new guy needs help

[63dodger]

Hey everybody, I'm new here and very glad to find a place where I can talk about my old Dodge.I have a 63 Dodge 880 custom with I'm told by the original owner it's a 383 w/ a 2 barrel carb.( can't tell the diff between a 383 and the 361) I've done a ton of stuff to this car already like rebuild trans,belts and hoses,water pump,fuel pump,brakes, etc,etc. I rebuilt the stromberg model WWC 2 barrel carb. I would get up in the am and try to start the car and the carb would be dry every time, had to prime it every day. I rebuilt the carb and noticed the accelerator pump bore was badly pitted which I don't think is the reason for drying up but.... I ended up with a bit of a hesitation when accelerating and still have the fuel loss overnight. Is there a carb that I can use instead of the stronberg? also I installed electronic ignition in the distributor but kept the original 20kv coil, should I get a 40kv coil? Car has a slight miss or under powered feeling. I also want to replace all the wheel studs other then that the car is perfect :-).Needs lots of work but I ain't stoppin I'm 68 years old and if I don't get this thing done so me and the little misses can cruise down central on a Saturday night pretty soon I'll have to install wheel chair ramps or something. Thanks for taking time to read this as I'm an old Mopar lover from way back and just glad to be here.

[John Kunkel]

A welcome to the board from another 68-year-old.

Are you sure the carb is actually running dry overnight? Sounds more like the accelerator pump isn't working which explains why the car won't start and the hesitation when accelerating. Easy enough to check, just remove the air cleaner and operate the carb lever by hand with the engine off...you should see a healthy stream of fuel from the pump nozzles.

If in doubt about the engine size just look for the stamped numbers in the flat pad next to the distributor (you might have to scrape off the paint/crud), a '63 should be stamped T36 for a 361 or T38 for a 383.

[440roadrunner]

I wish I could help you more, but the older cars and I don't have much experience

I don't know about the bolt pattern for your 2bbl. I would THINK that you could put a little newer Carter, etc, carb on there, but if it is a little "wierd" pattern, ANY intake for the 361-383-400 will fit, and they should be easy to find

I would not worry about the coil voltage, only the CONDITION of the coil. If it's an old coil, you might try another. How did you convert the ignition? If, for example, you used Pertronix, I would be more concerned with the condition of the distributor, IE shaft wear and the advance mechanisms, both mechanical and vacuum

So far as the miss, just stick with basics

Do a basic diagnostic and tune-up.

Compression test. Google "leak down" tester. You can make your own, and this gives you an excuse to be able to hear air escaping from the intake (intake valves) or exhaust (exhaust valves)

How are any vacuum hoses? Does the engine idle smooth? Do the two idle mixture screws have proper effect?

If you don't have one, buy a vacuum gauge

Check the plug wires or replace them. Use an ohmeter. The old school default used to be "no more than 10000 ohms per foot" but just about all are less

The important thing is to CLIP the meter to the wire connections so that your BODY is not affecting the reading. SHAKE the wires vigorously to show up bad spots in the wires

How is the cap and rotor? replaced? dirty, greasy? carbon tracks?

Also you can do a "backyard" cylinder balance test. Use a tach, or even your ear if "they are good." Devise a way to short out each cylinder. Pull the dist. boots loose and pull the wires loose so you can remove them, OR slide small brads/ nails down beside each plug wire in the cap.

Now with the engine warm and idling, take a grounded probe and short each cylinder one at a time. the engine should drop the same RPM and "sound the same" with each cylinder shorted. Sometimes this shows up better at a dead slow idle, sometimes better at about 1000 RPM or so.

[63dodger]

Thanks for the quick help it gives me some direction.John Kunkel I will go out there and look for those Id #'s and in the am I look for a squirt in the carb and there's nothing it has that sound of no fuel, I can pull on the choke and pump pump pump....nothing til I put a little gas or starter fluid and it fires but I have to prime it 2 or 3 times then it will start just fine like reach in the window and hit the key and she starts and idles fine.Thank you sir. Now I ain't much of a computer user so don't beat me up too bad cause I know I'll screw this up. 440Roadrunner I have maybe 1 vac. line on it and that goes to the dist. adv. which does hold vac.and yes I did put in a pertronix kit in the dist.I had to run a wire from the dist to the 12v side of the Ballast resister then back to the coil. I replaced the plugs and wires a year or so when I first decided to start working on my baby but I will get fresh cap,wires,and plugs. I think I will try the backyard cylinder balance test. I think it's only going to be 190 out there today :-) man it's hot. I want to thank you guys for your help and I will tell you what happens. The first of next week I'm leaving for Michigan to spend some time with my ailing mother so what I get done between now and then ... who knows but I will respond thanks again.

[440roadrunner]

Good luck. Post back here with the results. I know what you mean, the heat. My health and heat does not go well. Fortunately we've had a !!! COOL !!! spring up here in N Idaho. It only recently warmed up, and has rained as if we were in well, a rain forest.

