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#1
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have 95 ram 1500 pu, 318, has 96000 miles new trans at 30000, new od at40000 now when it shifts i have 1-2-0-and od where is drive and why did it fail AGAIN ? sunday unit never hauls anything more than stroller&equally heavy stuff. It has had other small problems that were handled O K! heater,3 fuel pumps, 2 serial # s. 1ST new dodge I ever owned & maybe last: the shop said it may cost ONLY $1400 to repair it. WHY! if i have it repaired ,will it happen again? & how soon ?
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#2
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Do you ride around town with the overdrive on? The overdrive button should ALWAYS be in the off position unless you are OVER 45 MPH. When I was a Parts Manager we did a little test about this with a friends 97 Dakota Sport Club Cab 4X4, 318 Auto. I made sure he never put it in overdrive unless he was on the interstate or similar highway. He ran the crap out of that truck and never had any problems. The thing is this, using OD at less than highway speeds causes the tranny to shift in and out of OD, which causes wear and heat. Heat is the #1 killer of automatic transmissions. I did the warranty paper work on a lot of tranny problems and most of the time the owner left it in OD all the time because he, "got better mileage that way." Who cares about MPG when you have to worry about miles per tranny?
~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~ |
#3
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Hey as of this morning my cousin went for a ride in my pup with the wife, they came to a complete stop an shut off the overdrive. The trans shifted perfectly from 1st to 2nd, but would not shift to third unless you let off the throttle. So third is there but it is not shifting there. They then went into o d manually and then it shifted in as normal. A repeat attempt and it did the same thing. So is the computer bad, or could it be the valve body, or something else? Thanx djdjdjdj!
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#4
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Hey as of this morning my cousin went for a ride in my pup with the wife, they came to a complete stop an shut off the overdrive. The trans shifted perfectly from 1st to 2nd, but would not shift to third unless you let off the throttle. So third is there but it is not shifting there. They then went into o d manually and then it shifted in as normal. A repeat attempt and it did the same thing. So is the computer bad, or could it be the valve body, or something else? Thanx djdjdjdj!
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#5
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I'm not a transmission man, but I will say this: Chrysler transmission control modules will get "confused" sometimes and need to be reset. I don't know what causes this, but you can almost always get one to act funny by shifting through the gears manually a few times. I remember test driving a 93 Intrepid before my Mom bought it, and on interstate it would not shift up to overdrive. Not a good sign when you are test driving a new car. We pulled over, shut the engine off for a few seconds, per the owners manual, and it did fine on restart. We went on to purchase that very car and had no trouble out of it. Believe it or not, these powertrain control modules "learn" your driving style. I think that when you start doing things manually, that it gets confused as to whether to follow it's programming, or the manual override. I seem to remember this being the reason for developing the Autostick option. As I said before, generally shutting of the engine for a few seconds will reset the computer and fix it unless there is a more serious problem.
------------------ ~Elwenil~ ~.\|/.~ |
#6
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First some Info, ist 2nd & 3rd are hydraulicly shifted (just like the old 3spd's)& o/d is controlled by the pcm - It sounds like you lost the front clutch - If someone repairs it, make sure they check the seal SURFACE inside the drum. In 95 thru late 96 there were alot of poorly machined drums which cause premature seal wear & failure of this clutch. One symton of this is a long 2-3 shift. It's not a computor problem & I highly doubt a v/body problem. Hope this will help fix this for GOOD!!
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#7
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you have a front clutch seal problem very comon trans must come out tell who ever does the trans to go to dodge dealer and get a new front clutch retainer the seal surface problem has been solved.
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#8
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Need more information please!
My 96 1500 4WD is having the same problem of not wanting to shift from 2-3. I found these old posts about problems with the front drum seal. What do I need replaced the drum, seal etc. then one post say's the seal retainer needs to be replaced. Can someone clarify this for me. When I have my trany rebuilt I don't want to miss anything.
Thanks!! apennington |
#9
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It's the same thing
What he's calling a clutch retainer, I refer to as the front drum. Both are correct. If you look carefully or better yet use your finger nail, on the surface that the seal rides on, it will look & feel like a record. That is a bad drum. The new one will be smooth. Anytime you pull a trans apart, I recomend resealing the whole thing so you have all new seals.
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#10
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Quote:
yeah go to the dealer...right!!! and youll have to keep on going too..........at least thats the experience i had with mine.....1996 ram 1500 2wd. i hat the dealer.......for almost anything....i went to levelten in hamburg n.j. and all my tranny woes went away.... |
#11
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Front Drum Part Number?
Thanks guys for the quick response!
Does anyone happen to know the part number for the front drum for my 46RE? Is this just the drum itself? I also read somewhere that the front drum out of a 47RE will fit in the 46 and allows you to use more clutch plates, is this true? Also is there anything else that anyone could recommend when I take my truck in to have the transmission rebuilt? I want it to be as bullet proof as possible without breaking the bank. My truck is equiped with a factory tranmission cooler that is mounted between the radiator and the condensor. I have called around to a few shops and the going price for a rebuild is in the $1300 - $1500 range, but that didn't include a new front drum. The local Dodge dealership wanted $1800 to rebuild it or he could sell me a Dodge remanufactured unit for a mere $3000. Thanks guys I really appriciate the help!!! apennington |
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