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i just aquired my 73 Dodge Charger... it's currently housing a 727 torque flight with some jacked up linkage .. some one moved the shifter from the column to the floor with a B&M floor shifter.. but.. the linkage is jacked up bad.. if i leave teh shift linkage on it attached to the thottle when i floor it it forces the shifter to upshift instead of down shift.. so. .i took off the linkage going to the throttle .. now however it runs great but wont bother to down shift if i floor it .. if its already in 3rd.. even at 25 mph.. she just guts up and roars.. the power is sufficient to pull her through the low part but not as efficiently as down shifiting of course.. now. i can manually reach up and put her into second she shifts tight and fast.. but putting her back into drives is tricky.. as thier is no reverse gate protecting from a mishap..
soo.. ive got this 727 trans.. that shifts tight and works great.. linkage i barely understand.. and to tell you the truth.. i like manuals.. id prefer a 4spd.. the the gear heads on my hill swear bye the 727torqueflight.. I would certainly appreciate comments and opinions... Thanks |
#2
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Try putting in a Turbo Action "cheetah" manual Valve body, It'll be just like driving a manual without a clutch. B body cars are tricky to launch quickly with 4 speeds and they are notorious for breaking motor mounts (I know, I have owned 1 383 and 1 440 4 speed Charger)
I love 4 speeds too, but the Cheetah makes a big block even more fun to drive IMO. Wize |
#3
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It sounds like the throttle pressure linkage is out of adjustment or assembled incorrectly. It can severely effect how the transmission shifts (or not shift) Here's a pic of the linkage and instructions on how to adjust it.
1) Make sure the engine is warmed up, the choke is off and the carb is at curb idle. 2) Hold the transmission lever(#11 in the pic) firmly forward against its stop while performing adjustments during the next few steps 3) Put a 3/16" diameter rod (#9 in pic) into the holes provided in the upper bellcrank (6) and lever. 4) Adjust the length of the intermediate transmission rod (#10) by means of threaded adjustment (#2) at upper end. The ball socket (#2) must line up with the ball end with slight downward effort on the rod. 5) Assemble ball socket (#2) to ball end and remove the 3/16" rod (#9) from the upper bellcrank and lever. 6) Disconnect the clip, washer and return spring (#13) then adjust the length of the carburetor rod (#12) by turning the threaded adjustment (#1) until the rear end of the slot touches the carb linkage stud without exerting any forward force on the stud. 7) Reattach all of the springs and clips and check for freedom of movement by grasping the linkage rod (#12) and moving it completely rearward. Let it return, making sure it goes fully forward without binding. Good Luck! |
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