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#1
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Wher is the least expensive place I can get bosch injectors part #0432-193-635? Is Bosch the best to get? Do I need to do anything else when changing injectors to get the best out of them?
Thanks 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SWB, 24 valve Cummins. 1969 Ply Barracuda Formula S 340 Auto |
#2
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JUst make sure you dont get reman injectors with new tips. Alot of guys ended up with those a while back. The prices were too good to be true, something like $40 easch I think. If it sounds too good to be true, they are probably reman.
Here is a list of what to do and how to do it. 19mm open end wrench, to loosen fuel lines running to the cylinder head 15mm socket, for the valve cover and rear engine hoist bracket 10mm socket, for the intake plenum 8mm socket, for injector hold-down brackets, and for fuel line brackets 8mm open end wrench, for hold-down and fuel line brackets not accessible with socket. A prybar & something for leverage The whole process is easier than it sounds. 1. Disconnect the intercooler hose to air intake plenum, then remove the plenum. Makes it much easier to reach cylinder #2. Put a rag in the hole to keep stuff out of the intake, and be careful of the heater grid & wiring. 2. Remove valve cover. First remove the rear hoist bracket from off the intake manifold. Then it is easy to remove the valve cover. Rock and slide it out toward the Driver's side. No need to remove the hose to the heater, will make a big mess with coolant that you dont need. When reinstalling, put the rear bolt in first because you can't once the valve cover is back in place. I left the hoist bracket off. 3. Break loose all the injector line nuts at the cylinder head. Then remove fuel line clamp at whatever cylinder you're working on, one at a time, start at #1, and work back. 4. Unscrew cyl. head fitting and pull back out of the way just far enough so that you can back out the gray aluminum fuel delivery nozzle. Gently prying on this with a small flatblade screwdriver will loosen it, then it slides out easily. Just pull back an inch, don't remove. Be careful to not let dirt/debris get into this fitting! 5. Remove the injector retaining bar. Only loosen the rear bolt, and remove the front bolt and it slides right out. 6. Using a 10mmx1.25 bolt from the air plenum, screw it into the injector to facilitate removal. Use something to gently pry on the bolt, to remove the injector. Make sure the copper washer comes out with it. 7. Install new injector, making sure the port is facing the fuel line. A dab of grease/Vaseline will hold the copper washer in place. Wipe some engine oil or Vaseline on the large O-ring and stick it in. Gently push the new injector in. Make sure the slot for the hold down bar is in the right location, if not, you can move the injector once its seated all the way by gently twisting it (put something in the slot to twist it) 8. Reinstall hold-down bar. Press fuel delivery nozzle back into place (reposition fuel line against it and push, it will reseat easily). Screw the fuel line nut back into the cyl. head, making sure it screws in easily without excessive resistance or binding. 9. Reinstall fuel line clamps. Clean up anything that may have gotten in the valvetrain area and intake. Reinstall valve cover, then intake plenum. 10. Fire it up! It will take several seconds of cranking and will run rough a couple seconds then smooth right out. It'll probably smoke a lot, but it clears out. 11. Check for leaks around the fuel lines, and you're done!! |
#3
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call deiesl dynamics in los vegas or bullydog for either companies stage 4's if you want the most out of them(125-150hp) you'll need a boost modual or small box(ez another 50hp) that has a built in modual. Then course you'll need a clutch or tranny work so go with something in the earlier stage and box to help things manage.
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#4
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I SMELL A BOMBING MISSION GOING ON HERE!!!
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