[old woolie]

Welcome to the site. I was 7 years old in 1963 when my uncle bought a new Dodge 440 sedan with a slant six pushbutton auto, the first new car I can recall in our immediate family. Nothing special but the looks and style of that car helped cement the Mopar thing in me. I remember the first ride in it like it was yesterday.

This place is full of good people and good info, you will get you problems solved.

[63dodger]

Well hello again I'm back all ready .I'm very old and so is my car and before I kick the bucket I want to get my old Dodge running.I've been to see my mom and a whole year has gone by and I still have the same problem with my 63 Dodge. I have a Stromberg 2 bbl. model WWC carb on it and it's dry when trying to start her up after sitting overnite. Don't really know how long it takes for it to go dry but it happens. Maybe I should get a different more updated carb. does anyone know of a replacement carb. that would work ? I'm planning on driving this baby on Route 66 from Phx. to back east so I don't want any problems. You only live once and me and my old Dodge are going on a trip on the Mother Road. I've done everything to her that I can think of except that carb. problem and new tires. If I make it there or not it should be an interesting time. Thanks

[John Kunkel]

Did you check to see if the accelerator pump is actually working as I suggested last year? Check the pump operation before making plans to toss the existing carb.

If the carb is original and it is a Stromberg WWC it was only used on the 383 in that year, a 361 would have a Carter BBD.

[63dodger]

Originally Posted by John Kunkel

Did you check to see if the accelerator pump is actually working as I suggested last year? Check the pump operation before making plans to toss the existing carb.

If the carb is original and it is a Stromberg WWC it was only used on the 383 in that year, a 361 would have a Carter BBD.

Hey John thanks for throwing me a bone. I did check the accelerator pump and is was dry but after I got the engine running and turned it off I checked the pump action and it was giving a shot of fuel. I must confess that I had this problem a long time ago so I got a kit and went through that stromberg and when I was done I had the same prob. You say the WWC Stromberg was on the 383, well the original owner (before he passed away ) told me it was a 383 and I tried and tried to verify that but thought he might be wrong and it is really a 361 so thank you for helping me on that .Man it's gonna be 100 degrees today in Phx. and man it's hot out there working on my Dodge. Thanks again.

[chirorod]

I'm with John on this. Probably a bad accelerator pump. It is not that the carb is going dry when sitting, but the pump is worn and dries sitting so it doesn't pump until it gets a little wet and warmer. Without that shot of gas from the accelerator pump, they don't like to start. So a rebuild is in order, which would include a new accelerator pump. Also the choke should be set. Dont set the choke too tight in that hot weather. Wow, Phoenix doesn't waste any time in pushing the thermometer up. So do a little at a time, rest, and drink water.

[63dodger]

Thanks for the response I did the carb a while ago and now that you mention it I seem to remember something not right with the accelerator pump bore I think I might have used some emery cloth on it but it might have been pitted and maybe that's it so I'll take it off again and have another look, thanks
P.S. one day I was working outside and thought man it's warm today , Yeah it was 122

[Rich Kinsley]

It is not that the carb is going dry when sitting, --- Wow, Phoenix doesn't waste any time in pushing the thermometer up. ( Partial quote)

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I gotta say it is almost inevitable anymore that you will have trouble starting your car after it sits with a combination of the modern fuel and an old mech pump. This fuel evaporates extremely fast and the heat just doubles the issue.

The best thing you can do is try to insulate the fuel delivery system as well as you can to cool the fuel and carb. Some type of insulating carb spacer, not aluminum, but wood or phenolic or at least a heavier carb gasket will be a great help. I dropped my carb bowl temp from 180deg to 110deg by making my own 1&3/8"wood spacers from 1/2" MDX plywood. I think that was the single best thing I did to the fuel system. I also installed an electric fuel pump and that allows the carb to fill if it has evaporated. My garage smelled like it was full of gas before I did the spacers. Now the smell is gone! And my car will start just fine. I also did re-route and insulate my fuel line to get it farther away from my headers which may not be an issue with a stock set-up.

Steer clear of ethanol if at all possible. Unless your car is injected it can really add to vapor lock and high evaporation loss.

Good luck and enjoy your car. BTW I'm an old codger too :-) 70 in July.

Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr LeRoar 324 poly w/goodies

[63dodger]

Good to hear from you Rich, I'll be 69 in August so I'm right there. Thanks for the pics and good advice. My wife won't retire for another year then we want to travel. I love my old Dodge and plan on driving it a lot. I installed a new mechanical fuel pump over a year ago but I think installing an electric fuel pump might be the ticket. I rebuilt the trans in the car about 30 years ago which still works great, back then I didn't think I would ever own the car . I have another project that takes a lot of my time which is a 57 chevy 2dr. 210 post and am putting a 454 crate engine w/ beefy 400 turbo etc. etc. If I get my 3 year old grandson over here I'll have him post some pics for me . Great to hear from you, good luck with your projects and thanks so much for your help. Neil