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  #1  
Old 03-15-2000, 04:52 PM
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FastEddie FastEddie is offline
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I am in the process of removing the rubber isolators off of my M body car. According to Mopar Performance oval track manual, I need a cast iron isolator in place of the rubber. Is this true? Or can I just bolt it up tight to the frame? Also, any tips on getting the rear ones off. The fronts were pretty easy. Are the rears different?


Thanks in advance,

Eddie
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  #2  
Old 03-16-2000, 05:48 AM
340king 340king is offline
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I am not familiar with the M-body chassis. It stands to reason that you could bolt it directly if it does not cause interference with other components. By this I mean the steering shaft, tranny tunnel clearance, shroud clearance, the list goes on. Look twice, think twice and cut once.
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  #3  
Old 03-16-2000, 04:04 PM
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Lightbulb

Taht raises a good question.. About the tranny. Because ot the B block going in. I have trimmed firewalls before for clearance. I am soon to test fit the 400 in it. I will save the biscuts. Thanks.

Eddie
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  #4  
Old 03-17-2000, 01:13 AM
Mopar Trac Mopar Trac is offline
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The K frame will bolt right up with only a little minor grinding on one spot. One thing to make sure of is that you use a good heavy plate under the frame when bolting it up. These mounts are under a tremendous load in the corner and the last thing anyone needs is for one to rip loose!
Hope this helps and good luck

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  #5  
Old 03-17-2000, 07:28 AM
J-BODY J-BODY is offline
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I believe the Mopar book was refering to the steel biscuits to retain the same steering shaft angles if you were going to retain the "rag" joint in the lower steering shaft. By moving the K to the frame directly you are moving the steering box up nearly 2 inches which will create too much stress on the rag joint. Can be corrected using "universal joints" in the steering shaft.
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2000, 09:06 PM
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Smile

I got those #$%#@!%^&%$ rubber biscuts out about 6 sawzall blades later and went down to Mac's hardware (anybody from the midwest should know about this place) and bought 6.50 worth of thick washers to make my own "handling package" My friend and I who together weigh as much as any big block bounced it around and it seem to be quite firm. Thanks for the help guys!
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2000, 01:12 AM
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I left those rubber mistakes in place, and welded in large steel 1/4" gussets on both sides of the front subframe - front and back.
This keeps the factory steering angles, and eliminates the rubber ride.

P.S. - You can carefully torch those rubber bitches out when your done, and still retain the factory steering angles.
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  #8  
Old 03-30-2000, 01:46 AM
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cageman cageman is offline
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What kind of Dodge car does you use? Do you run the fury/diplomat and if you did what have you done to get it ready for racing
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  #9  
Old 03-31-2000, 05:43 AM
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I am using the 5th ave. Same as a diplomat. I have gutted the trunk lid hood and anything else. I am working on getting the 400 test fitted into it now. Also I am ciphering on the cage
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  #10  
Old 04-02-2000, 09:57 PM
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I was talking to a guy from west fargo and he said that the street cars they race in w fargo are not a sanctioned street car and that I would be able to race my hobby stock in that class. Do you know what there rules consist of, like wheel base carb and weight. When you put the main hoop in the car be sure to weld in a heavier piece of metal to the floor because the floor is not strong enough by itself. Also I would like to know what you do or did to get the 400 in the car. I want to put a 383 in a car and your help and knowledge will be appreciated.

[This message has been edited by cageman (edited April 02, 2000).]
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  #11  
Old 04-04-2000, 12:59 AM
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I will be racing at glyndon but I do have W. Fargo rules. 108 wb, 4bbl carb, headers, sticks allowed, no powerglides. 9'' ford ok. I think weight is 3400 or 3600. No weight breaks for motor size. I do know you will find out how good your motor is when you race there. The streets go to beat hell. I will see if I can find the printed rules around here. The class I am running is pure stock. 2bbl carb all iron motor.
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2000, 12:32 AM
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Does glyndon open on the 30 th. thats a long tow for me. I race a hobby stock class But I would like to race Fargo's track. I would probably end up in the wall and get my butt kicked. I drove by Glyndon last year a couple times, do they race on saturdays. There was a lot of cars along side of the road that were pretty beat up and that was the 4th of july.

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DIRT is for racing... asphalt's for getting there!
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2000, 12:58 AM
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Glyndon races sundays. You probably saw an enduro. I have run them there. There is nothing left of the car when you are done. That's why I want to get into heats and features. I can jet rules to you if you are interested.
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2000, 12:07 AM
Dave D Dave D is offline
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Mopar's p/n for the iron k-frame isolators is p/n4419942 I beleive. That's what I have written down in my notes at least. On a bent bar car(F,M,J body) just install them per directions. They can also be used on '73 and up B,X, and S body cars by swapping the fronts for the rears. We experimented with no isolators at all but the bind on the steering column was too much, we finally fabbed a column out of tubing and rod and mounted the wheel on a quick release. I have a question for all of those who are racing the transverse bar cars; why? The front end geometry is at best junk, and there aren't any "good" bars out there for them. I've been thinking about doing a Mirada but my plans include changing the car over to longitudinal bars so I can have a selection decent wheel rate bars.
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2000, 12:56 AM
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I have had good luck with my car and I will probably have good luck again with them. The other torsion bar cars i will run circles around them. The class I used to race was 98% dodge cars and i handled a lot better than they did. I think the bars are just fine. And the junk yards are full of them.

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  #16  
Old 04-29-2000, 01:14 AM
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Dave D., I Like the straight T Bars, too. For the same reasons you do. But I can tell you that the bent T bars cars run just fine where I race. The only thing I can figure is that Bump Steer isn't as important as we've all figured it was.
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  #17  
Old 05-08-2000, 02:20 AM
Dave D Dave D is offline
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Red face

Well I'm gonna find out just how far a bent bar bomber can be pushed. I've become a member of a three car (all Mopar) team that runs at Friday Night Thunderdome Speedway(say that three times fast!) in Goldsboro N.C., a 1/3 mi. banked asphalt track. We're running a A-body Duster, Dart Sport (still under construction),and a Volare Squadcar. I'm the only one with previous Mopar circle track experience. My first job is to get them convinced that the stock t-bars and springs ain't gonna get it. The Duster actually does half way decent with just sway bars and shocks but eats right fronts and looks unsettled all the way around. The Volare, well, it's a dump truck. Virtually nothing other than shocks and urethane swaybar link bushings. I'm concentrating on the Volare this week to learn a little more and start getting communication going with the driver. This week it's getting a set of iron k-member isolators and I'm gonna chuck the rear sway bar in hopes of getting the thing to at least thinking of turning. Does anyone running bent bar cars have any other suggestions?
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  #18  
Old 05-08-2000, 04:14 AM
daveashsr daveashsr is offline
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hi guys ! my 2 cents !! make sure u brace the k member where the upper control arm and shock bolt up !! u can put a shim (large) between the frame rail and the k memberto keep the flex to a min !! those cars will flex and change the cam a ton !!
good luck
mopar madness
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