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  #1  
Old 10-25-2011, 09:12 PM
440_8bbl 440_8bbl is offline
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Default 440 exhaust studs or bolts?

just putting the finishing touches on my 440 and wanted to know what people on the forum used on their motors, studs or bolts to attach the headers
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  #2  
Old 10-26-2011, 05:40 AM
John Van John Van is offline
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Had to go with bolts on my '73 Cuda,very tight engine bay. Make sure you use a sealer on the bolts as they go into the water jackets.

john
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  #3  
Old 10-26-2011, 07:18 AM
440_8bbl 440_8bbl is offline
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thanks i never thought about the water jackets on a 440
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:28 AM
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Stoga Stoga is offline
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I prefer studs, but like John says, some places it just doesn't work and will interfere. And I'll 2nd the sealer!
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:41 PM
440_8bbl 440_8bbl is offline
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thanks i am going to go with the studs
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  #6  
Old 10-27-2011, 04:51 AM
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Be aware you may run into interference problems. You can either cut a slot in the header flange for the stud, or leave some or all of the studs out until you have the header in place. Be sure the threads in the head are in good shape too, better to chase them or helicoil them when you have everything else out of the way then later.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:15 PM
440_8bbl 440_8bbl is offline
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thanks i will keep that in mind.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:58 PM
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we've alaways used bolts except for the two on the ends that way you use the studs to hold the header in place making it easier to line up to get the bolts in the holes and have a slot in the header flange to slide on the stud
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:08 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog426 View Post
we've alaways used bolts except for the two on the ends that way you use the studs to hold the header in place making it easier to line up to get the bolts in the holes and have a slot in the header flange to slide on the stud
================================================== =========

This is a great idea if you have the room to install studs. My TTI's come with small headed bolts as even a normal bolt head is too large for clearance. I think you will know if you just look at the distance between the flange and the header tube.
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2011, 11:00 PM
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well i was meaning the holes on the very end of each side it's usually a little more room there for clearance of the studs... and call me crazy but isn't the bolt holes in weird places on those heads?? from the pic it looks like the bolts r on top and bottom while any mopar i've ever seen was on the sides of the tubes
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:25 AM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog426 View Post
well i was meaning the holes on the very end of each side it's usually a little more room there for clearance of the studs... and call me crazy but isn't the bolt holes in weird places on those heads?? from the pic it looks like the bolts r on top and bottom while any mopar i've ever seen was on the sides of the tubes
================================================== ==========

Yes the bolt holes are above and below the exh ports which is a challenge when the pipes turn down quickly as is required. I know the BB's are more user friendly but mu friends 'cuda w/451 stroker has issues that way too since some of the pipes sweep back sharply.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2011, 08:30 PM
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JVMopar JVMopar is offline
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That's a poly head he's got pictured.
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2011, 11:35 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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Originally Posted by JVMopar View Post
That's a poly head he's got pictured.
================================================== =======

Yes my engine is a poly. The bolt pattern is different. But the use of fasteners may be similar with spatial conditions that can exist. IE if it's tight you probably need bolts. If you have room the studs are fine.
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2011, 01:49 AM
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7t2fish 7t2fish is offline
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I know this might be too late but I use stage 8 locking bolts on my headers. Tight space and no weekly bolt checks. 440+4 Cuda
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2011, 12:17 AM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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On my 496 Cuda, studs got in the way of installing headers. They were a real pain!

I went to ARP header bolts for a chevy to get 1/4 inch more length (bite into the head) ,and they have the smaller heads, to clear headers. (Hooker 2 inch supercomps)

Us pipe thread sealant on bolts. Just let dry over night before filling with water. I tried every sealant on the planet, and pipe thread
was the best! (white stuff)
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  #16  
Old 11-24-2011, 01:21 PM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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I,ve been told that using header bolt that go into the water jacket are best kept as short as possible so they don't physically insert into the water flow area. Not to slow down water flow but to help prevent corrosion of the bolt. I have heard that cuts down on leakage problems down the road. My cousin builds a lot of engines and he measures the point where the bolt hole stops and cuts his bolts to stop at the end or a little short. Then he also puts a tad of RV sealant on the bolt ends as I recall. That adds extra protection to the bolt end. The bolt is only holding in the area where the threads are anyway.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:59 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Kinsley View Post
I,ve been told that using header bolt that go into the water jacket are best kept as short as possible so they don't physically insert into the water flow area. Not to slow down water flow but to help prevent corrosion of the bolt. I have heard that cuts down on leakage problems down the road. My cousin builds a lot of engines and he measures the point where the bolt hole stops and cuts his bolts to stop at the end or a little short. Then he also puts a tad of RV sealant on the bolt ends as I recall. That adds extra protection to the bolt end. The bolt is only holding in the area where the threads are anyway.
Why not use a Gr.5 or 8 stainless bolt? I believe ARP makes some. I don't like the idea of lumps of sealant circulating in the coolant. Just my 2 cents
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2011, 01:19 AM
Rich Kinsley Rich Kinsley is offline
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There's nothing wrong with that stainless steel idea either. I know what you mean about the lumps circulating. I don't think my cousin uses much though on the end.
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  #19  
Old 12-05-2011, 06:47 PM
cudabob496 cudabob496 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Kinsley View Post
I,ve been told that using header bolt that go into the water jacket are best kept as short as possible so they don't physically insert into the water flow area. Not to slow down water flow but to help prevent corrosion of the bolt. I have heard that cuts down on leakage problems down the road. My cousin builds a lot of engines and he measures the point where the bolt hole stops and cuts his bolts to stop at the end or a little short. Then he also puts a tad of RV sealant on the bolt ends as I recall. That adds extra protection to the bolt end. The bolt is only holding in the area where the threads are anyway.
1/4 inch is really insignificant, especially when you don't want to strip out a shorter header bolt from the head, and you want to get a good tight seal of the header gasket, and in the head to prevent water leakage. Also, quality header flanges are thicker, so I think its a good move. Had no problems in the last 10 years. And they are stainless as well.
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