voltage at coil key on

[Gromski]

Engine cranks but won't start got it started yesterday I was cranking my brother was on the distributor,had to turn it counterclockwise,maybe an eighth turn, from the #1 tower rotor line up to getit to start.Finally starts ran it at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 min to break in cam.After 20 min tried to bring idle down car stalled,haven't been able to start it since.
I have 4.96 volts at the coil+ with key on.
I have 9.96 volts with key cranking at coil+
I have 11.6 volts on the feed side of the ballast resistor.
I have 5. volts on the opposite side of the resistor.

[dojrt71]

Is the ballast resistor connected?

[Gromski]

Originally posted by dojrt71:
Is the ballast resistor connected?

yes the ballast resistor is connected theres 11.6 volts ,due too much cranking,on the feed side and 5. volts on the opposite side.

[dojrt71]

Sorry, obviously the resistor is connected. What about the fuel pump, pushrod etc? Are you getting gas?

[Gromski]

Originally posted by dojrt71:
Sorry, obviously the resistor is connected. What about the fuel pump, pushrod etc? Are you getting gas?

7-lbs of pressure have gauge in line

[dojrt71]

Here's what I'd do next:

1. Check to make sure you're getting spark to the plugs.
2. Check the integrity of the distributor cap.
3. Visually check the spark timing. Turn crank by hand to TDC compression. Take the dist. cap off & see if the rotor is near #1.
4. Do a compression check to see if the cam is correct and you don't have bent valves or pushrods. I know you were uncertain about the cam installation. Sometimes an engine with an incorrectly installed cam will run but it will stall when under load.

[Larry]

I know you said you are getting gas to the carb but is it coming out of it? Are the floats stuck? Just a thought. Larry

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71 Charger 383