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#1
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Ive got to much oil pressure. It is a 440 drag race motor. It has the Melling hi-volume with a Milodon pump cover going to an external line to the side of the pan. When I first started this thing up it had 100psi hot and went to 125 psi at 2000 RPM. I took the spring out had a shim in it, removed shim, still to high. So I put in a stock spring, got it a little lower. Where I am at now is I have shimed out the nut and found an even shorter stock spring. My pressure at 1500 is around 70 psi but at 3000 it climbs to around 90 psi. Ive taken the bypass valve out and looked at it also. Also running Kendall 20W-50. Any suggestions?
[This message has been edited by Challenger (edited June 15, 2000).] |
#2
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If all is oiling good leave it alone its fine now.Are your bearing clearances on the tight side? It will drop in time as things wear in . I usually use full grove bearings, this drops it abit . My buddies 440 is like yours its got 1/2 grove mains and big pressure 100 psi hot @ 6000 rpm , it runs low 12s ,its a street car , no problems . Mine with full grove runs in the mid 80 psi range hot @ 6000 .Buy the adjustable oil press kit , its a knob and lock nut that fits on your pump @ the relief spring so you can adjust the press while the engine is running . We both run 20 w 50 castrol.If you had a chev 454 you would be wondering where your oil press was, like 65 hot @ 6000 and maybe 20 psi at idle.
[This message has been edited by rat roaster (edited June 15, 2000).] |
#3
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rat roaster
I also have the full groove mains. Where can I get the adjustable pressure kit from? |
#4
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My 383 in my dart runs about the same oil pressure your talking about. I thought this was a good thing. My 383 pretty much pegs the gauge going through the lights. Of course it did a blow valve cover gasket one day and man what mess (the bolts came loose). Don't they say 10lbs per 1000 RPM. Well if you have have 40lbs at idle then add 10lbs per 1000 that takes it pretty high at 6000 RPM. I prefer too much as compared to my buddies phord that never has enough. I run regular 10w40 in my race car. You may try some synthetic 30 weight. I ran that last season, it held pressure nicely but cost too much for me.
------------------ Check out http://www.donet.com/bemiller/ and let me know what you think!! |
#5
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Since you have tried all kinds of different spring combinations without a lot of pressure change at high rpm, you may just not be able to bypass enough oil when needed. Consider going to a lower volume pump, as it will take less horsepower to run, heat the oil less, and the engine will not know the difference, as the extra you have now is just going through the bypass.
If you don't want to change pump, or need to hold volume at idle, take a good look at the bypass passage in the oil pump housing. I had problems with a very high flow pump in my 340 that was needed at idle, but too much at high rpm. The pump would regulate at 70 psi from 1500 to 3500 rpm and then climb to over 100 at 5500. I was able to reduce the climb to about 80 psi by "porting and polishing" the bypass passage and bypass piston. |
#6
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look under chrysler oiling systems @ this web site http://www.milodon.net/main.htm
pn # 21550 [This message has been edited by rat roaster (edited June 18, 2000).] |
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