540

[Aj339]

so i am new to this forum and am planing to build a 540, from a 440 big block, i am not all that knowladgable when it comes to engines so am am calling out for some help. i do have a limted knowladge, but there will be a fair bit that i will need help with, not planning to start the build intill next year, but i am just looking to see what i will need first. i know enough to know that th engine block will be the first thing needed, and the stroker kit, but not to sure where to go from that.

[cudabob496]

Here's an example of one:
http://www.cederstrandracingengines.com/id14.html

I think you maybe doubling your cost by going to a 540, whereas if you stroke it to 496 or so, using a 4.150 crank, then your parts won't be as expensive, and you can use a regular 440 block with 2 bolt main caps, usings studs. You can still get over 600 hp with the 496.

[Aj339]

That might be a better idea then

[John Kunkel]

540 is also possible with a production 440 block, a $700 4.50" stroke crank is all that's needed.

[Aj339]

so will it cost alot more to take it to a 540?...

[nhdriver]

Look uo "440 source" They have some good packages available. Make sure you use good rods & use some good bottom end parts. 440's have a tendency to have the main caps "walk" leading to some catastrophic breakage if not done right.

[DartGT66]

I have built one 4.5" stroke 440. It needs external oiling, which adds costs some. Other than that itäs not more costly than any other stroker combo. Stock port window is on the small side for a 540, meaning that it will be a torque monster. Bigger heads = huge power. The 540 I built had RPM heads that I ported, and the package worked great. In a true street car with 3.23 gears and 275/60/15 ET Street Radials it run 10.4/130 mph in the 1/4 weighing 3550 lbs.

[Cudadrag]

Speaking of a 540 has anyone seen that alumimum block that Mopar Perf is using for their 540 crate? This block appears to only be availabe to a select few. Have not seen a bare block on any of the selling sites.

[DartGT66]

I have seen a couple of World aluminum blocks. Nothing special. Only have two KB's and one Indy in the garage at the moment + one megablock and one World cast iron block.

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

I have built one 4.5" stroke 440. It needs external oiling, which adds costs some. Other than that itäs not more costly than any other stroker combo. Stock port window is on the small side for a 540, meaning that it will be a torque monster. Bigger heads = huge power. The 540 I built had RPM heads that I ported, and the package worked great. In a true street car with 3.23 gears and 275/60/15 ET Street Radials it run 10.4/130 mph in the 1/4 weighing 3550 lbs.

Well, it just seems that if you go huge power in a regular 440 block, you are asking for trouble. Isnt' that why Indy makes the Max Block, to handle the power?

[nhdriver]

I know a guy going pretty fast w/ a stock 400 block. They can live if done correctly.

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by nhdriver

I know a guy going pretty fast w/ a stock 400 block. They can live if done correctly.

ya, 400 known for strength, but limited on size you can stroke it I think.

[DartGT66]

They will live, for a while. If prepped well, aluminum mian caps, partial fill etc. They are relatively trouble free with 800+ hp, but will eventually fail. However, prepping a block like that, good bore, hone, deck etc etc needed at those power levels takes you closer to the price of an aftermarket block... and still you have thin cylinder walls and decks that loose power compared to a good block. With a long stroke in a 400 you have to compromise the rod length and the pistons height, while in a RB block you can use 7.1" rods even with 4.75" stroke.

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

They will live, for a while. If prepped well, aluminum mian caps, partial fill etc. They are relatively trouble free with 800+ hp, but will eventually fail. However, prepping a block like that, good bore, hone, deck etc etc needed at those power levels takes you closer to the price of an aftermarket block... and still you have thin cylinder walls and decks that loose power compared to a good block. With a long stroke in a 400 you have to compromise the rod length and the pistons height, while in a RB block you can use 7.1" rods even with 4.75" stroke.

Ya, if I ever wanted to go big power with a 540+ inch engine, I would definitely try to upgrade to an aftermarket block, simply to have the reliability and not have to be worrying about when it was gonna grenade itself! And because it will probably last twice as long as a 440 block! Probably money well spent! May go that route if and when the present engine dies.

[John Kunkel]

The end user has to take into account how hard he's gonna flog it. With that many inches it'll have lots of "grunt" for the street without running it that hard.

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by John Kunkel

The end user has to take into account how hard he's gonna flog it. With that many inches it'll have lots of "grunt" for the street without running it that hard.

