oil

[bulldog426]

what kind of oil would you recommend for engine assembly and break-in?? and what about after break in?? i was thinking about using royal purple after break-in

[peg leg]

If you built your engine, did the machining and assembly, I'd go with 5-30, with a good supplement like BD or Lucas oil stabilizer. The lack of protective minerals in our current crop of crap oils should be improved with additives.
if you had the machining and assembly done by a shop, ask them what they want you to break in with.
I'm staying with Valvloline oil and Lucas untill breakin is complete, then switching to Redline synthetic. I use Redline in my Cummins, and it is likely the best synthetic out there. Royal Purple is a good synthetic as well.

[Rich Kinsley]

Everyone says to be sure to use a zddp additive esp on break-in. GM's EOS is a preferred break-in additive. I have had a very hard time finding it but others say they get it. It's not cheap either.

My Ross pistons came with a break-in recommendation. They said to use 30wt non-detergent oil. I did it their way and of course changed the oil right after my initial break-in. That was about 3 years ago and about 4K miles. Everything is working great.

I was using the Rotella 20-50 but they've reduced the zddp so I switched to Valvoline VR-1 30wt racing oil. I prefer the straight grade oil. I don't take it out in bad weather anyway.

[Rich Kinsley]

I forgot to mention that I really like the synthetic oils but they are much too expensive for the way I use my car. I change the oil twice a year and that may only be a couple hundred miles. Or if I tear it apart it gets an oil change. I do like to mess with it :-) Back when the syn first came out I used it in a couple cars and found them to run much cooler and I think it helped the mileage too. I will not use it until the engine is well broken in nor will I use it in an old engine. The thinking here is that it lubes too well for break-in and cleans up the engine too well to use it in an old engine with sludge that can break loose and plug up an oil passage.

I use Mobil 1 syn ATF in my trans..

[4HUNTIN]

After breakin use a good detergent oil.
Add 1/2 a bottle of comp cams breakin lube.
At each change.
Works for me.
Steve

[bulldog426]

whats zddp??
what brands is what i'm talking about, i know some are good and some are crap, in my regular driver vehicle, i don't sweat too much over it, i'll usually run castrol or valvoline, but it isn't under the stress of what i put my race and hotrod engines through, nor is as expensive, or has as much sentimental value to me..
i've heard some say to run non-detergent.. why run 1/2 bottle of comp breakin at each oil chang steve??
wej run mobil1 10-30 in my dad's race car, even though the alky turns it to milk after about 5 minutes of running it, but that's what the engine builder reccommended, anybody have a recommended brand that will last longer with alky, because that gets old having to change oil every other trip to the race track...
doesn't anybody have any imput on what brands and types ie part synthetic, full synthetic, non synthetic, etc??
why is synthetic oil more expensive?? being it's non-petroleum seems like with the shortage of crude oil, the synthetic would be cheaper??

[Rich Kinsley]

Why does the alky cause the milky condition. I assume it's washing the cylinder walls and leaking past the rings into the oil. If so is that a normal scenario for alky? I recommend the Valvoline VR-1 racing oil.

ZDDP is an additive that contains zinc which is a cam/lifter lubricant. It helps create a cushion as I understand it. The government is taking it out of oils what with the eco stuff and the manufacturers don't care because the roller lifters/rockers of the modern engines don't really take the beating of a flat tappet system and are OK without the extra lubricant. It is a critical element of lubrication for our solid and hydraulic flat tappet engines.

I am using the Royal Purple gear lube in my 489 rear w/3:91 SG. I don't think it's a bad deal to use the synthetics and I think they are probably fairly equal to each other but they are pricey due to the process to make them I guess. I'd probably use the Royal Purple if I were to go that route.

[4HUNTIN]

Comp cams breakin lube has the zinc
they've taken out of most oils.
Steve

[DartGT66]

Regular mineral oil, if using a flat tappet cam zinc additive, once heat cycled once I'll switch to synthetic 5W40.

[toad490]

Royal Purple makes a mineral based break in oil. If your going to use Royal Purple that's the route I'd go, and is the route I'm going with mine. It has the Zinc for a flat tappet cam.