Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Circle Track Chat

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-04-2000, 02:46 AM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Cool

HERE'S THE RULES.
MAX 360 CI +.060" overbore allowed.
4 br. intake stock cast iron only
flat top pistons
.500" cam hdy
roller rockers allowed
cast heads
1.94" int. valves max. (2.02 head's ready)
500 cfm carb holley 4412 or equal with 1" spacer max.

will be running 3300# car, 7000 rpm 3/8 mile dirt banked 6.61 final out.
Just seeing what you guy's come up with? appreciate any input!

RamHead
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-04-2000, 06:41 AM
speedway speedway is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanger, calif
Posts: 17
Post

Okay heres my 2 cents worth, Take your 360 bore to .030 over leaving room for future expansion. put a 3.385 stroke crank, use a good daul plane intake, since i'm not up to speed as to what mopar made out of cast iron, you'll have to research that. Hyd cam, but can you run a roller? Can you use the W-2 head? If so get the small chamber, try to get it down to 45-50cc's. this will work with your flat top pistons and shrt stroke. My choice for carb would be a Willy's 4412 set up for whatever fuel or gas your using.
A good distributor such as MSD or the like is very important also.Make sure that you plumb your radiator properly if you E-mailme i'll tell you how to do this.Also very important is the proper oil pan to keep the oil in the right spot and also keep it away from the crankshaft. Happy Hunting!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-04-2000, 01:06 PM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Smile

speedway,
Roller cams are not allowed.
The intake is a TQ dual plane with the center baffel cut down.
As for stroking, will need to be sneaky. didn't say NO. just another n/a. That's one reason for asking about the build up. Another fact I forgot to mention! This is a claimer style class. I normally don't worry about this, being the only Mopar in the class. Have you stroked a 360 to 3.385? would like more info. Crank used, piston and rods?

RamHead
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-04-2000, 04:56 PM
MOPARVANN's Avatar
MOPARVANN MOPARVANN is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Macon, Georgia, USA
Age: 70
Posts: 158
Post

I run the same class here in Georgia. This combination works great and makes plenty of power. 360 block bored .040 stock crank(we have internaly balanced crank so we can use neutral balance damper and fly wheel/converter)71-73 340 (stock bore) low compression pistons--pistons will need to be shaved slightly for valve clearence.Bottom of pistons will need cutting to clear 360 crank(this is minor).Net result is factory flat top pistons that nets 12.5 : 1 compression and is legal according to rules. The best factory cast-iron intake is a 71 340 (according to MOPAR engineers). I am currently running J heads with adjustable rockers (a must stamped rockers just don't last)from a 273. My rules call for a 500 holley or the stock carb again I went the stock way and used an 850 THERMOQUAD.Now the oiling problem I had KEVCO custom build a pan to fit my stock a-body k-frame and then added a MOROSO 3 quart accumulator, now run 13 quarts of oil and pan is not lower than K-frame.
MOPARVANN

------------------
MOPARVANN---C & V Racing-Middle Georgia Mopar Club
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-04-2000, 10:13 PM
RonsDirt RonsDirt is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Saginaw, TX U.S.A.
Age: 81
Posts: 72
Post

We tried the 340 piston deal and the top ring lands broke. We use the .030 KB piston and mill the block so the piston is .020 out with .030 cut on stock heads and .026 gasket gets you about 11.5 comp and a setup that will last. Make sure you DRILL holes in block to increace oil to mains. Internal blance the engine and use a HEAVY (340/318) blancer. Stamped steel rockers will work if you get the H.D. mopar ones. Adjustable is bettor if allowed.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-05-2000, 01:15 PM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Post

Moparvann,
Appreciate the input! You mentioned internal balancing using a nuetral balancer and flex/flywheel. Question is, how much mallory is required for this method, or can you get by with welding? I've been balancing using my stock balancer with flex and fine tuning the balance over stock production.

RamHead
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-05-2000, 01:30 PM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Post

RonsDirt,
Glad to read your comments, question is the same to you as moparvann on the balancing using nuetral balancer. Is the shop adding material and approx. how much to counter. Next question, you mentioned drilling holes in block for increased main oiling? Are you enlarging holes or drilling additional ones, and where?