Hmmm, don't know if its simply a high rpm concern? Its gonna make max torque in the 4000 to 5000 range, and torque can break an engine as easy as high rpm horsepower, I would think?

Torque being simply horsepower at lower rpms.

[DartGT66]

1500+ ft-lb with an indy block, so far so good....

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

1500+ ft-lb with an indy block, so far so good....

dats a lot of feet!

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

1500+ ft-lb with an indy block, so far so good....

how do you keep the main caps in place?
are the main caps the weakest area?

[Moparmatt72]

For my 540 I'm going with the Koleeno block, its capable of 4.600 bores plus they re did the oil passages to feed the mains first then heads plus all five mains are cross bolted. But my kit will be more expensive since for my build I need to go billet rods and crank.

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by Moparmatt72

For my 540 I'm going with the Koleeno block, its capable of 4.600 bores plus they re did the oil passages to feed the mains first then heads plus all five mains are cross bolted. But my kit will be more expensive since for my build I need to go billet rods and crank.

You only live once! Go for it!

Just make sure you got a big red warning light if your oil pressure goes low.
On my old 440 I burped a lifter due to a bent push rod, and oil pressure went to zero while I was cruising down the road. I think the synthetic oil saved the motor from melting!

[Moparmatt72]

Originally Posted by cudabob496

You only live once! Go for it!

Just make sure you got a big red warning light if your oil pressure goes low.
On my old 440 I burped a lifter due to a bent push rod, and oil pressure went to zero while I was cruising down the road. I think the synthetic oil saved the motor from melting!

Oh ill have a lot of gauges telling me what's going on cause with a twin turbo set up I want to know what everything is doing, especialy the oil psi, will go with a high volume high output to feed the motor and turbos.

[DartGT66]

No signs of main caps moving in our engine, the bottom end is pretty stout in the Indy block. The block is already over 10 years old, 4.5" bore and 3.75" stroke. In the beginning of the build up I had no knowledge about turbo engines, when asking got very different answers from different people. So I couldn't draw any conclusions about that, and just had to choose my own route. The only basic design suggestion came form Hemifred; keep the stroke short or you'll have trouble with the tq. That was a good advice, because even now we can't get the car hooked if trying to use all power. And we don't have any electric help for that. We don't have a lot of gauges or data logger etc, run the car for two years before finally taking the engine to a dyno. Our turbos are small, and they run out of steam after around 5000 rpm. Peak power on pump gas was 1580 hp at 6100 rpm, but the base engine is designed to make peak power at a little over 7000. However, it spools very quick, launching off idle it runs 8.5's on DOT tires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUV_PuIySjQ

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

No signs of main caps moving in our engine, the bottom end is pretty stout in the Indy block. The block is already over 10 years old, 4.5" bore and 3.75" stroke. In the beginning of the build up I had no knowledge about turbo engines, when asking got very different answers from different people. So I couldn't draw any conclusions about that, and just had to choose my own route. The only basic design suggestion came form Hemifred; keep the stroke short or you'll have trouble with the tq. That was a good advice, because even now we can't get the car hooked if trying to use all power. And we don't have any electric help for that. We don't have a lot of gauges or data logger etc, run the car for two years before finally taking the engine to a dyno. Our turbos are small, and they run out of steam after around 5000 rpm. Peak power on pump gas was 1580 hp at 6100 rpm, but the base engine is designed to make peak power at a little over 7000. However, it spools very quick, launching off idle it runs 8.5's on DOT tires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUV_PuIySjQ

Cool! what kinda tranny? What CR, and do you have timing retard as boost goes up?

[Moparmatt72]

Dart aren't you running like twin 76mm turbos?

[DartGT66]

Twin 68's. Now upgrading to 72's Holset HX55's

[cudabob496]

what kinda carb?

[DartGT66]

Fuel injection in this engine. We have another project that will be carburated, C&S Specialties E-85 billet aerosol carb that will use our old 68mm turbos. http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/3457912/

[cudabob496]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

Fuel injection in this engine. We have another project that will be carburated, C&S Specialties E-85 billet aerosol carb that will use our old 68mm turbos. http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/3457912/

thanks, what kinda tranny

[DartGT66]

JW ultraglide with an ultra bell, with a ringless "NASA" shaft and 10 clutch drum