Fresh engine start-up

[Gromski]

Help me with my first fresh engine start-up;
383 stock bore lightly honed
new cam bearings
connecting rod beaings
main bearings
new pistons and rings
9.6-1 CR
heads done 3 angle
new guides
new valves
high volume oil pump

How about cam break-in
How about engine break-in in a car that will be strip only.
Torque converter has a qt. of B&M trickshift in it,
Trans is full.
Motor oil Castrol 10-30 non-synthetic.
How do you set an initial timing setting.
Any info is appreciated.
This is a new cam.



[This message has been edited by Gromski (edited February 15, 2000).]

[340king]

Are you breaking in a new cam? I didn't see one listed in your post. This is probably the single most important reason for any particular routine.

I break in all my eninges as if they were new cam installations. This gets the engine and oil up to temperature. It also gives me time to check for leaks and other problems. I time them during the break in. I use 36° of total advance in my small blocks.

I did break in one engine on the dyno. That is wild. We just started it up, took it to the 2500 rpm range, set the timing, got the oil to temp and started making low rpm pulls(3000-5000 rpm) for 25+ min. Then we re-torqued the heads, put in the inner valve springs, adjusted the valves and thrashed on it. I don't remember if we changed the oil right away or not, usually I do. I usually run EOS in the oil during the break in period

[MopART@hm]

Make sure you have good oil pressure, a cool enough water temp, set your timing. While the motor runs for a few minutes while you're checking for leaks and adjusting everything, reach over and rap on the throttle every few minutes. This will ensure that you're splashing oil up to the top of the motor.

Take it to the track and do a burn-out then just back out of the water box wait a few minutes and do it again and just back out- keep your rpms under 5000. Don't know when the guys at your track will let you do this, but try to time it during a test and tune. On the third trip to the box, turn it up to your desired burn-out as you would normally do.

Take it down the track and drive it like you stole it. Now you're ready !!

[Christopher]

Here's how we do it... I belive the most important thing is pre-lubing the engine.We use a shaft to spin the oil pump and make sure we have adequate pressure,install the distributor and oil pump drive and get ready to fire it up.Upon starting,we usually will set the idle speed to 2500, and both my Dad and I will eyeball the engine for leaks,check oil pressure etc.After 15 minutes of this,we back the throttle down to 1500rpm's for another 10 minutes or so and check the timing.We usually will crack the throttle a couple of times to see how it sounds,then set idle speed and mix,and then shut it down.We let it completly cool-dead cold naturally.At the track,we will skip the burnout,leave at idle and bring up to 4000 rpm's only during shifting.Then repeat at 5000,and at 6000.Then a burnout and time to race.Sounds like a lot of work.But I'll say this,the 383 in my Demon is 7 years old and has no more than 5% leakage on any cylinder,and the old 440 had no more than 7% leakage.The 440 we raced for 5 years.Don't get me wrong,I'm not saying my way is the best way,or that anyone else's way is wrong,it's just the way we've always done it.It's kind of like motor oil...everybody has their favorite.Also, I don't remember which distributor or ign setup you are using.If it's the Mopar setup,the race dist has the advance in by 1200,so I'd put a timing tape on and we usually set our big blocks to 38 degrees max at 1500rpm.

[This message has been edited by Christopher (edited February 15, 2000).]

[360duster]

If you have electronic ign. turn the engine by hand to where the line on the damper is at 5degrees btdc on the timing indicator or cover whichever.now line the reluctor in the dist up exactly with the pick up coil.unhook the vacum advance.i`m assuming that you already have the #1 piston on the compression stroke & the dist. rotor pointing toward the #1 plug wire on the cap.This should give you 30-32 degrees total timing which is enough for breakin period.Follow the cam instructions on breaking it in.If you do the burnout method as mentioned get some water & do it in the driveway so if you have other problems with the car you can correct them before you go to the strip (might save some embarrasment).forgot to mention that you should prelube the engine with a drill & shaft that will be long enough to reach the oil pump.I think you`ll have to put it in reverse (counter clockwise for big block i think i only mess with small blocks).If you can`t get the prelube shaft,remove the spark plugs & turn the engine over with the starter to prelube the engine.You`ll need 7-8 quarts of fluid if the trans. was dry.this is total for the convertor & trans.hope this helps.I just read christopher`s reply & i would follow his method for breaking in the engine.It is similar to what i do except i do it before i go to the track.I live in a rural area & i know the trooper that works the area.

[This message has been edited by 360duster (edited February 15, 2000).]

[Tim_K]

Here's something that no one else has mentioned.
On your transmission, start the engine up with the trans. in Neutral. This will let the converter fill with fluid and cycle through the cooler, bearings, etc. If you have a shift kit that provides lube in Park, you may not need to do this. If you have a stock valve body, start up in Neutral. You can tell if your valve body flows fluid in Park. Unhook one of the cooler lines at the radiator with the trans. in Park, engine idling, and see if any fluid starts to flow out.

[AJ]

I to believe in priming my engines with a drill and priming shaft from MP. Then install the distriburtor and fire it up. It is very important to keep the RPM's at 2500 or more to properly break in a new cam. You should be able to set the timing to 32-34 with the motor at 2500 RPM's then keep a look out for leaks. Good luck with the new motor.

[Hemi Mike]

Since the car is stationary and pulling at least 2000rpm for 20min, I like to run water from the garden hose through the radiator during the break in period.

[Belvedere65]

I fire engine at home & run for a few minutes to make sure there are no leaks etc.Make sure to prime with primeing shaft & electric drill that has reverse on it. Load car & breakin is done at track. With car on jack stands, I run engine & 2500/3000 rpm for 1/2 hr. or so. Also have car in gear during last 5/10 min. of breakin to lube trans & rear end. Next I check the valvelash again, make sure everything looks fine & make first pass. 1st pass is run & 4/4500 through the gears, 2nd is from 55/6000 rpm. One more check of valves,leaks etc. A full burnout is next & then a full pass, which in my case means 6500 in 1st, 6500 in 2nd, & through the traps @ 67/6800.

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BFRACN