RamHead


[This message has been edited by RamHead (edited September 05, 2000).]
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-06-2000, 02:30 PM
MOPARVANN's Avatar
MOPARVANN MOPARVANN is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Macon, Georgia, USA
Age: 70
Posts: 158
Post

To acheive neutral balance the machine shop drilled front and rear throws on crank approximately 1 inch in diameter and filled with malory metal. The old way was to just press fit this plug in, but I have experienced the weight slipping and I suggest spot weld to hold in place. As far as durability I have run this combination for as long as two complete seasons with no tear down and when I did take it down all looked fine and only needed a freshening up.

------------------
MOPARVANN---C & V Racing-Middle Georgia Mopar Club
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-06-2000, 04:33 PM
sanborn sanborn is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: shelbyville,tn,USA
Posts: 2,880
Post

What Ron was talking about drilling is the oil passages from the main oil galley down to each individual main bearing saddle. The factory drills these 17/64". I typically enlarge these to 9/32" front and rear and 19/32" for #2,#3 and #4. Use an electricians 12" long drill bit, take your time when drilling don't force it, you get close to water.

Also, if you get a really light set of pistons and .927" pins you will get very close to having an internal balance without heavy metal. Regarding balance, up to 7000 rpm, neutral balance is OK, up to 8000 use 1% overbalance, the bearings look so much better. Above 8000, use more overbalance.

Hope I didn't butt in.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-07-2000, 04:25 AM
RonsDirt RonsDirt is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Saginaw, TX U.S.A.
Age: 81
Posts: 72
Post

Using the KB pistons and Stock rod, It take's a LOT of Malloy to Neturial balance (About 3 1" plugs in front and rear counterweight).BUT the last set of KB's I got were 60 grams lighter so there is hope. Say Charles why not tell him about the Sloting of the mains (I now have 3 motor's with that done and have had no problems) One other little tibit make sure the OIL hole in the rear main cap is DRILLED right. Had one block the the hole was only about 1/4" big.
Most Stock blocks are not very square, but it cost a bit and takes a good shop to square the decks to the crank, in a claimer class it might not be worth the cost. Most of the blocks are OK in the Line bore so can save a little there, Look the stock stuff over good as you tear it down it will tell you if things are off.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-07-2000, 05:26 AM
340king 340king is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Age: 61
Posts: 2,233
Post

I may be comparing apples to oranges, but this is the combo I just completed for a customer. He runs Wissota SuperStock and has nearly the same rules. Here is what we have for engine rules.

360 cid +.040" maximum, zero deck pistons, any flat tappet cam, any cast intake except marine, 4412 Holley carb, stock ignition/no aftermarket boxes, stock rockers only(book says stamped steel only, but Mopars need ductile iron rockers for solid cam), no stroking, no aluminum period, headers allowed - but no 180°, I think that is most of them.

As you can see the rules are bent around the Chevy/Ford engines. We went with a 360+.020" Mopar crate engine, should have used one of my cores, magnum heads (1.94" intake) for the closed chamber and good flow, Reed solid cam, spread bore tq intake with sliding phenolic adapter centered over rear throttle bores, junk 1-5/8"x24" headers, 273 style shaft rockers with poly locks, stock phased distributer with chrome box.

We zero decked the block, internally balanced the engine with 2 sticks of mallory on each end and about 1/8" of counter weight removed in the lathe, stock 340 balancer, neutral balance clutch/flywheel. The engine came with hyper uetectic cast pistons that were trimmed for deck height, bottom cut for lightning and fly cut for valve clearance. The factory pins were swapped for lighter TRW pieces that are far from extreme race. The decks were trued using a BHJ block true fixture, cutting approximately .008" from each deck, it varied from end to end. The rods were resized after adding ARP bolts and set for center to center distance. The longest rod was .006" longer than the shortest.

The magnum head conversion was tough and I would not recommend it for a claimer class. If you can run positive deck pistons, it would be cheaper. Our rules led us down this magnum head-ache path. I hope some of this helps. I wanted to make sure you could see why we chose the parts we did.

The engine kicks butt. Looks like everyone else is pulling a plow at half straight. Need to get the car to go around the corner for the guy now. It plows in the corners to make it a fair fight.

