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#1
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Anybody have any recommendation on how high to fill a low-deck drag only block and still have some circulation from front to back. On a high-deck you can usually go to the bottom of the water pump hole but on the low deck the headbolt bosses in the water jacket look like they form a dam across to the cylinder if you fill too high. Don't want to have to plumb the heads if I can help it. Thanks!!!
[This message has been edited by 23T-Wedge (edited July 18, 2000).] |
#2
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I have asked the same question and almost everyone told me to keep the block filler below the head bolt bosses. This winds up being about to the middle to top of the freeze plugs on the side of the block. I know of at least one person that was very unhappy because of the work he caused himself when he overfilled his block and had to drill out the excess in head bolt bosses.
Danny |
#3
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Been there, done that. You definitely want to keep it below the head bolt bosses. We got our a little high and had to drill through the outside of the block to clear the excess out. It's better to have too little than too much.
I was also worried about cooling with the Hard Blok, but that hasn't been a problem. It actually cools quicker. We run a VW radiator and have made 2 passes in 15 minutes in this Texas heat with no problems. Monty ------------------ Monty Brown 74 Barracuda 446 / PG 10.14 /134 |
#4
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Thanks guys,
You both confirmed what I was pretty sure of but couldn't quite convince myself to start pouring till I knew. Since I'm running a hi-performance Yugo radiator (the only part of a Yugo worth saving...)I don't have a lot of room for error since it only holds about 2 quarts so I can stand a little extra capacity and flow in the block and heads, especially around the two center exhaust ports. Not sure why the factory didn't drill water holes between the two center cylinders at the bottom but drilling them out definitely helps eliminate air-pocket syndrome and draw off heat from the two center exhaust valves. By the way has anyone used the Moroso block filler?? Once again, thanks [This message has been edited by 23T-Wedge (edited July 19, 2000).] |
#5
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Do you tilt the block to make one deck level and do one side at a time?
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#6
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TL,
Yes, you need to tilt the block at 45 degrees so that the deck for the side you are filling is level, side to side and front to back. The block filler needs to cure overnight so its usually a two day operation. Doesn't ever pay to rush this job... |
#7
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I level my deck from side to side and rear to rear then pour in the filler (HARDBLOK) until it just gets over the freeze plugs. Then I install a cylinder head and torque it down and let set overnight. Never had a problem with cooling actually it kinda works like a heat sink. Also before you pour take a penlight and look down in the water jackets between the cylinders and make sure there is no rust build up or cast that would interfere with circulation.
[This message has been edited by Challenger (edited July 19, 2000).] |
#8
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Challenger,
Thanks for reminding about installing and torqueing the head. Totally forgot to mention it. Man, I hate growing old!!! |
#9
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23T-Wedge
Man, another thing that we both forgot to mention is also torque the main caps. Duh! |
#10
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Its' finally happened, I've forgotten more than I remember.....(as he quietly putters off into the sunset mumbling "Iwannahemi, Iwannahemi....)
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#11
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i've been this route and ruined a really nice #230 400 block. Like all the other guys, make sure the cement is below the head bolt bosses, or the water can't circulate between the cylinders. hemi 2.
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