318 vs 360 water pump?

[klonestar]

Im having trouble getting a water pump for my newer 360 (mid 80's) to fit into a 66' Coronet without buyig a new radiator. The 318 comes out on the correct side but the impeller sticks out a little farther than the one for the 360. The 360 bolt holes line up but the input is on the passengers side and I need it on the drivers side.I think I can get enough clearance by adding an eatra gasket to the pump and I can use the 318 (which has a larger dia. impeller anyway ,so would run a little coler.)
Anyone have other ideas or info?
Also anyone know if my 318 alternator and ps pump and brackets are gonna work on the 360? I had to get a different fuel pump. Are my 318 pulleys still gonna work?
This was supposed to be a easy (haha) exchange, but im running into more probs every day. I didnt think this was an uncommon swap, but I cant seem to find much for local tech help around where I live.Thanks!

[Duster440]

i have an 82 318 and have no problems interchanging any of the parts to my 74 360.
i have changed the pulleys and alternator from the 318 to the 360 , this swap should have been pretty routine.

[caveman]

Sometime in the mid 70's they swiched the water pump hose around(I think 74).You either have to by the pump for the car,or change the radiator.My money would be to get the correct pump,it's probably only $20 or so.They at some point changed the length on the pump also.

[This message has been edited by caveman (edited June 20, 2000).]

[5thAve]

When I did my 360 swap in the 88 ('79 360) I used all the accessories that were already on the car. They should all bolt up fine.

When I got a new water pump for the 360 they had one for the 360 and another for the 318. For some reason the 318 ones were the regular silver meta color while the 360 ones were painted blue (yet the blue is darker than the regular chrysler blue).

[six pack]

Pretty sure your going to have to swap the
318 timing cover as well as the old style cast iron water pump to get your swap to work properly and look correct.

Wait a minute, if you had an old wide block 318 I'm not sure the cover will interchange, guess you'll have to post more info or e-mail.

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70 challenger r/t conv
98 V-10 Q/C SWB 4X4
72 383 swinger

[T748]

Poly (wideblock)timing covers are the same with later years.water pump too.

[DartGT66]

And you don't have to change the timing cover, the cast iron pump bolts to the newer aluminum timing cover, and vise verca.

[klonestar]

My 66' Coronet w/66' torqueflite tranny w/wideblock 318 isnt matching up to much at all to my newer 80's 360.
So far i've had to change the fuel pump, water pump,exhaust and intake,carb (because of 2 to 4 barrel), torque converter (which I found a weighted flex plate instead), kickdown linkage. To the 360 i have added a cam,hp intake and headers, heads,holley 650 dbl pumper,etc..
The 66' 318 water pump matches everything on the newer 360 and also matches my existng radiator. My worry is the clearance between the inside of the water pump impeller to the timing cover. The 318 had about (guessing) a 3/8" indention where the 360 only has about a 1/4" indention.I held the old used water pump up to the 360 and spun the impeller with ok clearance, but the old partial gasket was still on the old pump. Im worried that when I get the new 66' 318 pump and bolt it tight to the 360 that it very well might hit the timing cover.I can glue up two gaskets to help a little but still not sure thats gonna work. The 360 water pump does stick out about 1 1/2 to 2 inches further that the 66' 318 pump but that wouldnt be a prob.as the 318 uses a 2" spacer I could eliminate. It appears they dont make a 360 waterpump with the input on the drivers side where I need it.
Also the 318 impeller does stick out of the pump housing approx. 1/8" more the the 360.
This all really sucks cause I did try to do my homework before taking on this project to try to make sure it would be a basically bolt in swap.I spent my extra funds on better parts for the mill itself as I was planning on not having to buy a lot of other stuff to make it all fit. Now I got a mill thats not working (yet) and running out of funds to make all the necessary changes that I wasnt supposed to need to make.The engine builder "The Engine Factory" has been of no help at all, even though I asked them specific questions (prior to buying their engine) to make absoutely sure it would be an easy swap, and they assured me it would. Now its more like "gee im sorry I was wrong but were not gonna do anything about it"!
So far im out an extra 700-1000 denero to try to get this thing to work.Im still waiting for the chrome valve covers to show up as the ones they put on were severly deted when they chained the engine up to box it.And to think they went ahead and shipped it that way!
As for "The Engine Factory" I asked here and other places if anyone knew about them one way or the other and got no replys so figured no one knew about them. Well my vote is to stay clear of them if anyone else asks!

[mopartodd]

Klonestar. I'm not sure this will help you but, a waterpump on a "69" 318 has the inlet to the pump on the drivers side. If you get one for a 318 w/ac you get the extra cooling capacity. good luck.

[klonestar]

Well I ended up using a new stock 318 water pump. It cleared the impeller ok. I also added a flex fan to help the cooling.
Now I finally got the new mill fired up and it appears to heat up VERY quickly as compared to the old 318. Should I go ahead and add a fan shroud? I will probably make one up out of sheet metal as the new 360 doesnt sit in the stock place so I doubt a stock shroud would fit and work properly.
I have the large stock radiator. I think its 26 quart size. Im using a 160 lb. thermostat with a 16 lb. rad. cap.
Im real concerned about keeping the new mill cool enough as I live in a tourist town so get lots of stop and go traffic use.

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[turbododge]

I don't know how the newer small block water pumps are setup, but on the older ones, you get more flow out of the non-AC pumps because the factory used different pulleys to spin the fan faster for AC. To prevent cavitation they reduced the pump output. Non-AC pumps are made to run at 1 to 1 ratio.

I also think you will get much better cooling from a thermal clutch fan than a flex fan.

[This message has been edited by turbododge (edited July 17, 2000).]

[Dart]

Flex fan is also a horsepower robber, you should go with the clutch fan set up.

I ran my 360 with the '66 318 water pump and had no problems with clearance. I used a radiator out of a '66 B-body. Spacing was a little different, but worked in the end.

Another trick is to have them change the outlet on the lower radiator tank. Any good radiator shop should be able to handle that without any problems and it shouldn't cost more than $35.

[klonestar]

Is the difference in cooling with the clutch fan enough than the flex fan to warrant tossing out a new flex fan (cheap $36) and buying a clutch fan? If so, then its worth it to me to have a cooler mill and better protection for it!
Glad to hear that the 66' non AC water pump is better as thats what I got. I was wondering if I should have got a AC pump instead. Glad I didnt!
I my last post I made an error. I stated my radiator was 26 quart. NOT!!!! Its a 26" wide which is the largest for stock mopar for that car.
With the new mill, my fan sits farther back from the radiator that the stock mill. If/after I change to the clutch fan and I still have the same or more distance to the rad. should I add a longer spacer to get the fan closer to the cooler? This will also change the size of the shroud needed (in depth) to get to the
fan when I make it. Thanks again!
For better or worse, its gonna be back on the road next week!! Been down for about 4 months now!

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[Dart]

It is not so much the difference in cooling as the loss of power. The flex fan will also make your motor work harder and increase its operating temperature. I would spend the money on the clutch style and ditch the flex fan.

Your fan should be about 1" from the radiator to get max flow across the radiator. The clutch fan will be longer and should sit closer to the radiator. You may not need a spacer with the clutch fan.

[klonestar]

Thanks Dart!
Is there a perticular fan that works best with the clutch set up?
Can I use the flex fan with the clutch? I see the "thermal" clutch sold separately.Thanks again.

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[klonestar]

Thanks Dart!
Is there a perticular fan that works best with the clutch set up?
Can I use the flex fan with the clutch? I see the "thermal" clutch sold separately.Thanks again.

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