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Old 06-21-2011, 10:37 AM
Green66 Green66 is offline
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Default Techline air cure ceramic header coating

Buying a new set of Hedman fenderwell headers for my 66 valiant. I found this Techline Black Satin Air cure ceramic coating that Speedway sells. I am very interested, ceramic coat my headers for $50. Has anyone used this stuff? I cant find many reveiws of it but it is supposed to be good to 1800 degrees with proper surface prep.
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:00 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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I'm not familiar with it either. I would think it would be worth a try though. A friend of mine used some 400deg stainless steel spray paint on his stock exhaust manifold and it has held up for about 3 years so far. I know that the heat can sure eat up paint but that's cheap enouogh to give it a try and will look no worse than it would anyway if it starts to deteriorate.
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:09 PM
Green66 Green66 is offline
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Default Techline

I suppose I will probably try it unless I hear somthing horrible about it for $50 its worth a shot I will post pics when I am done.
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:56 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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my guess is won't work well, but I hope I'm wrong.

seems baked on would be more durable
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:59 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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This product has been available for over 15 years. If the headers are prepared as per their instructions and then the paint is properly cured, it should last a good long time. It has been tested to 2,400 F with no issues. Higher temps will cause it to dull.

Quote:
Pre-clean all parts. Remove all oil, grease, dirt, moisture or other contaminates.

Sandblast utilizing 120 grit aluminum oxide or similar hard sharp material such as silica sand or garnet (DO NOT USE GLASSBEAD) @35 PSI in a suction type cabinet. You may use 100 grit on exhaust ports.

Remove all blasting residue or oil from hands if handling the parts after blasting/etching. It is best to handle with hooks or clean cotton gloves.

Apply the coating. For best results use a gravity feed (top feed) detail touch up type gun with a nozzle size of less than 1MM. Either standard of HVLP, though an airbrush works quite well. Apply coatings at 30 to 35 PSI for solvent born coatings or 50 to 60 PSI for water born coatings. Film thickness will vary from .0003” to 0015”. All coatings should go on with a wet appearance. Multiple coats are not necessary and are wasteful. Coating should be applied in a spray booth with proper ventilation. Use appropriate chemical respirators when spraying solvent born coatings. When spraying water born coatings it is best to wear a respirator as well to avoid breathing fine particulate matter and mists as some contain a small amount of acid. Always consulate the MSDS.

Inspect parts for complete coverage and for runs or other indications of improper coverage.

For most coatings simply allow 5 to 15 minutes at room temperature for drying. All water born coatings may need a little heat to accelerate water evaporation. Install on vehicle, as the coating will cure with exhaust heat.

CAUTION: Excessive exhaust heat due to a poorly tuned engine can damage the coating during the cure period. Do not install on a new engine until all adjustments have been made to the valves, timing and jetting. Allow the engine to idle, or drive gently for approximately 30 minutes or until no vapor/smoke is given off by the coating. MAINTAIN adequate ventilation during this process.
Full cure occurs at 750F Especially effective on Turbo housings, head pipe and down tube.

All air pressures given by TECH LINE for sandblasting are based on the use of a suction type sandblast cabinet. Pressure pots while excellent for many applications must be pressurized at much lower settings than are given in our instructions. If using a pressure pot you will need to experiment to determine the proper working pressure. In addition a pressure pot will need an internal agitator to keep the solid in suspension.

The solvents recommended for degreasing are; acetone, M.E.K., lacquer thinner or other non-petroleum based materials. You must use a solvent that leaves no residue. In many instances if you handle the parts with hooks or clean cotton gloves it will not be necessary to degrease after blasting. If the part has been handled be sure that the solvent is completely evaporated before handling.
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