2800# car, big 3/8 mile flat track, 6,800 rpm, 5.83:1
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-07-2000, 05:28 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: shelbyville,tn,USA
Posts: 2,880
Post

Ron, I am glad that the slotted main bearings have worked out for you. What Ron is talking about is a modification we worked out several years to help get oil to the rod bearings at higher rpm. The standard main bearing has a 1/4" hole in it to provide oil to the rod bearings as the crank rotates. At higher RPM this 1/4" hole is not sufficient to oil the rod bearings. We take the 1/4" hole and elongate it to a slot 1/4" wide X 5/8" long. If you look closely at the block there is already a slot in the main bearing saddle. Just make the bearing slot match the slot in the block. Use a vertical milling machine with a 1/4" end mill cutter to do the job. Deburr the slot very carefully afterwards. This little modification works up to 7800 - 8000 RPM. There is some other mods needed when you get to 8500-9000 RPM.

Ron is very correct about block machining. None of the stock blocks are very square(that includes Mopar, GM or Ford). I have run into decks that were as much as .008" out of parallel to the crank. Most shops can check this or buy a 12" vernier caliper to check it yourself. Also, he is very correct about oiling passages. All those long oil passages sometimes don't intersect like they should. We have drilled many oversize so they intersect properly. The rear cap to block fit is probably the worst.

What I was talking about on the lightweight pistons/pins and balance on a 360 is this. CP pistons makes a lightweight piston for a Nascar late model 360 engine that weights about 425 grams. The .927 pin from Precision Products weights about 102 grams. A friend used this combination any didn't need heavy metal only grinding on the rod journal side of the crank. The pistons arn't cheap but sure reduce rotating weight.

Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-07-2000, 04:04 PM
MOPARVANN's Avatar
MOPARVANN MOPARVANN is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Macon, Georgia, USA
Age: 70
Posts: 158
Post

340KING---Now that we have made more power it is tough to turn left without major push. I fought it for a whole season and then went to the KING. Petty Racing sent me to the setup man from the 70's. MR RAY FOX , When I told him what car and type of track he stopped me and proceeded to tell me what my car was doing--runs straights, like a drag car,sits high and very fast, pushes bad in turns--he knew what I needed and this is what he said ****lower car as low as possible, headers will bottom out in the turns and will need replacing regularly.Take out the large diameter torsion bars and and make complete car soft and low.This helped greatly,(put in 318 torsion bars) I then added front sway bar stock setup on right and left has plate attached to bar that slaps under left lower control arm this has stopped roll in front. I went to softer springs in rear(stock 318 springs)and it also helped. To final tune suspension add more left weight, I know lighter is faster but it doesn't help if you can't turn. This combination has really worked for me on 3/8 mile asphalt. Waiting to hear more tips from others,lets show the chivys the "Heartbreak of the Heartbeat"

------------------
MOPARVANN---C & V Racing-Middle Georgia Mopar Club

[This message has been edited by MOPARVANN (edited September 07, 2000).]
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-08-2000, 03:34 AM
AVENGER29 AVENGER29 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: HICKORY, NORTH CAROLINA
Age: 61
Posts: 886
Post

If i may be so bold as to add my 2 cents worth,which im sure isnt much.We run similar set up,except,no restriction on flat top,also run methanol thru 4412 2 barrel holley,no roller cam,solids only,we have had great success with kb hypereutectics,if you follow the guideline will live well.We regularly turn the engine 7,400 rpm.360 cid 30over.Our biggest learning curve was with #3 rod bearing failure, we have found must run fully grooved mains, we also rework the rear main cap extensively,we make sure the gallery is straight and we enlarge drastically,we run a melling high volume pump with hemi spring,we also shim the spring slightly to increase pressure.We normally run over 60psi oil pressure hot at 1,000 rpm, and up to 90 psi at 7,400 rpms.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-08-2000, 01:58 PM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Thumbs up

outstanding input from all of you. I've printed out the replies so to better digest the info. I am glad to see the direction toward inproved oilling. This has seem to be a problem with my 360's. The last engine we exploded the harmonic balancer the driver made two laps then came in. I replaced the balancer with a new stock. Got 2 more races before bearing seazure. I blamed losing the balancer as the culprit (which I'm sure helped) but oiling might have been a bigger problem. The 318 just keeps on a ticking but not enough kicking.

RamHead
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-11-2000, 05:28 AM
340king 340king is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Age: 61
Posts: 2,233
Post

Good oiling begins in the oil pan. Are you running an open chassis style car that allows rear sump? If so, Champ Pans has really good pans, but it would be too shiny for a claimer. I have several homemade pans for rear sump applications. You could build one yourself quite easily, but I would recommend either a Champ or Hamberger pickup tube. They replace the bottom of the oil pump with a thick plate mated to a pickup tube. I have not had any problems with oiling since changing to this style of pickup.

