roller cams Help

[carloscuda]

I'm building a 440 engine with 415 stroke cranck, 906 heads, and aluminum rods and pistons 12.5:1 compression, I need your advise on wich roller cam will work better, I also have an Indy intake with a 1150 dominator that I'm planning to use but if any other combination performes better I would not hassitate to try it. any help is appreciate. By the way this goes in a 71 cuda, is already tubbed and has plenty run for 14x32's.

[GTXMONTE]

Call Scott Brown @Straightline Perf. he has developed a new line of mope specific cams that are really impressive. Don't have the number here at the puter, but go to www.racemufflers.com and get the number or leave an Email. He can hook you up.

Monte Smith

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SURGEON GENERALS WARNINGrag Racing is highly addictive, and may impair your ability to make rational decisions.

[Cameron's Racing]

I have good luck with Comp cams.

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66 Belv 440 auto 10.76 @125
69 RR 426 wedge auto 9.69 @ 140

[Beeracuda]

We've been running the UltraDynes for about 4 years. They will also regrind their cam, if you mess it up...like we have.
http://www.ultradyne.com

Monty

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Monty Brown
74 Barracuda
446 / PG
10.14 /134

[carloscuda]

Originally posted by Cameron's Racing:
I have good luck with Comp cams.

What spec. did you use? duration, lobe separation, lift, etc. thanks for your help.
Carlos

[Dave A]

Carlos,.. you might want to consider a Crane roller cam and cam followers. I use a fairly small (0.625")one # 688211. I think they have a newer part number for this lift but it is close to mine in specifications. I like mine and it stands up to pretty abusive use. You seem to have all the hardware for the block but for the heads you need to get roller rockers, hardened rocker shafts, correct weight springs and have your 906 heads worked to get the right spring platform. Comp cams have the best price for springs but look around. Get the 10 degree locks and titanium retainers if you can afford them. Also be sure that the valve guide/seals don't collide with the valve locks at full lift. You'll need to have them put in ~2.20 intakes and ~1.82 exhausts valves in those heads. If you don't go 'full boat' for headwork on those cylinder heads you won't get enough air to make the cam work up at the ~7000 rpm range. Is this a street car or a racer (I should have asked earlier)? If you are only going to race it only, put in block filler. If it's a street car I would aim for around 0.500" lift solid cam and save the money on a lot of stuff I mentioned . Use arp fasteners for rods and crankshaft. Use a 1/2" oil pickup if you go stock (high volume) pump and use a milodon or moroso 8 quart pan. Milodon oil systems work but they are expensive but a lot cheaper than a ruined motor. Sorry for getting carried away.

[fast68plymouth]

carlos, if i were you, id be looking at a cam with about 280@.050, and as close to .700 lift as you can get, and ground on a 108lsa. pick your favorite brand.

[340king]

Your combo looks good, but I would recommend using a better head. The 906 head can make some great HP, but you will have to work much harder at it. I think you could get a set of aftermarket heads, run a flat tappet cam and run as fast or faster than with the roller cam and cast heads. The only reason that I mention this is the increased strain the roller cam puts on all the valvetrain components. They make power, but they exact a price in construction and upkeep. Just an alternative idea.

[fast68plymouth]

340king, actually a smooth roller design is alot easier on parts than almost all of the new high rate solids that everyone is using. you have to remember, that a large CI motor with 906 heads isnt going to make any real power in the upper rpm's, so you wont need to beat up the valvetrain by trying to twist the motor real high, and the roller with its higher lift will allow the motor to make more power within the usable rpm range.