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#1
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Ok on my 67 R/t with 440, i got some cheap 100 dollar cyclone headers and they just suck, I cant get them to stop leaking, tried EVERYTING. copper gaskets, aluminun collector gasktes, brought it to the muffler shop...no go.....so what headers DO NOT leak, I am going to buy some but I need to know what ones are shitty....my dad teases me too much when my car sounds like pssst psst pst...thanks matt
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#2
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Hey I got an idea.................
Jegs sells these things called "stage 8" header bolts. They have locking rings and c clips. not only do they look cool, but the darn things really work!
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#3
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The new tti headers are awsome!! I have a set of 2" header for a 440 Dart and the flange must be about a 1/2" thick. They just came out with a set of 1 3/4" headers for steet cars and I'm sure they would not leak.
Check out Ron Olson Dodge in Neb. for the best prices. |
#4
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i would love tti's to match my tti 3" exhaust BUT i cant afford the 500+ for them right now...has anyone used hooker comps? or dynomax with jetcoat?
thanks matt |
#5
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Sorry to hear of the problem. That always blows
A lite torqueing of the bolts to 15 lbs. max has always worked. Headman has always worked fine for me. |
#6
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I have a mystery set of headers that I got in a swap deal -- they were right for my application ('73 big block Satellite). Anyway, I used the stock exhaust studs and fine thread nuts with lock washers, and the Mr. Gasket UltraSeal Premium header gaskets on my 440. It was a tight squeeze to get the headers over the studs ( I moved the steering box over without disconnecting the Pitman arm, removed the intermediate shaft from the steering column, and the column shifter cross shaft, as well as the spark plugs and wires. But there was no antifreeze pouring on me from the back hole, and I only had to retorque them every couple of days the first two weeks or so. From then on I've been leak free.
Good Luck Ben 440 |
#7
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I AM CURRENTLY USING A SET OF HOOKER SUPER COMPS ON MY 74 CHARGER 440, AND MY DAD RUNS A SET OF HOOKER COMPS ON HIS 74 CHARGER 400 SE, HE (MY DAD) JUST BLEW A FLANGE GASKET LATE LAST YEAR AFTER 2 YEARS OF USE AND MY SUPER COMPS ARE STILL RUNNING THE CHEAPO CARDBOARD GASKET SUPPLIED WITH THE HEADERS 5 YRS. AGO.
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#8
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Here's a no fail method for getting headers to seal to the head. I've used this on every set of headers I've ever installed and they have never failed to seal.
Prior to installing the headers soak the gaskets in water for 24 hrs. What this does is swell the gaskets which in turn helps them seal around every imperfection when they are installed and the bolts are snugged up. The only gaskets I've ever used are the cheap looking ones that come with every type of header set. The headers on my '68 Valiant bracket car have been installed since '94 and the headers on my '72 Challenger have been installed since the early '80s. Neither one has ever leaked. HV |
#9
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thanks for all the advice guys
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#10
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Hedmans work fine for me
I've had Hedmans on my RR for about 5 years now, never had to tighten 'em except for when I installed them and have never had any leaks at all. Of course now I have to take the driver's side one off... just blew up my starter and I am hoping that when I re-install the header it will remain trouble free. I didn't do anything special to put them on the first time.
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#11
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Here's one more trick to try with your cheap headers. Cut the mounting flange between each of the pipes, so you have 4 seperate pipes. If there's any warpage at all on either the head or the header flange, this method works great.
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#12
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cut it
Our drag car did the same thing with a set of used hooker super comp just cut the header plate so the tubes less the middle ones aren't hooked together.
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#13
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CUT THE FLANGES BETWEEN THE HEADERS AND USE PERMATEX ULTRA COPPER ON THE GASKETS!
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#14
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You might want to call John at Ron Olsen Dodge before you say that you can't afford the TTIs. Just got a set for my Challenger from them and the savings was substantial. A new set of super comp Hookers will cost $275, for a little more you can get the nickel TTIs.
Monte Smith |
#15
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I know the TTIs are superior, but how superior? and why? If im going to spend that much on headers, i want to be sure i dont ever scrape them on the ground when i hit a bump like all the others do. Does anyone have them on an A-body? Also, how much cheaper are they at Olsen Dodge? Do you need a mini starter for them?
Heres the web site if anyone wants to look. www.ttiexhaust.com Also, who makes headers for W-2 heads? |
#16
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I know the TTIs are superior, but how superior? and why? If im going to spend that much on headers, i want to be sure i dont ever scrape them on the ground when i hit a bump like all the others do. Does anyone have them on an A-body? Also, how much cheaper are they at Olsen Dodge? Do you need a mini starter for them?
Heres the web site if anyone wants to look. www.ttiexhaust.com Also, who makes headers for W-2 heads? |
#17
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I like the dynomax thermal coated,they have a 3/8" thick flange that will never warp,but if you can get tti's for $275 thats a sure bet......PRO......
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#18
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Does anybody out there know if the TTI's make more power than the Hookers? Not crazy about the 1 5/8 pipe at the head.
I'm looking to make some good HP. |
#19
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From what I have heard from others and articles in Mopar Magazines the TTI headers use thick flanges to reduce the chance of having the header gaskets leak.
It was also reported that TTI uses thicker tubing for the pipes. The thicker tubing makes the headers alot quieter than "race" headers, but they weigh more than the then the race headers. The steped tube design should help widen the torque curve and 1-5/8" is still larger than the stock exhaust valve. The only problem I have heard is from a friend who is installing them on a FI Magnum 360 in a Dart. He mentioned that the Magnum heads are just slightly different from the older heads, but I'm not sure what the problem was. I know he is uding the headers so they will work. |
#20
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HEADERS
ttI makes headers for W-2 heads. Ordered a set for a customer today.
John Cambridge Parts Manager Ron Olsen Dodge 800-397-8401 olsendodge@att.net or jfcam@aol.com www.olsendodge.com |
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