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#1
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1967 charger 383 stroker
29 years old. Love classic cars. Know nothing about mopars or how to restore an old car. Been reading a lot and doing my research but still confused on what kind of intake manifold, carb, distributor, etc. to use for this 383 stroker (440 crank). Any words of wisdom???
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#2
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Immerse yourself
In the advice from this site. By all means, get a subscription to Mopar Muscle magazine. It's full of good advice, how-to articles, and good advertisers.
Like any project, it will require planning and organization. Are you doing a classic reto or building a racer? First, determine the condition of the body, and repair any rust damage. Put in frame connectors to strengthen the chassis. Remove all the old paint, apply etching primer, and under primer. Find some Mopar types where you live, and get to know them. They can be invaluable. Hook up with a reputable engine shop, tranny shop and parts house. There is no more valuable advice than that of those who have already learned what not to do, and what must be done. One bolt, nut and washer at a time! Remember, measure twice, cut once. Good results mean patience and lots of time. |
#3
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Off the top, you do not appear to be restoring the car. If you were restoring it, you wouldn't be building a stroker and wouldn't be using a different intake, carb, dist, ect.
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#4
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That is the way I bought the charger. The previous owner was a professional drag racer and was building this as a racer so that's why he stroked it with a tunnel ram, dbl carb and a huge high rise. All that was stolen and this is way it was when I made the purchase. I have no idea what to do with a 383 stroker so someone told me to get on this site to network with Mopar people since there are so few in my area....
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#5
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Thanks peg leg! I'm all in...
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#6
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Classic retro? What is that? Show car? I think I was going more for an American muscle look so maybe a racer I guess. The body is in very good shape. Barely any rust. Engine clean. Interior nice. 2 Back bucket bottom seats missing.
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#7
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For more racing and street peeling, go with a single plane intake and a double pumper carb in the 750 - 900 cfm range, for car shows and just cruising, dual plane intake, and 750 vacuum secondary carb. Distributor, go electric, factory, Mopar Performance, Mallory Unilight, or MSD. Headers, either TTI or Hookers.
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#8
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Valuable info here:
http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/index.html |
#9
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The first thing I'd do is try to find out what compression ratio it has, it sounds like it could be high. That'll determine what you can and can't do with it.
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#10
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You guys are awesome! Thank you so much for your feedback this is exactly what I need to get going. How do I figure out compression ratio and what will that determine?
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#11
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Hood scoop? Shaker? High rise? Which is most cost effective and more classic American muscle?
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#12
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Quote:
Now I know I'm going to get jumped on about this so- yes I know it is not accurate but it will give you a VERY rough idea of your ratio- do a compression test on all cylinders and average them, I see your elevation is about 400 feet, so divide by 15. Again a VERY rough idea and by far it would be better to do the measuring and get a accurate ratio. Next find out your cam specs, hopefully the guy will be able to tell you, if not check the end for a number, if you know the maker they'll be able to tell you, if not do a google search and you'll find instruction for measuring it. |
#13
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Knowing the new bore, stroke, piston volume, static compression ratio, and cam are all big things that will help. What heads are on it and how much machine work have they had.
As toad stated, get as much info as you can, from the prior owner. I still miss the Electro-luminescent instrument cluster from the '67 that I used to own. What color is yours? Is it an auto or a manual? If it is a manual, was it originally an auto? I ask as I sold mine just before I left Mather AFB, just up the highway from you. |
#14
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Thanks slingshot. That's what I've been leaning toward. Trying to figureout that stuff...
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#15
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thanks Ehostler for your interest in my newproject. I think they are morroso heads. I don't know how much machine work was done. I am going to call the mechanic next week with a list of questions that I am gathering from y'all and some friends here in my area. I'm still trying to find my way around the engine as I am a complete greenhorn when it comes to this stuff. Automatic. Just primed red and light blue. Going to paint it plum crazy purple!
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#16
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Moroso doesn't make cylinder heads. I'm guessing that you have a pair of Moroso valve covers on it.
When I sold my '67, she was the factory color of Bronze Metallic. She was a factory 383, 4 speed. When I got her, the engine was seized, so I dropped in the 383 that I had been running. I also dropped in a Dana 60. She would bark the tires, when I shifted into 3rd. |
#17
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Ya my bad those are the covers. Dude, your '67 sounds sick. That's what I want my baby to do. Dana 60?
When I'm cleaning all the pipes, axles, etc underneath her, just a regular degreaser spray is ok??? That what I used for the engine. |
#18
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Ya my bad those are the covers. Dude, your '67 sounds sick. That's what I want my baby to do. Dana 60?
When I'm cleaning all the pipes, axles, etc underneath her, just a regular degreaser spray is ok??? That what I used for the engine. |
#19
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It should be, but just to be safe test it on a small area of any paint your going to be hitting with it.
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#20
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Quote:
Dana 60 - Strongest production rear axle that you could get in a MOPAR. |
#21
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call ray barton
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#22
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Who is Ray Barton?
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#23
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10:1 no more than 11.5:1 compression ratio. Single or dual plane torker? Hp series 830 cfm? Msd elec. Distributor with box? Spark plugs?
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#24
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Edlebrock Dual plane torker? Hp series Double pumper 830 cfm carb? Msd elec. Distributor with box?
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