|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Can someone who is using the partial fender well 440 A Body Pro Parts Headers (formerly McCandless) supply me with a piture of how they fit? I want to run snout tubes to tie my 12 point cage together, but don't want to interfere with the headers.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
The "Pro Parts" name is a misnomer.Pro Parts was sold about 20 years ago to.....Herb McCandless.These headers are still in the pipeline,now sold by Hensley in Tennesee.I have these in my 71 Demon and I am having a 12pt cage installed in the off season.The foreward tubes on the cage going to the front frame rails wont interfere with the headers or vice-versa.I don't have access to a scanner anymore,so I have no way to post pictures.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Christopher,
I have conversed with you about these headers on a few occasions. I purchased mine from Bob Mazzolini Racing in CA ("which are listed in his catalog as "Pro Parts Headers"). They are a pretty interesting design. I am removing my inner fenders for ease of maintenance, and having the shock tower brackets welded to the bars. A friend of mine did this to his Duster and it tied the chassis together making it quite ridgid and looked nice as well. I was skeptical at first because it seems by removing the inners weakens the stuctural integrity of the body, until this solution was brought to my attention. I remember in a response some time ago that these headers fit tight with a trans sheild? I can see where that could be an obstacle. Did you have to modify the floor tunnel to fit the sheild? Seems you and I are the only fan of these headers! I think fenderwell headers have many drawbacks, and the CPPA's are just too tight in there. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Brian C, I am building a '73 440 Duster, and also installed a 12 pt. cage, removed the inner fender panels, and attached my shock towers to the forward bars. I also am a fan of semi-fenderwell headers, as these seem to be the best design with the least number of compromises. For some reason, this design doesn't get alot of press. I e-mailed Christopher about the concern I had about the headers hitting the forward bars, and he laid those concerns to rest. Now, who carries the better header design, Bob Mazzolini or Hensley?
Hey Christopher, you don't need a scanner to e-mail photos. Just go to Walgreen's and they will put them on a Photo CD. ------------------ 1973 Duster Pro Street 446 Roller Motor/727 |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you for the indo Dave! I am assuming that they are the same design. It looks like there are only so many ways to resolve this header issue. I just got home from a car cruise show. A guy had a 68 Barracuda with the TTI underchassis. They are tight but look nice. He had to push the driver side inner fender a bit. Please keep me updated on your project! I am interested!
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
I made a few phone calls about this and it seems that the "Pro Parts" and the McCandless/Hensley headers are the same product.I never heard of them called Pro Parts headers until I got on this board.Maybe that's how they are reffered to in the west.No big deal.I don't have a trans sheild installed due to the headers.I have a TCI unit,but it will not fit.I'm on the understanding that the carbon fiber deal that RCI makes will.Personally, I really like these headers,except for the trans shield interference.With a set of "elephant ears" and these headers,we can pull the engine in about 20 minutes.We have also trimmed a bit of fenderwell out around the headers,but not around the shock towers,just on the lower side panels where the headers actually go thru.I like these tubes because of the fact you can use a tall front tire.(We use the 7.10x15 Moroso)I personally feel that the CPPA headers are not worth the effort and on a all out race car,the Schumacher tubes won't be enough,although the Schumachers are of excellent quality and would be a great choice for a street/strip car.The Hooker fenderwells are a nightmare in my opinion.The only other headers I'm considering are the Stahl's,but at $900.00,I'll be considering them for a long time. DusterDave,Thanks for the photo cd idea,I'm not computer smart,so tell me what to do after I have the cd made!!
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Christopher,
I agree with you on this matter. I am a bit leary about the trans sheild, but I have to either use one, or a heat isolating blanket. I am using a 1 peice motor plate, and a mid mount plate. With and no inner fenders should make it easy to install, and remove. Duster Dave, Are you using the stock dashboard? Do any of the tubes interfere, or does the dash require modification? Sounds like you are a few steps ahead of me. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Brian,
My forward bars touch the very bottom of my stock dash. I didn't want to cut it up. I kept my stock dash and door panels, so it would still look like a Duster inside (beyond that, forget about it!). If you like, I can send you or post here some photos of my project. BTW, is your car going to see any street time, or is it strictly race? What is it anyway? Christopher, The photo CD comes with its own software that allows you to edit the photos, and do all kinds of neat things with them. Walgreen's may have a coupon in the newspaper to get the CD for free. The software has an "install wizard" that makes it extremely easy to use. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Interesting about the dash... What I'm going to do is use a fiberglass dash and run the windsheild post tubes against the w/s posts,thru the dash about where the stock vin plate is,then down to the floor.Then I'll run the tubing from those thru the firewall and tie in the front framerails.The cross tube that normally would be in front of the dash(per NHRA rules)now will be between the dash and firewall.My car is strictly a race car,but I'm trying to keep it as if it were a 1970-71 Pro Stock car,so I'm not gutting the car.I'm also going to add a tubular steering column as well.As you can tell,I'm eliminating weight,but still have a "stock" looking car and keeping the theme of a early Pro car.The 'glass dash I've only found from a outfit in Canada and I belive it's $250.00 and they need 3-4 weeks to make it. Thanks for the info guys!!
