauge?
This alt has a built in regulator.
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2009, 06:09 AM
4HUNTIN 4HUNTIN is offline
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Not sure what to tell ya.
But if its new since the change
something is hot when it shouldnt be.
Look at where you hooked up the output
and go from there.
Good Luck Steve
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  #13  
Old 10-01-2009, 08:53 PM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70Barracuda View Post
I should put a wire directly from the output on the alt to the battery and bypass the amp gauge?
This alt has a built in regulator.

the amp gauge bypass method has you run a wire from the alternator output to the 12v post on the starter solenoid. I actually have the wire going from the
alternator to a aftermarket amp guage, and then to the 12v post. That way I can monitor total amps while car is running, and see what amp loads like lights or fans pull.
The important thing is not to have the original line going through the bulkhead connector to the origianal amp gauge. Fire hazard at the bulkhead connectors.

I also installed a volt meter, but it would drain my battery unless I had the disconnect switch. Review the below web address:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
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