Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-04-2000, 07:37 AM
tim tim is offline
islcuda
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Port McNeill B.C. Canada
Age: 63
Posts: 402
Question

hi guys, question for you. A lot of times I drive car , come back home and shut car off. If I immediately try starting it starts right up. If I leave it for about 5 min. it won,t start.Coil gets very hot, can only touch for a few seconds.Accel regular chrome coil. Have tried 2 other older coils and same thing happens.New ballist resistor, same thing. New ECU, same thing happens. If I ground plug out on manifold and try starting it , sometimes spark sometimes not. Sometimes car will start on 7 cylinders. What the hey is going on, hope someone can help. The only thing that is different from when I rebuilt motor is the distributor.With my old one we couldnot get vaccum advance to work, so a freind gave me his old one. It wouldn,t work on vaccum either, so we left his in and it,s running fine on mechanical advance. When car is running it runs great.Have to wait for it to cool down before it will start again. Anyone ever have this happen? Help driving me nuts. Tim

------------------
73bcuda
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-04-2000, 07:46 AM
SB Racer SB Racer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Oulu, Finland
Age: 55
Posts: 131
Wink

Had the exactly same problem years ago. New coil was the cure for my SB then, but since you have tried this it could be the plugs. Maybe your plugs run too hot, try one step colder. Won't hurt anything.

TeRo http://www.angelfire.com/mo/racevaliant

------------------
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-05-2000, 01:43 AM
Exit1965 Exit1965 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 30
Post

I had the exact same problem. The replies I got on another BBS were everything from starter heat to ground.

The car would start up cold just great.. it would run fine. If we started it after 5-10 mins it'd start right up, but at some point after that it'd just crank.

The solution was (after we knew we had spark coming out of the coil --a mallory promaster) closing the gap in our electronic distributor (it was at .015-- much too far but we didnt check it). We lowered it to about .004. I think the advised gap is .008, but .004 worked fine. Now it starts fine cold/hot.

My advice (you say u have an ECU, i assume u have an eleltronic dist) would be to close this gap until it fires. Even if it's less than .008. You need to use a nonmagnetic guage of some kind -- I ended up measuring various things and found a "thin" index card type thing that measured .007, close enough.

Your problem sounds exactly like mine -- i'd be surprised if this didnt work!

Good luck
David
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-05-2000, 02:07 AM
toolman toolman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Temecula, California, USA
Age: 61
Posts: 154
Post

I agree with Exit1965 that the gap should be checked, But be careful if you readjust it closer. I had my reluctor hit the pickup after about 10 minutes of running and they chewed each other to pieces and tore everything apart. I'm sure the adjuster screw was tight but I don't know what happened. I would go with the recommended .008 . Also a hot carb can actually boil the fuel away and you get vapor lock. I added a thick thermal carb gasket and that helped alot. I would check the timing for sure, and make sure it is between 32 and 38 Total advance with the vacuum advance hose undone and plugged at the carb. I'd check the plug wires also. Look for white or light spots on them which can signal a break even though they seem okay. When they get hot they expand and a broken wire will then give you trouble, but be okay when cold. All of these things to check have been the problem at one point or another for me, over the years. I don't trust used distributors either and would change it last if nothing else fixes the problem. Good luck!

[This message has been edited by toolman (edited April 04, 2000).]
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-06-2000, 04:41 AM
440Ramcharger's Avatar
440Ramcharger 440Ramcharger is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Tempe AZ
Age: 65
Posts: 382
Post

Bingo with the last two posts. Had the same thing with a 340 Duster. Tweeked it to a snug .006"
Z
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-06-2000, 01:00 PM
tim tim is offline
islcuda
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Port McNeill B.C. Canada
Age: 63
Posts: 402
Thumbs up

Thanks guys. I will set gap at reluctor and maybe close it a little bit at a time until I get to about .oo4 . Just have to wait for a dry day now. Then I will post how I made out. Thanks again. Tim Walton

------------------
73bcuda
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-08-2000, 12:12 AM
W150RAM W150RAM is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Surry, Va. us
Posts: 4
Thumbs up

Just a short reminder. Don't for get to use a brass feeler gage when checking the gap.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-08-2000, 04:17 AM
tim tim is offline
islcuda
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Port McNeill B.C. Canada
Age: 63
Posts: 402
Post

Hello, Just a quick question. What should voltage at the coil be. When I test it with the key on it,s at 6.2, on the possitive side, shouldn,t it be the same as my battery, 12.3 volts.Thanks guys for being very helpful. tim

------------------
73bcuda
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-08-2000, 09:16 PM
SubLime440 SubLime440 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Denver CO, USA
Posts: 359
Post

I have a similar problem on my '70 Challenger...It starts great when it's cold but let it warm up and it will not start (Cranks Fine) until I let it cool back down...Does this sound the same?

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-09-2000, 06:06 AM
wedgehead wedgehead is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Jackson, Miss.
Posts: 318
Post

Hello Tim:
The voltage at the coil should be 11.5 to 12v in the on position. Also at the resistor in the on position you should have this same voltage. Then in the cranking position this voltage should jump to the other side of the resistor. If it doesn't, then your resistor is defective. It sounds like you have a problem between your battery and coil. Work on getting 11.5v to your coil in the on position. Start at your battery, check your voltage, and run it all the way to the coil to find the culprit. Good luck!! wedgehead
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-09-2000, 08:47 AM
My2ndMopar My2ndMopar is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Fremont, Ca. US of A
Posts: 5
Post

I'll throw in another possibility...you say you have the vacuum advance disconnected? Does this mean you alo have bumped up the initial timing to compensate?

