|
|
|
|||||||
|
#3
10-02-2000, 02:41 AM
|
|||
|
|||
About 10 places. Actually, I think I had a bad chrome box in the end, but here is my story. I built this 360, 12.5:1 compression engine. It wasn't anything real special, but it had good basic machine work and decent parts. Only problem was that it wouldn't rev. 6,400 rpm was all. Different gears, different tracks, 6,400 rpm was all it would do.
Then I installed a MSD 6AL box. It was banging the 7,000 rev limiter in hot laps. That night I went from 16th or 17th up to 6th before a transmission problem put me out. It was season championship night and all the hot dogs got to start up front. I guess showing up more than three times a year has its privileges. 
|
|
#4
10-02-2000, 08:26 PM
|
|||
|
|||
I have absolutely no expeirence with chrome boxes. I have run nothing but MSD-AT6 boxes for the last nine years in my Late Models. We use the same boxes five years ago in the chevy six cylinder, which we turned 7000-7400 rpm regularly, also for the last four years in the chevy 350,turning average 7000-7500 rpm, and now in the Dodge 355 48deg motor,which we have turned up to 8200 rpm,
( normally 7000-7500rpm ). I have never used a rev.limiter yet,but I am planning to install one over the winter.We also burn alcohol, and weld our vacumn advance wide open on the distributor.I prefer to use a steel dist.gear, and replace the shaft bushing each year ( if it wears,and the shaft can ride up slightly,your RPM range can be severely limited ).I also use an .045 plug gap,and Autolite plugs. Just my 2c worth. 'The Old Man'
|
|
#5
10-04-2000, 12:56 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
355Racer brings up a good point. Make sure that you phase the distributer before installing the high voltage ignition box. The higher voltage inside the cap can cause spark scatter if the rotor is not in phase with the cap during firing.
|
|
#7
10-05-2000, 12:42 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I don't know for sure how to phase in, but this is what I do. I take the dist.cap and drill a 1/4" hole just aside of # 1 plug wire, (going towards the center of cap ).If you turn the distributor cap upside down,you can see where you can drill without hitting a rib. I than file the rotor point to an arrow head shape ,but leave about a 1/8" flat at the point. I use an MSD type rotor which is slotted for adjustment. Next set your timing marks on the front of engine at whatever you want,36deg / 38 deg ?, and make sure the rotor contact is close to firing # 1 cyl. when this is done, start your engine. Use your timing light to check down the 1/4" hole and make sure the plug is firing directly at # 1 .If not remove cap and either retard or advance rotor and re-check. I use a little piece of duct tape to cover hole when finished. I hope this helps.
'The Old Man'
|
|
#8
10-09-2000, 05:13 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
What the old man described is phasing the distributer. You must have the rotor in phase with the cap when transferring the high energy spark. Otherwise it can jump to the next or last pole piece on the cap(another cylinder). The breaker plate as it used to be called rotates inside the distributer and is held in place by the vacuum canister. In order to remove the vacuum canister, the plate must be secured. The phasing insures that the plate is lined up properly with the rotor/cap.
|
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
