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Okay Guys this is something I ran into last night and I thought this could be the source a quite a few timing problems and since we have seen a score of them lately hopefully this will be seen and help someone else.
Wel anyways last night I was buttoning the 383 back up and all I have left is the intake. Well I already had the distributor in just not bolted down. Well I rested my hand on it and it moved so I wiggled it back and forth and watched the drive and it was moving quite a bit like 1/8" a play in any direction. So I pulled out the drive and looked at the bushing. It is the aluminum Bushing that is installed as stock. The replacements are all Brass. Well the drive is also worn too. This is a block I had bought that was completely assembled and I assumed they had replaced everything. Well this was probably why my timing was not consistant. I think on several other peoples tiing problems this could have been the same cause yet it was never thought of or mentioned. These bushings are cheap and actually should be part of every rebuild that you do so that you don't wear out the drive and mess up your timing. Just replace it when you rebuild it can save a ton of headaches. Mine I think caused some of the detonation in my cylinders. In my other 383 which threw a rod I had replaced it but i never thought about it with this motor. Now even with a new bushing the Drive has play because of it being worn. I have some other drives I am going to check the play on them this week. I just wanted to let everyone know about this and hopefully some of you with timing problems check this and replace it especially if it has never been replaced as this can cause a major problem from such a minor part. Christian |
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bushing
good piont make sure your bushing is replaced . worn bushing were a big problem on early magum motors. (new series 92-93)
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#3
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CC have you seen the tool to expand the bushing once in place that Chrysler reccomends?How is anyone duplicating this process?once installed this tool is inserted from the bottom and it expands the lower portion of the bushing that extends below the hole it fits into in the block,Ive seen guys try all kinds of sealant,thread locker,etc only to have the bushings walk up and out,the most likely cause for a failed bushing is the dist base wasnt fully seated allowing the housing to ever so slightly move,usually this is the first place to collect any debris and the seat is very shallow so even just setting the timing can allow some garbage to get down in there,also did you know there is supposed to be a flat metal compression ring in the seat? they came that way from the factory but Ive never seen one aftermarket.........PRO...........
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I was told that in the early days you needed the special tool to seat the bushing firmly into the block but then Mopar decided to just produce a oversized outside diameter bushing and make it a light press fit. If you read a old service manual you were also supposed to ream out the bushing. The new ones are finished size and a good fit for the distributor.
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#5
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Pro
I have never heard of that with the bushing and have never seen it on a factory bushing as they all didn't take that much to get out. I have installed new ones that were tight to install and never moved. Christian BTW I posted this just mainly for information and to remind everyone to replace that bushing during a rebuild its cheap to replace when rebuilding but a pain if it becomes a problem later and needs replacing while engine is together. |
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