If you are stuck with a center sump pan, things narrow up quickly. You will definitely have to make your own pan there. I bulit one for a B body that had a 1 gallon trap door extension on it. It worked real well, but the pickup tube was a mile long and was a nightmare to build.

On the non hydraulic cam engines, we plug the oil return on the left bank of the engine, where it runs back down the lifter valley. This is just a little insurance in case of a valvetrain failure on that side and it does no good to push the oil through the block after feeding the crank. I haven't tubed a block yet, but I do have the stuff to do it if the need arises.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-13-2000, 12:16 AM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Smile

340KING,
The b body 78 magnum with a 4" engine set back allows me to run a rear sump pan. On the first engine, I made a enlarged sump, took 10 qt to fill, oil temp was no problem just had to use large torsion bars to support the weight(ha!). That pan had to many rod hanging out of it to be reused. The pick up's you described sound pretty good. I'll try to locate and work in. I also ran the return line from the rear of the right valve cover to the left side of oil pan. I don't know that this really helped. It seams to vent more oil from the breather without it. May go back with that arrangement.
Just picked up a set of J heads thinking of going with 1.94 intake 11/32" stems that you sugested to clonestoker this year. Did you researce the 5/16" stems?

[This message has been edited by RamHead (edited September 12, 2000).]
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 09-13-2000, 02:54 PM
POWER POWER is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: MECHANICSBURG PA.
Posts: 23
Post

DO YOU GUYS FEEL IT IS NECESSARY TO SLOT THE MAIN BRNGS WITH A DRY SUMP SYSTEM AND THE NEW 48 DEGREE BLOCK? IF SO,WHY?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-14-2000, 03:16 AM
RonsDirt RonsDirt is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Saginaw, TX U.S.A.
Age: 81
Posts: 72
Post

Power:
The same problem is there reguardless if its a Wet or Dry sump. Just not enought time to oil rods with 1/4" hole.

Ramhead:
Run the 1.94 with a RPM cam, 2.02 with a Tourqe Cam on stock ports. 11/32 seems to have a larger selection of valve size's & lenght's.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 09-14-2000, 05:47 AM
340king 340king is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Age: 61
Posts: 2,233
Post

I agree. One of the considerations for using the 11/32" valves was price. Most parts are priced based on popularity. More sales means less price. The 11/32" stem varieties sell in far larger quantities than do 3/8", for performance apps anyway.

I still would prefer the 360 high swirl head to the "J" head. Good "J" heads should flow around 195-203 cfm with good valves. The 360 HS heads flowed 214 cfm. The intake side is only a part of it. The exhaust side is where the real difference is. The best ported, without welding, "J" exh flow numbers I have seen are in the upper 180's to 190 cfm. The 360 HS heads should flow over 170 out of the box.

The other argument for the 360 HS heads is that they are new, and have not been abused or overheated like most salvage yard pieces. Unfortunately, Mopar has decided that they need to make some money on these and priced them quite high. Use a good quality nail head valve for the intake, I prefer the undercut stem valves for flow. A good tulip style exhaust valve should provide the best flow numbers. Try to get the single groove keeper style valves. The stock multi-groove valves/keepers have a tendancy to wear and break.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 09-15-2000, 02:31 AM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Post

RON, KING,
Thanks for the info! Been shopping for valves on the net. 340 you said, to use Ferrea 1.94" +.100" small block chevy. having trouble locating a valve size that appears to work out.
Need help with that!
Ron, With the valves you guy's are using, are you shiming the rocker shaft for geomerty or, are you using stud mount units?
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 09-15-2000, 11:42 PM
RonsDirt RonsDirt is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Saginaw, TX U.S.A.
Age: 81
Posts: 72
Post

Ferrera Intake Valve 1.94 Part Num:6142 Ferrera Exhaust Valve 1.60 Part Num:6145 Use .100 Offset 10 Deg. Retainers with a 1.80 Installed height Spring. Use Crane 69690 Push rods with Adujustable rockers and every thing will fit. If you need the Numbers for 2.02 just ask. The Crane 69691 are a tad longer.