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Duster Dave,
My car is a 1973 Plymouth Scamp with a 1972 Swinger clip ( Like Dart Swingers). I is going to see some street cruising, but limited to some local hang outs, and around town. I have taken the necessary precautions to make this happen. I am getting the big dollar stuff out of the way this year, so I can add on the other stuff later. No Tubs, no 4 link or ladder bars or anything fancy. I am doing as little as I have to due to budget. would really like to see some photos of your project. Please e-mail me. Will your car be street diven? Christopher, I have a friend who has a speed shop who deals with fiberglass, and may be able to get that dash you are looking for. He deals with a smaller fibergalss shop, but has had good success with their products. If you are interested, let me know and I will give you a name and number. I get all my parts from him,he has good prices and is a nice guy as well. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Hey guys.....please excuse my bad typing, grammar and spelling. I am NOT illiterate! Just always in a hurry.
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Brian,
I need to get your e-mail address, so I can send the photos. Keep in mind, if back-halfing or other major rear mods are in the future for your car, 'cage mounting points will change, and you will probably have to redo some of your rollcage tubes to accomodate those changes. Planning ahead will minimize the rework. I would suggest at least mini-tubbing the car, and moving the leaf springs inboard. It's relatively low dollars, and will get you alot more room for bigger tires. Just my 2 cents. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you for you input Dave. I may install mini tubs, and I am moving the sprins to the inside of the framerails. I have the 3" Mopar kit, but I am not crazy about cutting a notch out of the frame rails! Back halfing is not in any near future plans. Mini tubs are definitly a possibility. Which route did you go? I am going to have to measure to see how much my axles are to be cut.
My E-mail address is: SOSS72@aol.com Looking forward to those pics! |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
BrianC, Very interested in the fiberglass,let me know.I agree with DusterDave,I'd mini tub the car and move the springs inboard.It's a easy install,just have to take your time. DusterDave,If you don't mind,I'd like to see the pictures of your car as well.I'm always hunting for good ideas!!
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Christopher,
E-mail me at SOSS72@aol.com and I will give you the info. |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Christopher,
Sure, I'll send you the same photos I sent to Brian C. Just need your e-mail address. BTW, I'm all for reducing weight, but I can't imagine a savings of no more than a 2 to 4 pounds with a $250.00 'glass dash. Am I wrong? |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Big difference in weight,almost 18 pounds.The steering column itself weighs 14.It's and expensive part,but maybe BrianC has a way thru that.E-mail is.. cpd6200@yahoo.com I'll be e-mailing you both about the cars.
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Hi guys, i was wondering if any of you could send me pictures of the types of headers you were talking about before. (fenderwells, underchassis). My e-mail address is Zippo0007@hotmail.com I have transplanted a 440 /w 4 spd into a 90' Dodge Dakota for street use. I moved the motor back about 8 inches from the stock 4-cyl mounting. I used fiberglass mold mat to make the firewall. The only real problems were with foot room on drivers side, for all 3 pedals, and with exhaust. I have a set of stock center dump manifolds lined up right between the front cradle and the rear lower control arm bracket. I was really wanting to use headers, because the motor is pretty healthy and needs more breathing. A set of center dump, 'shorty' type headers WOULD work, however they are not make for mopars. If anyone had any ideas for me, on what type of headers might actually fit please let me know. Does anyone know the frame rail width for the body model (A, B, etc..) cars? I was trying to make a comparision for rail clearences, but couldn't find any information. Any help would be appreciated. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Hey Zip, have u looked at www.sandersonheaders.com yet? A bit pricey but they do make a center dump, block hugger shorty type header that may work for u...
Dana |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
BrianC, its been a while since you started this post, did you buy the proparts headers?. Howdid they fit and how much were they? I am interested in buying a set. Thanks for any info. Motorhead440
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Motorhead, e-mail me and I'll send you a jpeg of my headers.They are the same ones that this post has conversed about. cpd6200@yahoo.com
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Christopher, i was about to ask you next concerning that post. Motor
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
i used an old crusty set in my '65 A 451 combo. Only ones that would work on my particular setup. I sectioned out about 2 inches of the #8 tube so it wouldnt hit my inner tire but I have the narrow frame. I think they are a great header and you can purchase them from mazollini. Like 379 or so.
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
A Body, 440 Headers | E Miller | Performance Talk | 17 | 05-04-2004 08:05 AM |
Dynomax A, B body headers in an F body.... | Bill55AZ | Performance Talk | 3 | 02-07-2004 03:38 PM |
early b body headers/late b headers | dave571 | Performance Talk | 6 | 10-03-2003 11:35 PM |
A body headers | dave571 | Performance Talk | 2 | 07-12-2003 08:52 PM |
A-body SB headers | 76Duster | Rear Wheel Drive - Parts for Sale | 5 | 12-16-2001 12:20 AM |