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  #1  
Old 10-27-2009, 09:44 PM
Zach H Zach H is offline
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Default 383 or 440 built into a hemi?

I was just reading a few things on putting hemi heads on a 440. Does anyone know what it would take to build a B block or RB block into a hemi? Would you end up using factory 426 hemi heads, manifold, and headers? Can you do the same thing to a 383 or 400 block? Since hemis are so hard to find and expensive to build a guy would think we would hear more about this build. So any info on what parts needed and modifications needed would be great.
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2009, 10:00 PM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...ion/index.html
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2009, 02:31 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Why would anyone want to do that? Hemi blocks are readily available, they are about 3000$ and everything else for a true Hemi is available aftermarket too. In the past when there wasn't any parts availability, the conversion was temptating for the "wow factor". However, you can easily overpower a factory 440 block even with wedge heads, so why use heads that have got a lot of potential on a block that doesn't? About everything in the conversion is custom; the conversion heads, their valvetrain, pistons, oi lreturn, block clearancing etc. etc. What you save in the block you are going to spend elsewhere. The conversion heads aren't quite as good either as Hemi heads that bolt on a true Hemi block. As far as B-block goes, there are no intakes readily available for a low deck Hemi.
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:43 PM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DartGT66 View Post
Why would anyone want to do that? Hemi blocks are readily available, they are about 3000$ and everything else for a true Hemi is available aftermarket too. In the past when there wasn't any parts availability, the conversion was temptating for the "wow factor". However, you can easily overpower a factory 440 block even with wedge heads, so why use heads that have got a lot of potential on a block that doesn't? About everything in the conversion is custom; the conversion heads, their valvetrain, pistons, oi lreturn, block clearancing etc. etc. What you save in the block you are going to spend elsewhere. The conversion heads aren't quite as good either as Hemi heads that bolt on a true Hemi block. As far as B-block goes, there are no intakes readily available for a low deck Hemi.
Good points, but WOW factor is a factor to some. Also, I can't see an RB block being overpowered if we're under 700 hp!
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:28 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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The parts are easier to come by than you think. Buying a new 426 Hemi would be a lot less expensive than the machine work involved in getting a B/RB block to accept the Stage 6 heads.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:55 PM
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http://www.stagev.com/ has been around selling all you need to do it THEIR way. I too would lean more into investing in a real 426 hemi. Problem with all these conversion companies/ideas is 5 yrs from now when you need parts they've long since closed the doors.
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2009, 12:15 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Just have some fake boots and plug wires coming out of the center of your valve covers.
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  #8  
Old 10-29-2009, 01:59 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudabob496 View Post
Good points, but WOW factor is a factor to some. Also, I can't see an RB block being overpowered if we're under 700 hp!
The mains begin to move around somewhere after 600 hp. Main studs will help some, next step is aluminum caps that help a lot. And there are different girdle or girdle/cap combos available too. I was told, that when the main caps start to move it's only a natter of time &cycles when the block will break. Not if, but when. I have had several wedges making over 700 hp and has seen some severe cap walk, but not broken any of them. One engine had aluminum caps, and that did cure the problem, softening the hit some. I would think that a Hemi with considerble heavier reciprocating assy wouldn't be any easier on this.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:41 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DartGT66 View Post
The mains begin to move around somewhere after 600 hp. Main studs will help some, next step is aluminum caps that help a lot. And there are different girdle or girdle/cap combos available too. I was told, that when the main caps start to move it's only a natter of time &cycles when the block will break. Not if, but when. I have had several wedges making over 700 hp and has seen some severe cap walk, but not broken any of them. One engine had aluminum caps, and that did cure the problem, softening the hit some. I would think that a Hemi with considerble heavier reciprocating assy wouldn't be any easier on this.
Makes sense. On my 496 I used studs, and would have put in a girdle if they had them at the time I built it. I also used lightweight JE pistons and Manley rods.
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  #10  
Old 10-30-2009, 11:54 PM
Paul Precht Paul Precht is offline
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Last Sunday at The Dutch Classic in PA, Jim Daniels Ran an 8.275 at 159 in his SS/AH 68 Dart. This is in legal NHRA trim as he set a record. This motor is said to have dynoed at 1250 plus HP, that is what these blocks are capable of enduring short term, Paul.
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  #11  
Old 10-31-2009, 06:48 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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What blocks are you referring to? This thread has touched on B/RB blocks and the new aluminum hemi blocks.
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  #12  
Old 10-31-2009, 07:17 AM
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Here's what I did with my wedge, also did a partial block fill, to the bottom of the ring travel.



I had the pan rail and main caps decked to the same height and instead of using the spacers and shims that came with the girdle I had the holes in the girdle inlarged and spacer made up that came up thru the girdle then tack welded the spacers directly to the girdle after the caps were torqued down. I quit keeping track of cost. By the time I did all this and bushed the lifter bores I'd of probably been better off getting a megablock or Indy. Time will tell.
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