electrical demons

[crashing513]

trouble with my 73 dart again had a mix up i think with alt at parts store is a 65 amp alt to much.and now must play with left turn singal to start car. if not will not start,unless you cross over start relay im need a stick off dynamite

[Rich Kinsley]

Do you have an automatic? Is it a column shift? It sounds like a neutral safety switch issue. Is the neutral safety switch wire still attached to the starter relay? On mine it's a brown wire at the top right, I think. I'm thinking that maybe the neutral safety switch on the column shift is in the column as opposed to being on the trans like mine. The adjustment may be off on the safety switch or it may be bad. That may explain the turn signal wiggling to start it.

[peg leg]

Should be on the trans. Wiggling the turn signal stalk indicates that there is a wiring issue inside the column, which could start a fire. I'd take it apart PDQ!
A 65 amp alternator is fine, as long as the charge wire size is correct. Look up copper wire current capacity on the web. I'm thinking AWG 10 will handle 65 amps.

[crashing513]

the ? about the alt was my gage goes to 40 in the car. i started the car pegged gage, after few minutes my 1500cca battery was bubbling? my trans neutral shift has been wired to-geather because of newer trans havet changed out plug.on a total WIERD thing, after removing the horn assmbly there were bible virses on very old printed paper dated from a person in 196?.

[fat 360]

Whoa,me thinks ya regulator is stuck on "full open"mode,and that's cooking everything else,and starting the rest of your probs by doin it!

[ehostler]

Yep, that is a regulator or regulator wiring issue. If one of the alt leads is internally shorted to ground, you could get the same problem.

[crashing513]

i put a new voltage reg on with alt

[ehostler]

It wouldn't be the first time that a new regulator was faulty. The fact is, what you described is an alt that is in full charge. There are only a few reasons that can happen. The first is a faulty regulator. The second is an internal short in the alt. The third is a shorted wire, between the regulator and the alt.

[crashing513]

man i hope its the volt reg. is there any way of running a wire from alt to reg bipassing harness and so witch one

[crashing513]

got charging system straight. now figuring why turn signal must be on to start.plug under dash is cracked and a burn mark on it. i went and look at possible replacement colume but it is about the same burn wise.is that a common thing?

[peg leg]

Is experiencing common old car electrical problems. For your safety, and the sake of the car, remove all the old wiring and bulkhead connectors, and get an aftermarket wiring chassis and eliminate your future fire.
It's less expensive than your life and the life of the car.
I strongly suggest Ron Francis wiring.

[Rich Kinsley]

I used Ron Francis on my '64 Dodge. A very nice product. But you need to have a wiring diagram to use in conjunction with the harness info. They do not supply a wiring diagram and it is a bit too generic to use stand alone. You will be installing some GM parts such as high beam dimmer switch and headlight switch and the column hook-up can use some tweaking. The dash hook-up is very challenging and you have to use some smarts to hook-up to the printed circuit board decently. I found some pins at Radio Shack that worked perfect to accomplish that task. If you are knowledgeable and can read a diagram you will have a good outcome and the system will help your whole car.

Other systems such as Painless are quite all right too. One of the advantages of these systems is the color coded/identified wires which really help you trace everything and get it right. If I could produce all the colored wires and the tags I'd have preferred doing my own.

[peg leg]

My Ron Francis was simple to install, as was the one we put in a friend's hot rod. The directions included with the kit were correct, and easy to understand. Even the ignition hookup was made for Mopar.
If you order the kit for your brand car/truck, it seems to be well done. If you order a generic kit, maybe not so easy.
There does not seem to be a better chassis than RF, either.

[Rich Kinsley]

I loved the fuse box set-up. It's really neat clean and well identified with room to expand. That was THE best part.

It had the provisions for my electric fuel pump and radiator fan, etc.. I ran a spare wire to the trunk for a trunk light and one for a third brake light. I also threw in a spare for ???? in the future. Very convenient.

[crashing513]

thanks for all the help guys. but im beside my self now cant even get it to start now even with a differnt colume installed. connecters cracked black melted, im needing to find a site, person company that sells a remain factory harness or somthing.or im going to some thing drastic. i dont want to loose intrest in this car.

[peg leg]

You are flirting with a serious fire with the old stock wiring. Throw it all away, get a Ron Francis Express Wiring kit and fix your problem.
The fact that all your charge current is running through your dash's ammeter is bad enough. You have serious issues everywhere else. Forget a new harness, it will have the same issues. This is experience talking here. Get the RF catalog, or log onto his site, and read the facts. See what you get, why it works, and how easy it is to be safe. Melted connectors is a great big sign glowing "danger".

[Rich Kinsley]

Be sure to do away with the ammeter and replace it with a voltmeter.

[crashing513]

well iv got a old new still in box, ignition switch/turn signal haness coming.got a new oem remain engine bay harness coming from "laysons mopar restore".it will be easier for me to enstall than the others, and price wise.the factory one had many problems.im also getting a dash/fuse box harness from a donar car.this is were my main problems are were stearing colume harness meat fuse box harness. makes my almost cry dealing with thes electrical poblems on such a nice car

[crashing513]

can any body tell me what the electrical device is that when you turn the key in the the colume it connects to this piece witch has the main wires leading down coulume. were can i find one "part number?"