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Old 02-28-2010, 12:44 PM
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Default installing bb girdle

i got one of the 440 source main girdles, and was wondering if anyone had installed one of these before, and if you have any words of wisdom, and pics?? i'm also wondering how to remove the main studs already in my block, and how to reinstall the ones with the girdle, and how to tighten it down
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bulldog426 View Post
i got one of the 440 source main girdles, and was wondering if anyone had installed one of these before, and if you have any words of wisdom, and pics?? i'm also wondering how to remove the main studs already in my block, and how to reinstall the ones with the girdle, and how to tighten it down
A stud removal tool works best if your saving the studs. To install the new ones use a bottoming style thread cleanup tap on the threads and just thread them in finger tight.

Here's a picture of how I had mine done. I had the bottom rail and main caps decked to the same level.

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Old 02-28-2010, 07:45 PM
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i'm still using my stock main caps, so the gap between the main cap and the girdle do i put the shims between there??
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:45 PM
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Yes shim the main cap/girdle gap. You can use 2 nuts on the studs to remove: Locknut method---thread them both on, hold lower nut and tighten top onto lower. Now you can use the wrench on the lower to unscrew the stud.
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Old 02-28-2010, 09:33 PM
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i'm still using my stock main caps, so the gap between the main cap and the girdle do i put the shims between there??
BD, you install the main cap as normal, then on top of the nut a hardened washer then shims up too the bottom of the girdle, on the top of the girdle a hardened washer then a nut and torque to spec.
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Old 02-28-2010, 11:54 PM
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i figured it out, i got the studs in, and nuts and shims, tomorrow i'm gonna finish up.
after i took the nuts off the studs that were in it, i could take off the studs by finger, they were just finger tight except for one or two of em.. should that have been a concern?? i used the double nut method to put in the girdle studs, and put em in pretty snug
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:10 AM
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The instructions with my girdle and from ARP says the studs should be put in finger tight, same with the instructions for my head studs.

Here's a direct quote from ARP.

The studs should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. An undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force
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Old 03-05-2010, 12:07 AM
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i used the Chenoweth girdle (gearsandrears.com) on a couple engines and although better than nothing i finally got sick of never being able to completely stop the tiny little oil leaks that occur around the oil pan studs. also, after running hard for a summer, you can still see the little "weld" marks on the bottom of the caps and block so the caps are still moving a bit. this year i'm not using a girdle but the Milodon billet caps, they say they are stronger than stock caps with a girdle and won't allow cap walk. we'll see...............djs
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:57 AM
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Have you used Ally main caps? I know DartGT66 and many othes have used them with good results. I add the girdle to mine just as an added percaution.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:07 PM
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never heard of 'em. got a website?......djs
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Old 03-06-2010, 01:56 AM
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i can't find my instructions for my girdle, and i don't remember seeing that about just finger tight on the studs anybody know what it says for the 440source girdle on the studs??

i don't see how aluminum can be stronger than steel, because any other time aluminum is weaker than steel, at least when it's the same thickness and whatnot
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Old 03-06-2010, 02:20 AM
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Aluminum caps will allow for some flex, which keeps the block from cracking...
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:30 AM
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Here's a good link, Indy also makes them, that's what I have in mine. I like BCR's better but they didn't make them when I got mine.

http://www.bcrproducts.com/maincaps.html


440source also has them, here's a quote from them.

While our girdle setup does work great with factory main caps, if you want the absolute ultimate in strength, (short of an aftermarket block) we also offer our girdle with our 200-1094 aftermarket 7075 billet aluminum main caps! (shown here.) We are even offering a "package deal" where you can get even more of a discount off of these items if you order our girdle and main caps together!
In Stock


BD426, cinching down your studs defeats the purpose of them, your just turning them into bolts. Call 440 or Google ARP main stud installation instructions and I think you'll find that finger tight is the way to go, as you said the ones in your block were.
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Old 03-06-2010, 03:17 PM
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so being as they have been tightened, would the studs be stretched too far?? and need new studs? or think i can just back these off, and reinstall??
i just got the kit without the caps because i didn't wanna have to spend that extra 3-400 bucks to get it linehoned again, and block has block filler, and it says on the paperwork they have tested them girdles like that up to 900hp, and i don't plan on making that much power, don't have pockets that deep, so the girdle i got is good for 900, and the most i may make eventually may be 750-800..
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Old 03-06-2010, 03:28 PM
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Oh I don't think you would of hurt them at all. I'd just back em off.
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:45 PM
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awesome!!!
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