some signs cam has been installed wrong

[Gromski]

Degreed it with a wheel, piston stop,indicator, followed the directions over and over.What would some of the signs be .When I 'm looking for tdc of #1 cylinder valves seemto open and close in sinc with tdc on the harmonic balancer.Had the car runnig today broke in cam at 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 min.Had to move distibutor off original start up point to get it to start ran really smooth for the 20min. Can't get it started again.PLEASE remember this is my first engine start up. This is all new to me,at age 47.My wife told me to get a hobby here I am.

[mauve66]

my 1 cent. if it started and ran smoothly for twenty minutes with no backfires i would say that the cam and plug wires should be o.k.. I wonder if the floats in the carb(forgot to notice what type of vehicle your working on) are not set right and you just got lucky with the first start and now it keeps flooding and the plugs won't fire when they are wet. If you are using an electronic ignition box, make sure that the vibration from running hasn't loosened the screws that ground it to the fire wall or where ever. My MP box does that once in a while 'cause the hole is stripped out, tighten the screw down and it lights instantly.

[440 Jim]

It sounds like you put the cam in correctly. You started it the first time and ran the break-in for the cam.

Since the only thing you changed from the first start-up is the iginition timing (distributor rotation), I would look to that as the problem.

Here are some thoughts. The ignition curve in the distributor is not too good. So, you had to compensate while running by changing the initial timing (turning distributor) to get it to run smooth. Things that could be wrong with the curve:
1) Mechanical advance
2) Vacuum advance
3) Point setting (if applicable)

To eliminate the question of the vacuum advance, just disconnect the vacuum line and plug it. That is for cruise efficiency.

Check the mechanical advance mechanism. It could be jammed, i.e. stuck, or a spring came off, etc.

Do everything you can to set the initial timing as best you can. Buzz box, ohm meter, continuity checker, etc. As long as the starter can crank it, anything between 0 and 20 degrees should start it easily. Before you move the distributor, try to estimate what the current (set during running) timing is.

Before you do anymore cranking, check as much simple stuff as you can. Continuity (or better yet resistance) of the ballast resistor, coil connections, fuel in the float bowl, etc.

Good luck,


------------------
440 Jim
E-Body Fish

[Gromski]

When it was runnig at 2500 rpm I put the timing light on it it read 30 degrees before.
the engine sounded very strong and was very smooth.

[MopART]

It is possible that the plugs are fouled. I know that's happened to me. Anyway, you may have to get another set of plugs - that wasn't mentioned.

Remember... If it ran once, it'll run again.

Questions:
What motor? What carb? What ignition, points or electronic?

ART

[Gromski]

Originally posted by MopART:
It is possible that the plugs are fouled. I know that's happened to me. Anyway, you may have to get another set of plugs - that wasn't mentioned.

Remember... If it ran once, it'll run again.

Questions:
W

hat motor? What carb? What ignition, points or electronic?

ART

its a 383 with a 750 Holley MP electronic conversion in a new 67 barracuda engine harness.

[hemi-1]

There are other possibilities, but I would first check to see if you're getting spark.

The MP control box HAS to be grounded well or it won't fire. Or it might fire the first time but not again (happened to me once). Just screwing the box to the inner fender generally isn't good enough. I always scrape the undercoating off the underside of the fender, and bolt it down, using serrated washer under the nut. Or it you've screwed it to the firewall and can't get to the backside, try running a ground strap from the box to the frame.

Also, make sure the reluctor gap is correct. Too large a gap and it will crank but not start. (Or, start once but not again--this has happened to me too.)

[wedgehead]

You can check plug firing by taking the #1 plug out, put it back into the plug wire, then ground the metal side of the plug to the frame. Crank the engine over a few times with the plug grounded. It should fire. If not you've either fouled the plugs(plugs wet with fuel?) or you have ignition problem. Check your ballast resistor. With the switch in the ON position you should have 12V on the hot side. With the switch in the cranking position on the other side of the resistor you should now have 11-12V. Good luck, Wedgehead