If so, you may have too much initial timing to spin a warm motor.

I'm not really up on the Mopar distributors and how they use vacuum advance, but it may be a possibility. Another thing may be heak soaked starter/solenoid as well.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-10-2000, 06:13 AM
tim tim is offline
islcuda
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Port McNeill B.C. Canada
Age: 63
Posts: 402
Question

Thanks guys. Sublime 440, yes exact same problem. My2ndmopar, voltage at the wire on the positive side of coil is 12v with the wire off, drops to 6.2 when I connect to coil and turn key on, I will trace wires from battery to coil. Wedgehead the timing is set a 10 on idle and 34 on high rpm. I have set gap on reluctor at .oo7 and it still does it. I just wonder if it,s a grounding problem? It,s ground from the neg side of battery to manifold, also from firewall to manifold under the coil post. It is an aluninim manifold with stainless bolts????

------------------
73bcuda
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-12-2000, 04:33 PM
adrian tambascio adrian tambascio is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 5
Post

There may be other problems restarting your car, but I’ll include my two-cents worth about the Mopar ignition system.
1 - Mopar ECU’s (Electronic Control Unit’s) orange, chrome or gold box are all switching-type ignitions. Regardless of what others on this website have said, you need a ballast resistor in the circuit to limit the primary current in the coil and the ECU to prevent over-heating and reduced life of these parts while the engine is running. Capacitive discharge ignitions like MSD, Accel, Jacobs, etc. may not need the ballast resistor because they operate on a different principle. When you convert from older (or original) Mopar electronic distributor to the newer type (from Mopar Performance), you’ll notice that they use a single ballast resistor as opposed to the older dual-type. They found they simply don’t need a dual resistor if the single resistor is the correct value.
2 - With the ignition switch in On or Start, full battery voltage should be at the primary of your coil.
3 - In the Run position the voltage should drop down to about 9-11 volts. Keeping in mind that a fully charged battery is closer to 14 volts!
I would first go through all of your grounds: Clean surfaces under all ground points, use a star-washer to get good grounds. Other suggestions may be valid, but I found that poor grounds is the root of hot-starting problems. Chrysler and Ford use a separate starting relay to avoid the “hot-starting” problems that chevy has with their built-on starter solenoid!.
Also, be sure the Accel coil you’re using is not the drag-only type (#14036) as this coil will get hot and eventually burn out.
The reluctor should be set to factor
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-14-2000, 02:07 AM
moparsofcamelot moparsofcamelot is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: pacific,missouri
Posts: 96
Post

Agree with Adrian. Also a easy look test is remove the box when it's hot and look for gaps in the sealant on the back. Depending on where you install it, life can be shorter. I have a 64 Polara 500 w/a6pack. Mine is in the undercarriage. Had the same thing, now I don't. Don't forget the ballast resistor can be important in some cases.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-15-2000, 10:10 PM
mtrv8n mtrv8n is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: new york city
Posts: 904
Post

Do you smell any gas?..Reason I ask..
I had a hot start problem too, and it turned out to be a leaky gasket on my holley650. I could even hear the fuel making a wierd noise as it hit the hot manifold. When cold, all this extra fuel actually helps starts, but hot it just floods the system. try taking your air cleaner off when sh'e hot, and look for a dry carb....if its wet..well, there ya go!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 04-16-2000, 05:44 AM
tim tim is offline
islcuda
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Port McNeill B.C. Canada
Age: 63
Posts: 402
Thumbs up

Hi guys. Think I have problem solved. Cleaned all grounds and added one more on cylinder head to frame, set gap at reluctor at .007, changed coil to mopar coil. Traced all wires and checked out fine. Tried it today. Set carb up a little better, was running a little rich. Still is on drivers side , but when I adjust screw, nothing happens. When warm it is a little hard to start but it fires right up just like it did before rebuild. freinds machine helped set idle mixtures on eddlebrock, just rich on one side, but only at idle, don,t plan on idling much anyway. Still not confident it is fixed but twice today there was lots of spark after it was warmed up. I will keep you posted. Thanks tim lots of info here, been very very helpful

------------------
73bcuda
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-16-2000, 06:04 AM
tim tim is offline
islcuda
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Port McNeill B.C. Canada
Age: 63
Posts: 402
Thumbs up

hey mtrv8n I think you also are onto something. Eddlebrock carb is definetly riich at idle on drivers side. Tried adjusting that screw but nothing would happen. Thinking of changing to 650 holly double pumper anyway as all my freinds say they are a better carb anyway. I held carb wide open and there didn,t seem to be any extra feul going in there or any sign of boiling feul either, but it,s definitly running to rich Thanks tim

------------------
73bcuda
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help!! The dinging is driving me nuts!!!!!! Upaunoz Ram Truck Chat 2 07-04-2007 10:37 AM
Driving me nuts new motor install 23T Performance Talk 12 06-28-2004 06:55 PM
It's driving me nuts!!! RamJohn Ram Truck Chat 5 01-02-2002 03:40 PM
Oil pressure gauge is driving me nuts! Frans Veldman Performance Talk 7 11-26-2001 10:25 AM
CLICK noise driving me NUTS!!!!!!!!!! Custom Durango Durango Chat 5 11-19-2001 09:52 AM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .