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#1
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unsticking throttle plates
ive got a box of old holleys in storage. after getting more and more frustrated with the 850 dbl pumper on my duster, i went to see what i had.
the two that look to best suit my application are these: 1. 330-2 vacuum secondary, 750 CFM, dual metering blocks, center hung float bowls. the secondarys are siezed up. water got in my box. ive been soaking it in the parts washer for a few days, but nothing so far. 2. a carb from a 383 4 speed challenger. from the same box. same problem with the secondaries. im uncertain of the CFM rating on this carb, but would guess that if i rebuild it and get it running well, its valuable. so, how would i unstick these? my thought was if the parts washer doesnt work, heating them up with a propane torch. any other ideas? Michael |
#2
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I'd try
Pulling the fasteners that hold them to the shafts, and remove the shafts. Then you should be able to jiggle(Highly technical term) the butterflies loose.
Sounds like they are elctrolysis welded to the bores from water. |
#3
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penetrating oil. I had a frozen 750 DP, gt it cheap and my mechanic said let me have it for 2 weeks. He squirted liqued wrench on it -, gently tried to move the linkage after every shift and let it sit, after a few days he could get some movement, soon he got full movement and was able to cycle the butterflys in a normal fashion. He strongly dismissed the idea of removing the butterflys and shaft as you rarely get the things back together as designed. Have patience and penetrating oil. Solvent will not free a bound part, only penetrating oil or force. Look up Biggs penetrating oil, its great stuff. Actually it is called Gibbs. http://www.getgibbs.com/ and I hear the stuff is so penetrating, that they had to design a new aerosol valve to keep the stuff in the can!
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#4
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coca cola have done wonders for me:-)
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#5
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I used plane seltzer on an old holly once (only because that's what was here). It worked well without the "sticky" that you get with Coke. After which a good spray with some carb cleaner and a stiff bristle brush removed the small ridge that was left in the bore.
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#6
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I'm with pishta on this. Let the parts soak in penetrating oil as long as it takes, at least until the fasteners holding the plates to the shaft can be removed without destroying the slot or hex, but I think I'd rather have the whole assembly free to rotate first, then disassemble and clean the parts.
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#7
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I agree............
most problems are from different metals. But this is not a major problem. penetrating oils are the best solvent. This is the best result I have found. I use KANO SiliKroil
The Oil that creeps, ,,,,,.Pllus Silicrone This stuff is limited for access but bitching. 1.16 ounces cost 17-to 18 dollars. But it is really good stuff. |
#8
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chuck it in a bucket of diesel,and leave it for a week,if that don't work,put it back in the bucket and light it up!
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