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#1
06-28-2010, 06:07 PM
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vp m5??
thinkin bout swapping to vp m5 in my dads' cuda, currently runs on the m1, running a 360 magnum, with iron r/t heads, .530 lift hyd roller cam, stock stroke mp forged crank, srp pistons, mp forged ibeam rods, 13:1 compression was running 10.5s on the motor with alot of blowby, looked at the heads and it didn't have valveseals installed, just had an o-ring on each valvestem, and really weak valvesprings, pressure tested the springs and they were about equivelent to stock, don't know if they got weak or if they were running stock, or not much over stock springs... we re-ringed the engine, gonna rebuild the carb, installed valveseals, new springs, gonna put on some wider tires to put more rubber on the ground, so it should pick up a little time... and thinking about running the m5 for the increase in power and the lesser fumes, what kind of timing/jet changes should be done to run the m5 if any?? jet up or down?? retard or advance on timing? what kind of et should be picked up with the new springs, new rings, and valve seals?? what should be expected with that plus the switch to m5??
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#2
06-29-2010, 08:39 PM
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so nobody knows anything a bout the m5?
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#3
06-30-2010, 12:44 AM
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what the heck is an M5, besides a BMW?
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#6
06-30-2010, 09:17 AM
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Glad to see that I'm not the only one lost on this one.... About the equivalent to V-techin, or referring to an engine by terms such as LS1 or SR20DET. LOL
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#10
06-30-2010, 06:49 PM
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Oh gotcha it is making more sense now.. If you're talking about switching over to Alky, then you need to do the standard things, such as correct fuel line, pump, gaskets, and get an Alky Carb... You cannot just run it through a standard carb and get the results you are looking for. However the rest of your setup is begging for Alcohol, such as 13.1 compression, Iron Heads, and mild camshaft... yes switch over you won't be sorry, unless you are looking for good fuel mileage... LOL
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#11
06-30-2010, 09:23 PM
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I swapped to E-85. You need to change metering blocks in the carb with alcohol ready gaskets, Fuel filter for gas/ alcohol and advance timing (about 3-5 degrees) and you are good to go. (Assuming you are already using 1/2" fuel lines.) Allot cheaper and very forgiving fuel on setup. Methanol is more corrosive, expensive and not necessary for 13:1. Again fuel mileage will suffer a bit with E-85. The motor runs a little cooler but for Mississippi should be a plus. If your area doesn't have much for E-85 supply you may want to reconsider. But my experience was E-85 ran better than 100 octane fuel for 451 at 12.5:1 comp.
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#12
06-30-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
M1™ M1 Racing Methanol has a 99.95% minimum purity - the highest purity available in the U.S. With M1, engines run cooler and are less subject to corrosion. VP uses only lined drums which prohibit rust, corrosion and metal deposits that can contaminate fuel delivery systems. Recommended for all methanol-legal racing applications. M3™ Like M1, M3 starts with methanol of the highest purity, but includes lubrication and combustion additives for an extra boost. M3 offers a wider range of jetting options, making jetting easier and more consistent. For bracket racers, variations in ET from run to run will be substantially reduced. With better tuning and cleaner, more efficient combustion, M3 makes more power and yields better throttle response than any standard methanol on the market. M3's improved combustion also reduces the noxious fumes associated with methanol fuels, so it's much easier on the eyes and nose. For 60-70% of methanol applications, M3 won't require jetting or timing changes-just pour it in and get an immediate performance improvement in all areas. In the other 30-40%, M3's added vaporization may actually hurt volumetric efficiency and performance, which is what lead to the development of M5. M3 is not pureethanol and won't pass a water test. mNew! M5™ M5 is simply the best performing methanol on the market. With its upgraded combustion additives, M5 will make more power than M3, i.e., 5-7% more power than standard methanol, while offering the same or better protection against detonation. Like M3, M5's improved vaporization offers a wider acceptable range of air/fuel ratios and tuning. It also yields faster combustion speeds which lead to closer EGT's from cylinder to cylinder, providing more consistent performance from run to run. M5 is not pure methanol and won't pass a water test. wondering for one what kind of et increase to expect by us re-ringing the motor and installing proper valvesprings, and valveseals, the car had sat in a barn for about 3 years and the rings weren't sealing, car was smoking going down the track, the guy we got it from ran 1/8th mile in it, never ran the quarter, ran 10.5s for us smoking, and still was running slower through the 1/8th mile than what it was for the other guy with a fresh engine, plus it had basically stock valvesprings so i imagine it was getting some valve float, so should pick up some more from that, and a 5-7% increase from running m5 over standard m1 methanol, what kind of et to expect then?
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#13
06-30-2010, 11:40 PM
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haha, I was thinking in your first post you meant the M1 intake.... Not fuel... sorry for the cornfusion.. oh wait that would be E85
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#15
07-01-2010, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
haha ray, very funny.... are you trying to be a butthole?? i can't help it, when us mississippi boys hit that bottle and eat too much cornbread and collard greens it goes to our heads, and breathin in all that swamp gas affects brain development...
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#16
07-01-2010, 10:02 PM
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NO DUDE I was making a joke... Get it CORNFUSION = Ethanol (E85)...
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#17
07-02-2010, 06:58 PM
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Up here in corn country E-85 is everywhere at about $2 per gal. I really like it. However like ALL alcohol you make less power per cc of fuel then gasoline. Thus the poorer fuel mileage. The plus side is alcohol it can be compressed higher before auto detonation thus ideal for racing. The M5 fuel is only making more power because of the additives. I'm guessing that stuff costs a bit. It still comes down to the rule of thumb and that is to use as low of octane as you can. Use less alcohol as you can. Because of the 15% gas in E-85 it makes more BTUs per cc then pure alcohol thus more power. I don't know how gas and methanol would do mixed. But somewhere there in the middle would be the ideal fuel for a 13:1 comp motor.
If you don’t believe me take a small jar of methanol and throw it in to a fire. then do the same with 87 octane gasoline. My recommendation is don't be standing there when the gas goes off. Of course like I mentioned additives does change the equation. (For any children reading: DONT THROW ANY FUEL IN OPEN FLAME PIT!)
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#18
07-03-2010, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
it's a drag car so not worried about fuel mileage, i may get 2 runs out of 5 gallons of gas if i'm lucky sometimes 3, depends on how much of a burnout i do... my ole man will just smoke em down a little bit, i like to do the john force burnouts, i usually have to fan the door to get the tiresmoke out the cab so i can see the tree lol.... tryin to get her to go a little faster, i may even see if the oleman will let me put my sniper kit on it... you do make less power per cc, but that's why them alcohol engines burn at least twice as much fuel as a gas burner, don't think you can mix methanol with gas they stay seperated from one another. a higher octane fuel will flash less when throwing it on a fire, take regular 87 octane fuel, throw it on a fire, it will flash like hell, take some high octane race fuel throw it on the fire it don't flash as much.. back when i ran demo derbies i would run high octane fuel it may not run as good with the engine cool, but when i would lose the radiator and it would get redhot it would run like a sewing machine reason being a low octane fuel would ignite inside the cylinder by hitting the hot cylinder walls, the high octane fuel wouldn't.. sorry my wording may not make much sense but it's late, tired, half drunk, can't quiet think straight lol...
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