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  #1  
Old 12-27-1999, 06:14 PM
Rich33 Rich33 is offline
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Question

I'm putting together a new 360 for circle track racing and would like to get ideas on what's the best overall value in adjustable rockers. I figure that since you have to pay around 200 just to buy adjustables (short of running the antique 273 stuff), you might as well go the roller rocker route.
Am I thinking right on this?

Anyway, the engine's stock crank and rods, KB 11.9-1 pistons, MP solid cam for circle track with numbers around 284 and 520, J heads with big stainless valves.

It seems like the Comp Cams roller rockers comes with everything you need. Is that right? How about the Harland Sharps? From what I've read it seems like you've got to do a lot of extra work to get the Crane Cams version installed. I'd appreciate any help.

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  #2  
Old 12-27-1999, 10:55 PM
Thunderstruck Thunderstruck is offline
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Erson makes a nice roller tip and needle bearing fulcrum for the LA motor. If I was to go roller this is what I'd get. Not sure on the price though but they calim it's about the price of other adjustables.

Steve
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  #3  
Old 12-28-1999, 01:18 AM
cudadude cudadude is offline
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the harland sharps are very pricey and you still have to buy the shafts and accessories. the crane golds come as complete assys. they are pretty much a bolt in with minor clearance checking. you will have to run tall valve covers with them.
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  #4  
Old 12-28-1999, 02:18 PM
billyclub billyclub is offline
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The Crane Golds are an excellent rocker for the money. Have run .828 lift at the valve without problem! I don't like the Harlan Sharps because I have seen them break at the fulcrum..
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  #5  
Old 12-28-1999, 06:29 PM
JohnnyMopar JohnnyMopar is offline
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I agree on the Crane product, they are fine pieces. I witnessed Harland Sharp nightmares first hand...stay away from em. I would also recommend checking with Koffell's Place. Yes the B-1 guys. I bought a set of Billet 1.7 aluminum RR's for my 395 W-2 SB and they were fantastic. I'm not sure if they make a set for the regular head, but it's worth a call.

By the way, I have a complete set of Ductile Iron adjustables with MP Banana groove shafts I would part with.

Good luck.

JM
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  #6  
Old 12-29-1999, 12:11 AM
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Christopher Christopher is offline
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We use the gold Crane units on a 440 with no problems at all.
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  #7  
Old 12-29-1999, 02:41 AM
340king 340king is offline
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I would carefully inspect any rocker that you get for the interference that was mentioned above. The rocker side of the reatiner is always close, especially with aftermarket springs and retainers. You will need to check this regardless of style and manufacturer.

In an endurance oriented application, I might look towards a steel rocker. Aluminum does not have a fatigue life and will break some day after enough stress-strain cycles. Now this may take several years of abuse, but it will happen. Steel rockers on the other hand can have an infinite fatigue life if stresses are kept below the critical stress level. In short you could keep steel rockers for many many seasons running them on several engines.
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  #8  
Old 12-29-1999, 10:57 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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In my case the Cranes and the Indys lasted four years of use. With the Cranes, three rockerarms broke on a same day, I think it's consistent quality.
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  #9  
Old 05-03-2000, 03:32 PM
Jay Hansen Jay Hansen is offline
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jhonny mopar I would be interested in your metal roller rockers if you still have them and see this messege???? for my 340 "72" will they fit????? quasi_79@yahoo.com
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2000, 06:21 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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By all means go with an aftermarket roller tip rocker. The iron stock type rocker is not consistent(ratio wise) and leads to excess valve guide wear with high lift cams. I personally like the Norris stainless unit which uses the stock type bronze bushing and shaft with a roller tip. They will run thousands of laps without failure. But, I have a friend who has a similiar engine to yours who has probably run 3-4000 laps with Comp rockers without a problem. Just confine its use to flat tappet spring pressures and .500-.575" lifts for an oval track application.
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  #11  
Old 05-04-2000, 06:28 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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By all means use an aftermarket roller tip rocker. The stock type ductile iron units are very inconsistent (ratio wise). I personally prefer the Norris stainless units for high spring pressure/ high lifts. They will run thousands of laps without failure. But, I have a friend with an engine about the same as yours who probably has 3-4000 laps on a set of Comp rockers. Just confine its use to flat tappet spring pressures and .500-.575" lift.
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2000, 10:18 AM
SB Racer SB Racer is offline
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My experiences: Seen Harlands broke on the adjuster ball, they were made too hard. Otherwise they are good pieces. I used Speed Pro rollers two years on street and races, no probs.
MP bushed "Racing Rockers" for W-5 heads, oh no. I broke the tip twice with only 120 lbs springs. That was definately a monday model.
Now I've been using Crane golds for two years and they show no wear at all. Very pleased one can tell. Buddy has a set of Norris steel rockers on shelf, looks nice but no experience on them so far. I think that any aluminium rollers will take your punishment for years.

TeRo http://www.angelfire.com/mo/racevaliant

------------------
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2000, 11:17 PM
hemigtx hemigtx is offline
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I stumbled onto a set of comp cam "magnum" roller rockers. Only problem I had was crushing the adjuster balls on a couple rockers when I was using those P.O.S. anti-pump lifters. After trashing the lifters I swiped some spare adjuster screws I had for my hemi. They fit perfect (except now I have to use an allen wrench AND a flat blade screwdriver to set the lash). These rockers are STRONG and don't have that annoying "moan" that the aluminum ones have. I've been running them on the street and track for almost 4 years with NO more problems.
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