P.S. Oops I forgot to tell you these are 11/32 valves with single grove. These are there Medium Price SS valve. Super Flo is bettor but cost more.


[This message has been edited by RonsDirt (edited September 15, 2000).]
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-18-2000, 01:42 AM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Biggrin

RonsDirt,
Thanks for the part numbers. When you use the valve set up describe,are you using shaft mount rockers or stud? Is this with milled block or heads? Just came in from enlarging oil holes in block. Decided to go ahead a bore from .020 to .030". Haven't decided if I will deck block to zero or not. I have bent a few valves and poked a few holes in piston before!

RamHead
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 09-18-2000, 04:12 AM
RonsDirt RonsDirt is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Saginaw, TX U.S.A.
Age: 81
Posts: 72
Post

Using the KB pistons .020 OUT of block, with .030 cut from NEW heads, a .523 lift cam and Crane shaft rockers you will have plenty of clearence. BUT ALWAYS ck with Modeling Clay. The KB's can be safely cut another .080 if needed. my ref sheet says that we had .107 intake and .097 ex. with NO head gasket and zero lash. Also with the Cranes you will need to grind for spring clearence when you use the .100 offset retainer.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 09-18-2000, 05:25 AM
340king 340king is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Age: 61
Posts: 2,233
Post

We use the Pro-Flow series of valves. I don't have the part numbers here at the office, but they are available under a previous post called High Swirl 360 Heads or something like that. We have used the Manley valves on the exhaust to cut the price. It makes for apples and oranges if you mix 11/32" valves and 3/8" stem valves, but economy can overide simplicity.

The grinding Ron is eluding to is to the inner side of the rocker arm where the retainer has a tendancy to hit. Remove as little as possible and always leave a smooth edge to the grind. This will keep the rocker as strong as possible and reduce "notch root radius" for a fatigue crack to start in.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 09-19-2000, 02:32 AM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Thumbs up

Ron/340,
Just order 1.94" + .100" = 5.010" intakes with 1.625" + .100" = 5.010" exhaust from Rev. I plan to mill the head and block .010" each to straighten,then check piston deck height. Still trying to decide how much to push the clearance. Using stock stroke and rods with 1129 federal pistons and .500" cam. What spring weight do you guy's think?
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 09-19-2000, 03:43 AM
RonsDirt RonsDirt is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Saginaw, TX U.S.A.
Age: 81
Posts: 72
Post

I run 190 lbs. (install height) with solid lifters, good up to about 7,500 RPM, have no idea on hyd. .050 is all the piston to head you need, .090 to .100 on the valves will do fine.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 09-20-2000, 11:29 PM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Cool

Ron,
Thanks for the help! Should have the heads ready by the first of the week. The block will take a litle longer. We have three scheduled events remaining and possibly some rain make ups, may try the new engine this year!


Thanks again to all, will keep posting!

RamHead
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 09-25-2000, 04:47 AM
340king 340king is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Age: 61
Posts: 2,233
Post

For almost any race application, I would stay around the 120lb @ installed height as a minimum. Something in the 140-150lb range should be sufficient for the rpm range you will be running.

Make sure that you have good oiling to the rockers. This oil serves two purposes. First, it lubricates the assembly, second, it cools the springs. Cutting back on the oil to the heads is a death sentence for the valve springs.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 10-21-2000, 03:22 PM
RamHead RamHead is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MILTON, FL
Posts: 100
Cool

Just to give youall a up date. Got the 360 going with the j heads 11/32" 1.94 / 1.625 and new Lazer cam. Went to a track last night that we normally suffer at. Even with a tire change in the feature come back to take 5 th place,VERY PLEASED! Maintain good Oil pressure with the mod's that were suggested. Still racing until mid Nov. Will try to keep you updated.
Thanks again guys!

RamHead
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
what motor in an A-mod dirt car crewchief Circle Track Chat 9 09-08-2011 03:36 AM
Oval Dirt Track Motor for a Southern Sport Mod wcagle1983 Circle Track Chat 8 10-02-2010 12:40 AM
4 Cyl, FWD on Dirt! DYNO360 Circle Track Chat 11 02-22-2006 11:14 AM
Old Man and Ron's Dirt sanborn Circle Track Chat 0 11-22-2002 10:43 AM
DiRT? Dreamtruck Ram Truck Chat 0 08-08-2000 06:30 AM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:28 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .