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  #1  
Old 03-16-2001, 12:56 AM
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71383bee 71383bee is offline
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Hi guys. I am a first time user so bear with me if I am a little slow. You guys sure seem to know your stuff, it looks like I came to the right place for advice. I am restifying my 71 383 Charger Super Bee and it is my first rebuild. The 383 is a 69 HP Block that has been bored .030 over and fitted with KB 162 Pistons. The crank got a 10/10 grind and the rods were re-coned. MP HV oil pump, new pan and pickup, stock windage tray, and the cam is a Comp Cams XE268H. Specs are 268/280; duration @ .050 is 224 and 230 with .477-inch/.480-Inch lift. Overlap is 110. Cam was installed at a centerline of 108. Heads are 69' 906's with 2.14/1.81 valves with valve job, resurface heads, port and polish, new springs, etc. Now my questions: 1. My engine builder told me that the block is ready to go, just drop in the distributor indexed to the #1 plug and slap it in, but I have always heard that the intermediate shaft slot should be parallel with cam. Mine is pointing at the #2 cylinder. Is this correct? 2. I am curious as to what head gasket to go with for a desired compression ratio of 9.5 to 1. I know that aftermarket gaskets are thicker than the stock steel gaskets. Which do I go with? 3. Headers. Are the TTi headers worth the cost? Should I try something a little cheaper? On top by the way is a stock '71 4 bbl intake with a factory rebuilt TQ #9045S I believe. 4. What water pump should I go with? I thought about a flowkooler, but know I am not so sure. I am sorry for the long post, but like I said I am a little new here. Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-16-2001, 05:16 AM
Joe Mad 73 Joe Mad 73 is offline
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Im not much help here. The only thing I can say without making an a$$ out my self is, position the intermediate shaft any way you want as long as the eng. and distb. both are at TDC and #1. Make sure you have enough room to move the distb. around when you time it. Most caps has a #1 marking on it. Make sure you use it, it's a lot easyer down the road. I have seen people just reposition the wires on the cap to get everything to line up, but that could be a pain later on. A big screwdriver will help you rotate the int. shaft around and pop it out and move it around to where it needs to be.
Later
Joe
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Old 03-16-2001, 08:35 AM
cdignition cdignition is offline
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Hi...with the #1 Cylinder at TDC, the slot in the intermediate shaft should be parallel with the cam. I would use the stock water pump...changing them out sometimes causes alternator mount difficulties(even worse with a steering pump or AC). For headers I would look at Dougs headers. WIth the lo block, clearance problems are reduced...spark plug boot issues still are there...Dougs headers fit the plugs nice.

What heads are u running..if Iron, use a .020 steel shim head gasket. Thats what came with it when it was new. If alum, u need composite type.
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Old 03-16-2001, 05:30 PM
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71383bee 71383bee is offline
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So I got one person that says the intermediate shaft position is not important, and one person says that it is important?

I am a little confused.

The heads are iron 906's with larger valves, springs, etc. I was thinking about the stock gaskets as well, but the machine shop said that the heads were re-surfaced. They did not tell me how much and since the car is mainly for cruising I guess it really did not matter, but if a gasket change can get my more ponies than I am interested. Any thoughts on what type of roller rockers and push rods I should buy?
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Old 03-16-2001, 05:42 PM
Maxwedge Maxwedge is offline
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ask PRO(an apt name I might add)
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  #6  
Old 03-16-2001, 11:24 PM
wyoming 64savoy wyoming 64savoy is offline
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By the book the slot should be paralell with cam, but it does not hurt anything if it's not as long as you get it timed right, if you want it paralel just pull it out turn engine just a little and put it back in. As far as roller rockers, they are optional with your combo, but if you feel you need them, Harland Sharps are excellent, Cranes are pretty good, Comp Cams Magnum excellent also.
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Old 03-17-2001, 04:18 AM
PRO PRO is offline
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Hey 71,1st your actually determing where #1 is going to be on the cap by indexing your oil pump drive,you can put it anywhere you feel like,as long as your at tdc and you put #1 on the cap where the rotor is pointing,better yet just go by the book and k.i.s.s.(keep it super simple)you realize if you lift it up out of its seat about an 1" you can rotate it to wherever.As far as your heads go,resurfacing usually only removes .004-.010,so this barely changes your comp,it really just keeps things flat.These pistons are good pieces but lack any real comp,there 9:1 with 85cc heads,go back to the machine shop and have a total of .030 removed,keep in mind this # will include what theyve already removed,and use the steel shim head gaskets(,020),this theorectically will put you at 9.4-9.5 but......most comp ratios come out lower than expected almost never higher.Remember if you mill .030 off the heads to add a set of .020 rocker shaft shims between the pedestals and shafts.This engine will hate your stock intake and rejetting that TQ will be a hassle,the flowcooler w/p is great as its only the pump impeller and retainer and not. the whole housing so it wont change any bolt holes.As far as headers I like the Dynomax heat coated ones for $250.......PRO.......
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Old 03-17-2001, 02:14 PM
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71383bee 71383bee is offline
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Hey Pro, thanks alot. After some of the previous posts I thought about it and realized that the slot position really does not change anything, it just keeps the distributor in a certain position. I thought my compression was on the low side (I used a compression calculator on my KB catalog!). I suppose I am not too concerned about it right now. I probably wont install the engine till summer. I got some time between now and then to acquire other things and money mainly before I slide the engine in. Don't recommend my manifold hey? Well I've been thinking about a MP M1 dp, but it looks just like the stock 71 piece. I am toying around with the idea of either a Edelbrock Performer or MP M1 single plane, but I really do want to keep it looking stock. I like the TQ, its a big block piece rebuilt from the factory. It came in a box! I got a sweet deal on it and it looks like it has never been run. It is defanately not a smog carb because they only vacum ports on it are for the advance and the PCV. I think it is a truck carb. I'll try it out and if it turns out to be a nightmare then I'll cet an Edelbrock or something. By the way, I am thinking about the Magnum roller rockers with Comps High tech pushrods. Sound Cool?
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Old 03-18-2001, 12:15 PM
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440 Jim 440 Jim is offline
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Since you already have the TQ and stock manifold give them a try first. They are easy to change later, if you want, and your engine is fairly mild so you might be happy with them.

Good Luck!
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