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#1
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Timing S/B from scratch
I am getting ready to fire up a new 340. When checking the timing I found that the slot in the oil pump driveshaft is not lined up with the first front bolt of the intake manifold on the drivers side with #1 cylinder at TDC. It apparently was put in just one tooth off which when the distributor is intalled the rotor cap is pointing at #8 cylinder terminal on the distributor. Can't I just move the spark plug wires one terminal around clockwise on the distributor so the rotor cap is pointing at the #1 terminal which should make the firing order correct.
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#2
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As long as the wires will reach, put them in any position you like; the slot orientation is only a recommendation.
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#3
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As John noted above..does not matter..as long as #1 on the cap line up with the rotor when the engine is at #1 ...does not matter.
but if it keeps you awake at night...take big flat screw driving and turn the intermediate shaft clock wise and move it to where you want it... |
#4
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There are a few reasons why there's a "spec" on how the drive gear/ dist is installed, and on most engines hasn't got squat to do with "how it runs."
The assembly line folks can "wrench, repeat." Precut plug wires 'lay' well on the engine. Tune up mechanics "see" what they expect. There ARE engines that matter. Odd/ even fire V6's are one ONE thing you should do, is make SURE the timing marks are actually correct. Make or buy a positive stop: http://www.jerrybramlett.net/images/...stallation.jpg Make sure the piston is clear, remove the battery ground, and install the stop in no1. Gently wrench the engine around until it stops, and make a temporary mark on the balancer right under the TDC mark on the pointer. Do the same thing CCW. Now you'll have two temporary marks some distance apart. True TDC is halfway between. Then, if the valve covers are off, bump the engine until both no1 valves are closed, and the marks come up to say, 10 BTC. Drop in the dist, in your case, "as close as you can get" and adjust the dist so the points "just open" or if breakerless, so the reluctor center core is right on the star wheel. Wherever the rotor points, (in your case) is no 1 If the covers are on, stick your finger in no1, bump over until you start to feel compression, and then watch for the marks to come up, again, about 10BTC or so, and do your thing with the dist. Once you learn to do this, the engine should start as if it'd been parked overnight. |
#5
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It isn't hard to realign the distributor gear. Just pull it up (it'll turn), move it one tooth and put it back in. Might take some trial & error to get it exactly "right" but it is easy to move it if you really want to. And not necessary, as stated by John, etc...
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Thanks for the info. I thought it was okay as long as #1 plug was lined up with #1 cylinder at TDC. I should be almost ready to fire it up. Need to put spark plugs in, bleed the hydraulic clutch and tighten fan belt and should be good to go. Thanks again
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#9
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As 440roadrunner said,put your finger in the sparkplug hole on number1 hole and turn crank till you feel compression,then move crank till tdc comes up on damper.Pull dist. and move gear to correct position.Install dist. and position so that it points to number 1. HAPPY NEW YEAR
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#10
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It works well for the vacuum pot clearance too. Sometimes you get the dizzy in and lined up and you got no room to advance/retard as the pot is hitting the firewall. Well, if its going into a 32 Coupe, you probably have loads of room!
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#11
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I just had to move my Plug wires around clockwise 1 terminal and I checked for clearance when turning the distributor to retard or advance the timing. It looks good. Thanks
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