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#1
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I will start with what I have....
1973 Scamp w/ the following features: Engine- 1975 360 STD Bore Resized Stock Rods Reman Stock cast crank Windage tray Stock Oil pan and system speed pro 9.0 forged flat tops stock deck height Used thin head gaskets (about 1/2 of what a permatorque gasket is) 1970 340 heads (no milling)with 2.02/1.50 valves, 3 angle valve job, stock valves and ports, springs and rockers Edelbrock Torker single plane #3310 750 cfm vac sec holley MP .474 lift/.280 dur/108 centerline hydraulic cam double roller timin chain 1/5/8" headers 3" collectors chrome box MP electronic ignition kit Electric fan stock fuel line with high pressure holley mechanical pump Trans- stock 727 w/ medium fairbanks street/strip shift kit GER 3500 stall converter TCI Trans cooler Axle- 8.75 w. 4:30 Richmonds stock axles with green bearings Chassis/suspension- MP Pinion snubber MP rear drag shocks MP Super stock springs Sub frame connectors 90/10 front shocks Stock torsion bars Manual brakes Power steering Car weighs about 3100 lbs w/o driver Now...I don't know what size tire to use yet, and I am going to upgrade the fuel line to 1/2 w/ a holley blue pump, and have the distributor tweaked so it advanceds properly. I havn't run the car yet, but I want to run in the 12s. Given this info, does anyone have any idea if I am dreaming or is this a potential mid to low 12 second car? Any suggestions on a tire size w/o relocating springs? |
#2
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Sure,I think it's a 12 sec car.Use a 9x 28 slick.There have been some of the other guys that have posted have not said good things about the GER converter.I personally have never used their products,so I can't say one way or another.I use Turbo Action mainly because I have never had a problem with ANY of their products and they are here in Jacksonville.I think a increase in header size to 1 3/4" will benefit you greatly.I'd also mill the heads to equalize the cc volume.Sounds like a strong car to me!!
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#3
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Brian C there is a couple things I would change on your motor,cam,intake,headers.Do you have your car on the road yet?If you do i bet your not having much fun.See you have way to much stall for your current setup.Your motor probably doesnt pull much past 5500-6000 rpm.With that 3500 stall your not using all that bottom end torque that your cam delivers.I know this because i had almost the same motor in my duster.Difference being i had a 318.So what i would recommend is the following,Mopars 292/509 cam,M1 intake,and 13\4 inch headers.This combo will work with your stall and get you in the 12s.
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#4
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I didn't see a problem with the cam/converter combo.I ran a Street Hemi grind cam in our 70 Road Runner with a 3800 Turbo Action converter and it worked well.
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#5
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Christopher is correct, GER SUCKS! I would remove that converter immediately. Reason being, they bend the fins on the inside of the converter to gain much more stall without the cost. This will give you a full 3500 or more(thats the one I WAS using), but the converter will never grab and all the power will go into making heat and eventually destroy the clutches in the Tranny(thats what A&A said and I am living proof as it destroyed my trans in less than 500miles and when I called GER they said "Sorry not our problem".
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#6
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All my Mopar friend's also say that GER is evil!!
I run a a TCI 4500 10 inch (yes 10 inch) converter in my street Dart Sport. TCI I believe is the top of the line in this area. This converter started life as a 10 inch 3500 stall converter and was sent back to TCI to be re-vamped to stall at 4500 (which it does on the button behind my 12.5:1 517/292 cam 318C Motor). I even bought it used!! Anyway, TCi can do re-work like this, replace hubs, and just have an all around great products. As far as small cams and big converters go, look at some of the stock class guys running stock lift cams with 4500 (and higher) converters behind them. |
#7
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I appreciate all of the input! But now, I feel kind of nervous. This is the only area I cut a corner and tried to be economicalwith my car. I am nervous about using the GER. I have a rather large TCI cooler to keep the trans temp down. I have also a 3500 B&M that was used for a short time with a 440/727 combo.
Are they a better quality? Also, I hear alot about Turbo Action. What do their 3500 stall converters sell for? I may just stick w/ the B&M. |
#8
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You know what your parents used to tell you about cutting corners???? Seriously,If you already have a B&M I'd use it.I use Turbo Action mainly because they are here in my hometown.They are a little expensive but are also very good products.We are still using the 3800 converter that we bought in 1977.
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#9
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You should be able to run 12's with not problem. I ran a 70 duster for about 4 years in the 70's with almost the same combination. I never used the 1 3/4" headers, but it seems logical to me. My car I think could have been faster had I more money to spend, but being in the service at the time my buget wasn't the greatest. My car had a 340 cid is about the ony difference.
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#10
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The GER converter that I have looks rather small in daiameter. The B&M looks larger. This doesn't necessarily mean that the B&M has a lower stall speed does it?
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#11
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I think the saying today is that "size doesn't matter!!" No, stall speed isn't dependant on converter size.It's what is built inside.The big thing is that stall speed is dependant on the engine's torque output.Say you take the 3800 Turbo Action in my Dart and put it behind a 383.It will produce less stall as the 383 puts out less torque than a 440.Same thing if you bolt it up behind a 360,the stall will be different.
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#12
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I've got to go along with the rest of the crew, that GER (George E. Reynolds) is trash!!!!! That B&M has it over the GER like ice dream has it over manure. I made the mistake of buying one for my old big block pick up and the thrust washer in the nose cone went south and filled the trans with metal shavings after about 1500 miles. Same on the guts, when local convertor manufacturer Hughes split the GER while I watched, the fins were pinched to try to increase stall. JUNK BIG TIME!!!!!!
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#13
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Old hippie,
What did they(GER) say when you asked them about there converter being junk? I suspect the same thing they told me...."not our problem". You know for a while I thought about filing a law suit, but then I just figured I would go on a crusade to stop everyone I can from buying one. Thats worth more to me than my $900 trans and converter. I really hate to hear that someone else has had this problem but I am not surprised. You can't think that a transmission blowing up at less than 500 miles is "an honest mistake" in my world its called incompetence, which the mechanics are. Anyway if any of you have had this problem with them voice your displeasure and make sure we can keep fellow Mopar people from using their products. Its the least we can do. Sorry for the rant everyone, Nick(still bitter!) BTW if anyone wants or is going to sue, let me know and i'll join in! :-) |
#14
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I spoke with some other folks on different chat boards. Some claim that the GER was a good coverter. I was also impressed with the 5 year warranty they said they stood behind.
But judicially, I would lean towrds them being a substandard of the industry according to the majority opinion of you all. The trans that I have is not new. Never been rebuilt, so that adds to my reluctance. GER reccomended the stall speed at 3500 for my application. Is a 440 converter internal or externally banced? Would I have to rebalance the converter to use behind my 360? |
#15
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Hi Everyone!
Yes, you do have to balance a converter that is to be used by a 360 motor. Another way you could accomplish the same thing is by going with a B&M plate. It bolts to your crank and is already balanced. This means you can use any converter that is not already balanced for a 360 motor. |
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