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#1
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Assembly lube...what do you use?...I need a suggestion for Moly rings and Ross pistons.....thanks
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#2
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Assembly lube:
I have always had good luck using Lubriplate (white grease) on bearings. I use Dexron ATF or mineral oil on cylinder walls and rings, not too much & none on top of the piston. I use the cam manufacturer's assy. lube on a new cam & lifters, & Lubriplate on a one that's already broken in. Lubriplate & ATF mixed make a real nasty, slippery mess. I have heard that Lubriplate, allowed to set in a motor for a long period of time can possibly plug up the oil passages, so I would suggest to not build any motor & shelve it for a long time. Every one else will have a different idea, but I have built lots of race & street motors with no problems. Main thing is to pre-lube with the oil pump before you fire up.
S/SS |
#3
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Assembly lubricant
I have heard so many people say to use "Lubriplate" (white grease) on bearings. The only reason I can see a person doing this is because they are not going to be starting this engine for some undetermined amount of time. Maybe that works. The people who suggested that method are also older than I and that was common many years ago. I have only used professional assembly lube, i.e. TRW, Childs & Albert, and other brand name types. Now this is for engines that will be fired up in a short time from the finish of the rebuild. I have seen some builders use ATF on rings, but with todays technology in honing techniques, profile honing and such I have used WD40 and achieve great ring seal immediately. Look at it this way, if oil manufacturers thought that mixing ATF and oil and white grease and whatever else together was a great assembly lube don't you think they would have marketed years ago? In all the engines I have built I use good motor oil (whatever brand the customer uses) moly on new hydraulic cams and GM's EOS additive for the break-in period. After the engine has run for thirty minutes (to break-in the cam and lifters) we run the vehicle up and down the road for a few required passes, yes some even like we stole it then change the oil and filter to the regular type. Have had 0 failures using this technique. Note: I am assuming you will pre-lube the engine immediately before firing it using a drill and not by turning it over with the starter as I have read on this website.
Good Luck! |
#4
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Nightri1 is 100% correct. Use the commercial assembly lube. It's fairly inexpensive and isn't as messy to use as most home brewed concoctions. (I've tried it both ways) I also agree on the GM anti-scuff additive. The guy that does my machine work builds a lot of very serious (expensive) race engines and he swears by the stuff. Also, you shouldn't even consider firing up a new engine without prelubing it first. A prelubing tool is only 10-15 bucks, an engine costs thousands. I consider it to be cheap insurance.
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#5
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Prelubing is a excellent idea it gets the oil flowing and you can look for trash that might have been missed coming out of the passages. Do you really need cam lube if you have a HV pump and you prelubed? When I built a VW many years ago the book said to dip the ringed pistons in 50/50 STP and the oil you are going to use!! It's a wonder I didn't foul the plugs.
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