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#1
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My dad's 67 cuda with a 340 has a hot starting problem. Sometimes it will run quite a while and then quit while he is driving. Other times it will run fine, but won't start soon after being driven. We've tried a bunch of different things like new ballast resistor, carb spacer, new coil and thermaly isolating the coil. The carb is an Edelbrock performer 600cfm. This car also has an electric fuel pump. I have the same carb on my 340 and when I press down the pedal you can cleary see a spray of fuel into the carb - pump shot I think is the term. I don't see this on my dad's carb even when it is running normally, or before a cold start. Could these things be related? My folks aren't really that mechanically inclined so the engine dying is a real turn off. This is a fully restored convertible which they just want to be able to cruise around in on a nice day without fear of it killing. What can I do to track down the problem next time I visit? Thanks,
Keith |
#2
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There is no fuel when first starting? With the electric pump you the carb should be full
before you try to start it. You should see lots of gas come out the squirters when you press the throttle. If it was only when its hot I would say its vapour lock. If its all the time you need to check the fuel system. The pump might be bad, kinked line, filter, filter in the tank plugged. You should hook up a pressure gauge and see how much pressure it has. You can find a cheap pressure/vacuum gauge and put a tee in the line. I run the holley blue pump. I set the regulater at 7 pounds. I know the max for a holley is 7. I'm not sure about the Edelbrock. I think you should have at least 4-5 pounds. |
#3
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Do you have points or electronic ignition.
I have had similiar problems (actually twice) with electronic ignition when the pick-up coil was on the way out. |
#4
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Keith, It sounds like the float is sticking closed keeping fuel from going into the carb. Has it always had this problem or is it something new? The needle seat could be gummed up, dirt or old gas can slow or stop the movement of the float or the float could be bad. The float could be hitting the side of the carb and just need an slight adjustment. You may want to pick up a rebuild kit when you go dowm. That will probably fix the problem. Good Luck. Larry
-------------------- 71 Charger 383 |
#5
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This car has the MP electronic ignition with the orange box. I wonder if when I was checking for fuel when pressing the pedal if I had let the electric fuel pump pressure up. I think I would have thought of that but I can't be sure. If I'm getting pressure to the carb, and I don't see fuel squirting, its got to be the carb right?
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#6
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If you have pressure to the carb it must be the carb. The only time I have had floats
or needle and seat stick. The car either didn't run or it flooded out. If there is enough gas on the primary side for the car too run there should be gas in the acelerator pump. Maybe the pump is worn out. Its hard when you don't see it for yourself. |
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