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#1
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I am running about 425 horses through a built 727 to a stock 8 1/4. This is in 73 sattelite. I wanted to rebuild and beef up the 8 1/4 and put a set of gears in around 355's. Has anyone ever used randys ring and pinion? They have complete positraction and locker units and a couple different setups that I think would work well. If not where would you reccomend for gears. Im pretty sure the 8 1/4 will stand up with a limited slip unit in. I don't know much about rear ends, how about Auburn Units?? Thanks.
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#2
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Using an 8 1/4 in a A body with a healthly smallbock is marginal at best and to have that much hp and in the heavier B body in my opinion you're really pushing the limit of the 8 1/4 rear end.
I think you would be money ahead investing in an 8 3/4 or dana for your car. The B body rear ends are fairly easy to find complete or can be built to your specs from scratch. just my penny's worth. carl P.S. you can go to my site and see some diff views of chrysler rear ends at this url: http://members.xoom.com/dustermocar/techpage.htm ------------------ mocar or nopar [This message has been edited by carl (edited March 08, 2000).] |
#3
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how about for my '88 Dak? what goes in this thing anyway? You think the 8 1/4 would hold up to 425 hp and a built trans in this truck, for racing and towing?
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#4
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I'm running an 8 1/4 in my 87 Diplomat, which maybe has 220hp with my mods. I'll bet I have better traction than you will and I don't break my axle.
If you can actually hook your truck up with that much hp and more importantly torque I'd seriously think about another type of rear. The key is traction, I can make an 8 1/4 live behind a hemi IF it's an automatic and I have no traction. If you can hook up you're eventually going to grenade this rear with your estimated power. Better to spend the cash on an 8 3/4 now. Steve |
#5
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Yes I've used Randy's Ring and pinion.. Great prices,, got a 390;1 set-up a posi.unit all gaskets and bearings all instructions included , for about $500.oo then went out and got ULTIMATE 10 BOLT COVER with main cap studs....BULLET PROOF, No problems for my 8 1/4, The Ultaimate 10 keeps your main caps in place during hard launches..MOPAR TO YA!! IF you can find an 8 3/4 go for it, you can also get c-clip eliminators..
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#6
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I have a 68 Cuda and am looking to go with a 8 1/4 just for the convinience of not having to modify a 8 3/4 (besides, I don't have that many horses anyway). Once I find it, I plan on running 3.90s and a limited-slip as well, so I was happy to hear about your setup. Where can I get a hold of the number to this shop with the good prices?
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#7
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I got an 8 1/4 in my Duster 340 that I put
4.55:1 cogs in with an Aubern posi and have no trouble getting it to hook or breaking and have raced the car for about a year now the mill produces around 500 horses before nitrous. I did howevercome across a few guys who use a 7 1/4 setup that is all most as good as an 8 3/4 unit if you want my honest opinion you gotta go DANA 60 expensive but worth the money |
#8
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I have a 75 dart sport with an 8.25" and I had a 8.75" from a 69 Barracuda 2.76ratio with suregrip but sold it because it was going to cost too much for custom Moser axles ($300), new ring and pinion ($200) and I would have to shorten the driveshaft($???). I sold it and bought a welder. It cost me $250 and I thought I could do better later with a B-body 8.75" with the spring mounts moved. I am putting in a 360 with about 400hp so do I need a 8.75???
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