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#1
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ok the motor is torqued down to proper specs, oil pump all cinched down, but when i go to put the windage tray back on it came to me that i don't know the torque specs to button down the windage tray.is there a torque spec? it is a 1974 360 out of a challenger that i am pretty sure has a stock windage tray?also what kind of oil do i put in it for the break in period and then what do i run after the break in period. i just want to be sure. thanks
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#2
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Those are like 1/4 20 bolts, right? I wouldnt go past about 100 in/lb, think of them as valve cover bolts, may want to put some loc-tite on them and snug them. youll twist these off easy if not careful.
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#3
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68Valiant,
I'll take your oil question. 1st of all DON'T use synthetic oil for break-in. Period. No discussion & no arguments. Without going into any detail, just understand that many cam manufacturers specifically warn against use of synthetic oils during break-in. You have been warned. Considering where we live & the mild temperatures, straight 30 weight is all you ever need. Break-in with 30W. Normal break-in procedure, 20 minutes 2000 to 2500 RPM. After break-in drain oil, replace filter, & add straight 30 weight. Keep below 4000 RPM for the 1st 500 miles, & vary the engine speed. I'll expect to see you cruising up & down Lawrence Expressway some time. :-) |
#4
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yea i will be on the expressway! same with san thomas expressway too. so it's just straight 30 weight? not 5w 30? cool thanks.what you drive if you don't recognize me i'll say hey to you. also what filter should i use? does it matter?
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#5
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Yep straight 30 weight (not 5w-30 & not 10w-30) just plain old 30 weight. I use Castrol. The filter doesn't really matter. I use fram.
You'll recognize my car by its tail-lights :-) 69 R/T! Actually 68Valiant, I do drive those roads occasionally but I rarely brake the speed limit. I need to save the gas for the long drive to the track! Good luck |
#6
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It's a good idea to use nylock nuts on that tray, or locktite, take your pick, as afr as oil filters they do matter, best are Balwin, Purolater, a Fram is a cheap made filter, if you don't think so waste $10 and cut apart a Fram and either of the two above, it'll be a long time before you buy another fram.
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#7
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I may try that wyoming.
However, considering my oil & filter get changed after every 2 trips to & from the track (about 170 miles round trip) I hardly think it will make any difference at all. It may make a difference for those who are less conscience & perhaps even negligent about oil & filter changes. Thanks for the tip. |
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