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#1
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Ive got a 68 Satellite and the headliner needs to be replaced. I took the car to a respected auto trim shop here in Abilene, and the lady who does all of their headliner work said that the rear window has to be removed! Is that true? Shes not trying to get more money out of me because they wont do glass work there.
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#2
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I have never seen a headliner that required the backlight to be removed. Someone has got the wrong idea here...
------------------ ~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~ Elwenil.cjb.net DodgeChargerSE@aol.com 72 Charger SE |
#3
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I have restored a number of cars from that era and have not had to remove rear glass
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#4
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Thanks folks I really appreciate the info. I know now not to use this business, heck, I may even try to replace it myself!!
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#5
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Does anyone have any good tips on replaceing the headliner?
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#6
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I replaced the headliner in my Challenger T/A myself. It wasn't hard, a little aggravating trying to get everything straight. Mine had the metal ribs and the teeth along the top helped hold it in place. I try to do everything I can myself. I've had my car about 20 years and it's been completely apart except for the engine and 4-speed. It's so much more gratifying to do it yourself. I love it!
Teresa GOMANGO! Challenger T/A |
#7
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Yeah, TAKE YOUR TIME! Remove all the trim to start with. Make sure that if the headliner seems to be glued in some areas, like the sail panels, to get some good spray adhesive. Take your time, and remove it from the rear to the front. Leave the metal "bows" in the headliner if possible. If you headliner is in bad shape they may fall out, so be careful and DO NOT get them out of order. It's a good idea to let the new `liner lay out a while, in the sun if possible. I know, wrong time of year. Anyway after getting the old one out, transfer the bows by sliding them out of their pockets and into the new `liner in the SAME ORDER. Then put it in from the front to the back. There are normally little metal "teeth" on the sail panels to hook it on. Take you time and carefully stretch it to get all the wrinkles out. Trim off the excess material around the edges and put it all back together. You might also want to measure off where the dome lamp is before you start. There are no holes for it in the new `liner, and you really don't want to go digging around in your new `liner to find the holes and the wiring. I don't think it applies to your application, but some models have a different number of bows in the headliner on the same style car. Make sure you count them before you order. You can tell how many bows by how many seams there are on in the `liner. I think that about covers it. Anything I miss guys?
------------------ ~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~ Elwenil.cjb.net DodgeChargerSE@aol.com 72 Charger SE |
#8
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time to find another trim shop, 1 that isnt
clueless |
#9
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B-bodies with the 3-piece headliner are the hardest to replace, so you will have some fun. One sugggestion is to do it on a warm day and let the new headliner sit in the sun for awhile to let the wrinkles smooth out. The bows are indeed critical, but are usually color coded so not too difficult to match.
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#10
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A couple other tips! Before hanging new liner, replace screws for visors, coat hangers, shoulder harness clips, dome light etc. That way you can feel the screws after the liner is in. Center liner & work front to rear, rear to front, side to side. Electric heat gun works great for working out wrinkles etc. Be careful, you can melt the vynal very easily.
------------------ BFRACN |
#11
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In that last post on heat gun for wrinkles, How would you approach this? I was under the impression that a heat gun would cause the liner to sag, not tighten up. If Im wrong, Ill gladly claim ignorance, But I have a installed liner with the fold marks still visible, slight as they are, and it irks me to look up there and see them after all the HASSLE of putting it in myself. I have a '65 Barracuda, and I HAD to take the front and rear glass out to expose the shark teeth. There really was no other way in my mind to properly install the headliner. Good call on the screw install before liner install. I didnt and ended up measuring all screw holes from my buddies no headliner '65, with good success/luck. My liner is a sort of rubber/vinyl with the correct texture if that helps.
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#12
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What you do is heat the liner as you are stretching it front to rear/ side to side. The heat makes the vynal stretch easier. you end up with a tighter fit. Then, if you have any fold wrinkles etc. you can go over them with the heat gun again to shrink them out. Getting the liner tight to begin with is what you want. Be careful, too much heat, too close to the material, & you will melt it! Steam also works, if you have a steamer.
------------------ BFRACN |
#13
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clarify please
I am getting ready to tackle replacing the headlinner in a 64 Belvedere,,I need some help on installing it though..
I know I need to get it warm and keep it warm while installing The windows and interior are already out of the car so access is no problem. My questions start on fastening the headliner to the car. I have the bows in place and where do I go from there? Hook the middle of the rear and then the middle of the front? then do I hook the middle on either side? or do I hook the whole rear then the whole front? Any feedback will be much appreciated as I need this to be really nice,,,,, any other links to information would also be appreciated as well as hints on tools ex. |
#14
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headliner
the key to no wrinkels is warm material! i used a small propane salamander heater and aimed it into the interior while working the material!front to back,side to side.great tip to install screws for easy location.spray adhesive for sail panels. when recovering seats,use the propane heater to WARM the covers,hence no wrinkels,tight stright seams. YOU CAN DOOOO IT!
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#15
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additional clarification please
So does it matter where I start fastening the linner? front rear sides???
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#16
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The type of car that (supposedly) needs the rear window removed for a headliner job is the type that is set in a rubber channel gasket. The original headliner was installed before the channel was installed and is glued to the body under the channel lip.
Most knowledgeful shops will merely peel the rubber channel back, stuff the headliner material under the channel lip and glue it in place. Cars like the '68 B body with glue-in rear windows don't have the same problem as with the rubber channel. |
#17
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So does it matter where I start fastening the linner? front rear sides???
So does it matter where I start fastening the linner? front rear sides???
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#18
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i pulled the headliner tight from the sides first,got it stright,no wrinkels,then pulled to the front.did the rear last,sprayed adhesive on sail panels,worked out wrinkels.
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#19
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Thanks!!!!!!!!!!
Might tackle ove Xmas,,,,,,pul in the garage and heat everything up |
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