Torque

[bbaspense]

I have a 1965 Chrysler Windsor with a 361/727/ 8 3/4

It has the stock pistons, 383 magnum cam, points ignition,Mallory Hyfire 1 igntion, Crane PS-91 coil, M-1 dual plane intake with cross over still functioning, 600 holley, 452 heads, log manifolds, dual exhaust with dynomax super turbo mufflers, stock torque converter

with 2.76 gears I have run 16.49 @86.

My question is.. what is the best way to make more torque?

[peg leg]

Talking developing here, electronic ignition from Mopar and TTI headers. Getting the torque to work means axle ratio. That ratio is the torque multiplier. You need more in the 3.55 to 4.11 region. Street use and highway use dictate less than 4.11. Your car is heavy, and all the ratio in the world is not going to make it a 13 second car without serious engine work. A 3.55 would be fun and streetable, and probably in the low 15's.

[bbaspense]

TTI headers are not in the budget... but I am thinking about Headman Shorties Headers as I heard they fit well in a C...

I'm not looking to make it a drag car.. just more usable torque ..

The 3.55's are in the works for next year with a Detroit Locker..

[nhdriver]

The 3:55's will make a world of difference. Why spend all that $$ for a locker? A mopar sure grip or an Auburn Diff. would surely be less expensive. A locker isn't needed in your street car, the locker is overkill.

[bbaspense]

True... I ran 12's on a sure-grip at 4000 lbs

[Paul Precht]

If you put unmilled 452 heads on a stock 361 with a Felpro style gasket, your comp ratio is about 7.5, you're loosing a lot of torque that way. A 3.55 gear would make a huge difference. Try milling the heads about .020" and using a steel shim gasket, that will raise a full point or so.

[bbaspense]

I could always put the big exhaust valve in the 516's and throw them back on..

[ehostler]

If you go with the larger exhaust valves, make sure you get the hardened seats installed. That will protect you against the unleaded gas.

[bbaspense]

The more I think of it.. I shouldn't need the big exhaust valve.. it is only 361 CI..

The plans so far are a 1 Inch spacer, H-pipe and HP manifolds.. if I can find gears in my price range I will put them in.. otherwise the 2.76 will have to stay for now..

[John Kunkel]

You basically negated all the other mods when you put the 452 heads on it and the 2.76 gears will kill performance no matter what else you do.

[Ray Bell]

From experiences that have been related to me, a good man tinkering over your engine on a chassis dyno will make a significant difference.

[rampage_82]

If you can get a set of long tube headers will also make a big difference... Manifolds of any type kill performance...

[cudabob496]

A good 2500 to 3500 stall converter will double the torque to the
rear wheels!

Next best way: More displacement!

[Rich Kinsley]

[QUOTE=bbaspense;815804]The more I think of it.. I shouldn't need the big exhaust valve.. it is only 361 CI..

The plans so far are a 1 Inch spacer,

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The spacers work really well for me. My situation is different though but I still think you will gain from the spacers. I had Swirl Torque spacers but I found the aluminum to be a detriment in that even with gaskets my carbs were running 180deg in the bowls. My older style manifold didn't have phenolic or wood spacers available so I built my own. After the installation my carbs run 110deg at the bowls. That's a very significant change!

I used 3 pieces of 1/2" MDX plywood with the paper backing sanded off. Then we glued the 3 pieces together with glue a friend recommended. Then I bored the venturi to match the swirl torque and coated the venturi area with POR15. The main body I sprayed with Dupli-color clear high heat engine enamel.

They have been on about 3 years now and I did remove them for inspection. They look like new still. Kinda tedious but satisfying!

[bbaspense]

COOL.. thanks for the advice.

I am thinking of running with the heat cross over blocked.. won't that reduce the temperature going into the aluminum spacer?

[mtdrydock]

look into Richmond Gear Powertrax. A buddy of mine swears by them. They apparently give more traction than Limited Slip without being full locker or spooled.

Check them out on the web, the videos they have will make you a believer too.

richmondgear.com/powertrax/noslip.html

[bbaspense]

I will check into that.. thanks

[crisser]

The only way to make more torque while keeping the gears, stall and CID the same is to get the cyls. to fill faster/more at low rpm.
The way I see it is to do it with cam and intake manifold. One would run a small runner intake with a new fast ramp cam.

[Rich Kinsley]

Originally Posted by bbaspense

COOL.. thanks for the advice.

I am thinking of running with the heat cross over blocked.. won't that reduce the temperature going into the aluminum spacer?

Yup. I sealed up my crossover too.

[cudabob496]

best bang for buck!
Lowering air inlet temp by 50 degrees, gives about 7.5% power increase!
On a 400 hp engine, thats 30 hp!!
Thats why cold air intakes are so popular!

http://ramairbox.com/

[bbaspense]

Now if I run a cold air tube to the front of the car that should further reduce the temps in the carb and should help quite a bit over the hot air under the hood.

BTW.. anyone ever blocked off the heat crossover on a stock pan? What would be the best way to do that without having to buy the pan with the crossover already blocked?

[adodgemann]

BTW.. anyone ever blocked off the heat crossover on a stock pan? What would be the best way to do that without having to buy the pan with the crossover already blocked?[/QUOTE]

I cut some pieces of sheet metal to fit the hole, about the same thickness as the intake gasket. Held it in place with a very thin bead of RTV...

[bbaspense]

basically it is held in place between the valley pan and the intake to keep it from moving?

[adodgemann]

yes, I use the steel valley pan/intake gasket only...no paper gasket

[bbaspense]

Originally Posted by Rich Kinsley

Yup. I sealed up my crossover too.

What did you use to seal that up.. is that some sort of epoxy and Metal?